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------ ---Black Sail Trek




Black Sail Trek - 25 August - 1 Sept
with Diana


We all arrived in the rain at Keswick youth hostel on 25th. One woman had been delayed by a catalogue of problems, including some children playing in the railway tunnel on the way. After a chat about the forthcoming trek, we all went out for a quick drink before bed.


26th August

Cat Bells across Derwent Water from the Keswick Launch.A beautiful blue sky greeted us in the morning, and we set off by ferry across Derwent Water to climb Cat Bells - the distinctive fell on the other side of the lake from Keswick, and the first part of our day's journey to Borrowdale.

Climbing Cat Bells.



Cat Bells was busy, but even the number of other walkers couldn't diminish the views - which were crystal clear.


Reaching the top of Cat Bells.Made it!


Heading down from Cat Bells towards Grange.We had an early lunch just beyond the summit, and then made our way down towards Grange. Stopping at a tea room there was probably a mistake - given that it was Bank Holiday weekend!

Walking up beside Castle Crag, with Derwent Water in the background.



We left after a drink, and continued on through the woods to Castle Crag, and then beyond it into Borrowdale.


Borrowdale from the Allendale Ramble.Climbing a stile to descend into Borrowdale.


Descending towards the youth hostel.

This afternoon stretch to the youth hostel was pure magic, with slanting light and beautiful views of a different kind.




27th August

Walking towards Seathwaite and the start of our uphill journey.One of the group decided this morning that the walk to Black Sail would be too much for her - and that she'd prefer to meet us in Buttermere. Sadly we set off towards Seathwaite without her, knowing that she'd found the previous day a struggle, and respecting her decision.

Sour Milk Gill waterfall.


From Seathwaite we climbed steadily through the bracken, stopping only to enjoy the waterfalls on the way.


Sheep being rounded up on the hillside.While we rested at the top of this first steep 'up', all the sheep from the fell were herded past us by clever working dogs.

Continuing up the valley towards Green Gable.



We then continued on up the valley towards Green Gable.


The view from the top of Green Gable looking towards Buttermere and Ennerdale.After a steady ascent, we reached the top of Green Gable by 1pm. The views in all directions were stunning, including the view down to Black Sail in Ennerdale below.

Lunching on the top of Green Gable.





We lunched in one of the shelters there before starting our descent.



View of High Crag from the little tarn on the top of Haystacks.The day was so beautiful, that we decided on the longer way down via Haystacks.

The scrambly section of Haystacks.






The descent off Haystacks is scrambly in places - with impressive views of Buttermere below.


Sitting outside Black Sail Hut.Heading down into Ennerdale, we soon reached Black Sail Hut - a welcome sight at the end of a long day.



Evening light on Great Gable and Kirk Fell.


This youth hostel is the only building in the upper Ennerdale valley. It is a former shepherd's bothy, and is one of the most charming and special of youth hostels, with one of the most dramatic locations in the Lake District.


4 of the 6 different curries that night.Pete, who's the warden there, had cooked us 6 different curries (4 of them vegetarian), followed by a fresh fruit salad with 10 different kinds of fruit!



A bonfire in the evening at Black Sail.



We'd collected wood for a bonfire when we arrived - and sat chatting round the fire for most of the evening.




28th August (Day 3)

Early morning sky over Kirk Fell.Another beautiful sky greeted us the next morning. Today we were to walk to Buttermere - and decided to do so via the High Stile ridge between the 2 valleys.

Resting on the top of Seat - the first up of the ridge.



We walked back up to the lowest point of the ridge - Scarf Gap, and then ascended Seat on a beautiful stone-laid path.


Pausing on the way up High Crag.

Once past Seat, we continued on up High Crag. The steep stone-laid path becomes scree near to the top - as this photo shows. You can also see the Upper Ennerdale valley in the distance below.


Looking towards Ennerdale from High Crag.


Needless to say we had a good rest at the top of High Crag, and some fabulous views!


Great Gable and Kirk Fell (and Scarfell Pike and others) from High Crag.Fleetwith Pike and Dale Head from High Crag.


Looking down to Buttermere from the path to High Stile.After a while, we walked on along the ridge to High Stile and Red Pike.

Walking along the ridge to Red Pike.

Paddling in the stream above Scale Force waterfall.


To finish the day, we descended from Red Pike via Scale Force waterfall - stopping for a paddle on the way.




Crummock Water from the path back to Buttermere.

Crummock Water was beautiful in the late afternoon light. We had a drink at the Bridge Hotel in Buttermere, and then walked on to the hostel just outside the village - our home for the next 3 nights.




29th August

Resting on Low Ling Crag - on the far side of Crummock Water (Heather Pleasance)A gentler day all round today!

Footbridge over Rowantree Beck. (Heather Pleasance)




Heather arrived to help offer a choice of walks while we're in Buttermere.


Beautiful rowan tree over Rowantree Beck. (Heather Pleasance)Her walk was a circuit of Crummock Water - detouring briefly into the lovely valley behind Rannerdale Knotts.

Many wonderful trees - had to be hugged. (Heather Pleasance)




There were many wonderful trees along the route - and some just had to be hugged!



