Finally, we set off through town to get taxis to Therisso - a lovely old village in the foothills of the White Mountains, driving there through a splendid gorge.

From here we made for Lakki - via the sleepy villages of Zouvra and Meskla.

We stopped for lunch at a little taverna in Zouvra - and shared omelettes, greek salads and fresh orange juice under a mulberry tree.

Then we continued on our way, dropping into another valley towards Meskla.

Meskla church was beautiful. We had ice creams at Meskla taverna, and then started up the hill through olive groves to Lakki.

Lakki is a pretty village perched on a saddle between the hills. Here, we were warmly welcomed at the Kri Kri taverna for the night, and ate out overlooking the hills.

No one slept very well as the village church clock struck each half hour through the night, and it was a sleepy bunch that climbed onto the early Omalos bus - after Maria served us fresh orange juice, coffee, yogurt and honey, mmmm!

Today we were to hit the mountains proper - climbing Gingilos, and then staying at the Kallergi refuge high above the Samarian Gorge.

It was a beautiful day for it!

Gingilos is the mountain that stands impressively 830m above Xiloskalo, the top of the Samarian Gorge. We had wonderful views down into the gorge all day.

Our path was hugely varied - starting with a well contoured track above Xiloskalo, passing stunning rock arches and pinacles along a more level section, climbing a scree slope, and then finshing with a scramble to the top.

After the pinacles, a rough but well-contoured path then took us up a steep scree slope to a saddle.

Then came the scrambly section - all very manageable but more time consuming.

Finally we reached the summit cairn - and had the White Mountains spread out before us across the gorge, some still with patches of snow.

While 3 women stayed at the summit cairn with the packs, there was a further possible scramble across the rocks to a second top above the gorge.

A timed group photo seemed essential at this point!

After lunch near the cairn, we made our way back down - enjoying the views south west to the sea down the Tripitis gorge, and stopping for a long laze and sunbathe near the Linoseli spring!

Back at Xiloskalo we rested and had cold drinks at the taverna there. Then we slowly climbed the remaining 430m to the Kallergi refuge.

Kallergi is an amazing refuge perched above the gorge across from Gingilos. All water is carried up by car along a shepherds road, and a generator supplies the electricity.

Our goal for the next day was Melindaou - seen here coloured pink by the setting sun. That night some of us slept out under the stars!

Another big day today: the Melindaou circuit - one of the best ridge walks in Crete, overlooking the Samarian Gorge.

We started along the shepherd's road leaving Kallergi perched on the cliff behind us. Then we reached our ascent onto Psari (Fish), the first hill of the ridge. Gingilos formed a dramatic backdrop as we zigzagged steadily upwards.

At the ridge we took a well earned break - and could see the sea at the end of the Samarian Gorge.

The views down into the gorge and back towards Gingilos were stunning.

Continuing on along the ridge we had Melindaou before us, still with patches of snow visible in gullies from a big fall of late snow in March.

After Mavri ('Black') - the next hill along the ridge - we reached snow on the saddle before Melindaou's dramatic stratified cliff.

Alpines flowered everywhere - briefly - as the snow receded.

While one woman remained at the saddle to take photos, the rest of us continued on up, pausing often to enjoy the view.

Our efforts were rewarded by a glorious view of the White Mountains from the top as we took a sunbathing lunch. A few women also tobogganed on a patch of snow!

Finally, we headed back to the saddle and then completed the circuit down a section of the E4 (a long distance path across Crete).

More snow fun in gullies enlivened our descent, and we arrived back to the refuge tired - but well satisfied with our efforts.

4 of us slept out that night, watching for shooting stars as we fell asleep!

Today we left the refuge to head down the Samarian Gorge to the south coast. To give the coach tours a head start we allowed ourselves a lazy morning.

A last visit to the refuge's outside loo with an amazing view - and we were off back to Xiloskalo.