Walking up Knott Rigg on grass from Newlands Hause.The higher walk was to ascend Knott Rigg and Ard Crags, returning along the Sail Beck valley.

Walking from Knott Rigg to Ard Crags along the ridge.

Walking along the top of Knott Rigg with Newlands Valley and Cat Bells in the back ground.

It was a wonderful heather-clad ridge, with Newlands Valley to our right, and the higher fells of Causey Pike and Sail to our left.


Resting with a view on the way down.Newlands Valley.



Sleeping women at lunch time!!Our contouring path disappeared on us on the way back, and we had to use another with more 'up' on the other side of the beck. Everybody collapsed in the grass after lunch!

Walking back down Sail Beck valley into the sun.





The walk back down Sail Beck valley was simply magical in the afternoon sun.


Looking across to Knott Rigg.Pausing by a fast running stream.Finshing with a grassy path back into Buttermere.




30th August

Crummock Water and the side of Mellbreak.We had our first wet start this morning, though it fined up later.

The women who'd taken it easy yesterday, climbed Mellbreak today with Heather - the steep sided fell to the south of Crummock Water.

Walking around Crummock Water.


The rest of us walked around Crummock Water, with a lunchtime stop at the pub in Loweswater!


Crossing a watery bog on stepping stones. One woman went in here!We all set off around Crummock Water together. Our perfectly good path had turned into a bog overnight!

Contemplation by the shore of Crummock Water. (Heather Pleasance)

Rannerdale Knotts across Crummock Water.The sun returned mid-morning - changing everything.

Pausing as the sun came out.

A rope swing was irresistible.A rope swing was highly inviting - but unfortunately resulted in a sprained ankle on jumping down.




Looking up at Mellbreak.



While some of us hobbled to the pub as a preliminary to walking back round Crummock Water, Heather set off with 4 of the group to tackle Mellbreak.


Pausing on the way up Mellbreak.The views from the path up, and from the top, were stunning.

The view from Mellbreak.






Buttermere and Crummock Water (and surrounding fells) from Mellbreak.

Lunch on the top of Mellbreak.After lunch on the top, they made their way down a grassy path to Scale Force waterfall, and so back to Buttermere.

In preparation for the big walk back over Robinson tomorrow, the evening was spent playing Jenga rather than going to the pub!




31st August (Day 6)

Climbing up the steeper section of Robinson.Today was our last full trekking day - and it was a day full of contrasts.


Low cloud on Robinson as we climbed higher.







Rain in the first few minutes; then low cloud which kept dispersing as we approached; then brilliant sunshine between the clouds.



Cloud lifting off Whiteless Pike to reveal Crummock Water beyond.Our route back towards Keswick was over Robinson - the large fell behind where we had been staying in Buttermere.


First lunch on top of Robinson at 11.30



Robinson is the start of a long ridge to Dale Head - leaving us the option of descending from there to Borrowdale, or continuing on towards Cat Bells.


Looking down to Buttermere and across to the High Stile range.As we walked along the ridge, we saw some of the fells we had climbed over the previous days.



The back of Hindscarth from the Dale Head ridge.



Enthusing about glacial features while looking down Newlands Beck!

Dalehead Tarn.We had our 'second lunch' on Dale Head - looking across to Green and Great Gable, Scafell, Bowfell, and Glaramara to name a few!


The back of Dale Head from the path up High Spy.



Then we descended steeply to Dalehead Tarn, and on towards High Spy (having decided we weren't ready to go down yet).


Hindscarth from our sunbathing spot on High Spy.On High Spy, we did a spot of sun bathing - or just sat looking around at views in all directions.

Sunbathing on High Spy.

Descending down Maiden Moor with Derwent Water ahead.Finally we dragged ourselves away and headed along Maiden Moor to descend to Derwent Water.

The Keswick Launch arriving to take us across the lake.



It had been a wonderful walk - but we were all well ready for a lift across the lake to Derwent Water youth hostel.


We spent our last evening together sitting around in the lounge with a glass of wine, chatting and writing up this page!




1st September

The whole group outside Derwent Water youth hostel.For our last walk from Derwent Water to Keswick we detoured via Ashness Bridge, Surprise View, and Lodore Falls - just because they were all close at hand.

3 women took it easy instead - catching the Keswick Launch around the lake, and then meeting us in Keswick.


The waterfall behind the youth hostel.First we took the path past the youth hostel waterfall to Ashness bridge. Skiddaw was just coming out of cloud as we got there.

Ashness Bridge.

Surprise View - looking over Derwent Water.A little further up the hill we reached Surprise View - a favourite view over Derwent Water.

Negotiating a river crossing.





After a rest in the sun at the start of the Watendlath valley, we headed down the path towards the Lodore Falls, and then along the shore to Keswick.


Descending the wooded path to the Lodore Falls. Walking along Derwent Water to Keswick.


Cafe latte at the Pedlars Cafe.Our fine weather deteriorated as we reached Keswick, and we sat having a final drink of hot chocolate and cafe latte together in fine drizzle!

Clearly, time to go home - though we all found it hard to say goodbye.



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The paintings on this site are Rosie Jeffries or Sarah Burt. The Lake District Map is Autoroute. The photos are and curtesy of whoever they are attributed to. The rest of the contents and photos areWalkingWomen.