When we arrived there at 10.30 we were dismayed to find coaches still disgorging their walkers.

However, by the time we'd had a second breakfast at the taverna, all was peace and quiet again.

Down down down we went into the gorge, with Gingilos towering above us as magnificently as ever.

At the bottom, we stopped for lunch next to the river, then continued on making good time.

We spotted a Kri Kri mother and young not far from the path - a protected species.

We reached the Melindaou side valley and could see Melindaou at the head of it - now 1700m above us. Very impressive!

At Samaria's old deserted village we took a second lunch before the narrower section of the gorge began.

Now we walked between towering rock walls often streaked with colour, crossing and re-crossing the river on temporary bridges.

We reached the Gates of Samaria - the narrowest point - where the river fills the gorge completely.

Another temporary bridge took us through.

We reached Agia Roumelli - the village at the bottom of the gorge - and collapsed into the sea before the sun left the bay.

That night we stayed at Hotel Tarra - revelling in the comforts of ensuite rooms after the refuge!

Today we had an easier day walking along the coast to Loutro.

Some of us couldn't resist a swim from the glorious beach at Agios Pavlos - a small shrine by the sea. It's my turn to faff now - still putting my boots on while others wait to take a group photo!

Then on we walked through pines with the emerald sea below us. Wonderful!

For once we tried the water in one of the cisterns that tap land water along the route - using a bag, stone and string that one woman had brought for the purpose. It tasted delicious.

We stopped for a short break with the coast stretching back to Agia Roumelli.

Rounding the next headland we found a welcome breeze to replace the shade of the pines.

Several headlands further on we came into view of Phoenix bay. Loutro lay beyond the next headland.

We stopped at Mamara beach to swim and have lunch at the little taverna there - then lazed on the beach till well after the midday heat.

Some women borrowed canoes from some folk we'd first met at the refuge, and explored the caves around the bay.

Others of us dug swimming costumes out bags and supped coke or iced tea through straws under umbrellas - of all kinds!

Finally at 4pm we dragged ourselves away, and walked the rest of the way to Loutro, looking back at Phoenix bay in the sun.

Past 2 hot headlands, Loutro came into view. We headed down and settled into our our rooms - then pigged out on delicious cake in a tea room!

Today we left some of our trekking load - and some of the group - at Loutro, and headed up the hill early to Anapolis. Our goal was the colourful Aradena Gorge.

It was very hot and airless as we climbed the 670m to the top of the hill, and most of us wondered if we'd made the right choice!

Thankfully a cool breeze awaited us at the top.

We second breakfasted at a kafeneon in Anapolis, and then walked along the road to the deserted village of Aradena at the top of the gorge.

After wandering around beautiful ruins for a while, we headed down an old mule track into the gorge. The gorge walls were streaked with the same warm colours.

The Aradena Gorge is also much more scrambly than Samaria or Imbros.

After a while we reached a big rock fall, where we had to choose between a new path cut into the cliff - or a scramble down to the older metal ladders.

Needless to say, several of us couldn't resist the ladders!

After such excitement we soon stopped for lunch - and even treated ourselves to a tablecloth for once.

Another rock fall a little further on had us scrambling again, and we made our way carefully down.

Lower down, beautiful oleander bushes accompanied us all the way to the sea.

Several women decided this was their favourite gorge - because of all the scrambling!

The Aradena gorge finishes at Mamara beach, and saving our depleted energies for the last coastal stretch to Hora Sfakion, we decided to take a taxi boat to Loutro.

After more cake in Loutro to recharge our batteries, most of us set off along the coast to Hora Sfakion (a couple of women took the boat due to blisters).

We stopped for a delicious swim in Sweet Water bay - and got mugged by a hungry goat.

In fact, we'd met many beautiful goats that day:

Finally Hora Sfakion came into view as the shadows lengthened - the end of our trek.

Our last meal together was also a celebration of having completed the trek together - and of having had such fun along the way!