Low Intermediate Mull 17-24 Sept
with Fran

17th Sept

A bit of a driech day for the start of the WW week on Mull but the rain outdoors was compensated for by the warmth and hospitality of our hosts Maggie and Cathy. Ardachy Hotel, situated by the beautiful Ardlandish Bay on the Ross of Mull is the perfect setting to relax and chill. Freshly prepared food with some organic ingredients made for top class meals throughout the week.

18th Sept

The first day of walking started reasonably fair. We headed off to Tireragan - an area being reafforested and regenerated for future generations. Some bog asphodel told us that the area was boggy. Bogs were to be one of the themes of the week…. First we climbed up Torr Fada a small hill with views of the south of Mull. We then headed for the old settlement of Tireragan - last occupied around 1820 before the Highland Clearances replaced humans with sheep. A good spot for a tea break! We then descended to the beautiful beach Traigh Geal where women enjoyed having the place to ourselves. We chanced on daisies and sea rocket with its delicate flowers surviving in a harsh climate. Time to eat lunch and explore the rocks around us. The paths were a little overgrown but we managed to blaze trails through them successfully. After the walk we went to visit Ardlanish Organic farm (http://www.ardalanishfarm.co.uk/) and hear about efforts to work with nature and become more sustainable. Oats were being gathered into stuckies to dry out as we talked with Innes talk about life, the universe, and everything. Fascinating chap. The dog didn't seem too fascinated though and the hens were just doing their own thing as we checked out the weaving barn. A venture worth supporting.

19th Sept

The wind and the rain arrived during the night and was still coming down as we got ready for our walk. A little rain wasn't going to daunt this feisty bunch of women so we set off to Camus Tuath and Camus. The housing there was formerly used by quarry workers and now is used as an outdoor centre - we had a chat with one of the folk staying there who reassured us that they were having an indoor day - mad fools and walking women…… We then walked on to our destination - Beinn Liathanach - a mere 81 metres high but with stunning views (when it is not raining) across the island and surroundings isles. We have the proof we were there! We headed down through the heather and past peat cut to dry. Cathy picked us up for lunch at the hotel, then we were out again, refreshed and dry, to visit a local craft fair. The rain cleared to give a beautiful afternoon. A few of us headed down to the coast by Kintra where we saw seals. We enjoyed exploring the coastline as we headed round to Kintra. Meantime back at the hotel the wet gear from the morning was drying well.

20th Sept

We woke to sunshine, and the had wind dropped. Perfect for a day at Loch Buie! The views were stunning and the walking enjoyable as we set off in good spirits. The first game was spotting Queen Victoria in the rocks. We had a tea break here so that the views could be enjoyed. Then on we went, exploring the coast line. Before we knew it we had arrived at Glen Byre - the destination for the day. We crossed the river and found a spot for lunch. A mood of contemplation descended and we seek different corners to ponder the beauty of what is before us. Then an otter was spotted. We watched it play about and catch fish for some time before eventually a gull disturbed it. After lunch some ambled back past the old buildings and returned along the coast whilst the bog crew headed up the old 'horse track' through oak woodland and out into open country with views along Loch Buie. Back on the shores of Loch Buie the post office was open for a cuppa from the friendly post mistress. We reckoned they receive special training to work on Mull called 'service with a smile'. Next we explored some of the historical places about Loch Buie including Moy Castle and the stone circle. We all returned content with a day in a beautiful place and the delight of watching an otter - and finished with excerpts from the 'Sound of Music'!

21st Sept

Cathy and Maggie plus dogs decided to join us for a short time as we headed for the tidal island of Erraid - referred to in Kidnapped by R.L.Stevenson and likely setting for 'Treasure Island'. The tide was out, so the crossing was straight forward, and we enjoyed some lovely scenes by the sea. The island is leased by the Findhorn community and has many visitors on retreat - one of whom we engaged for a while before saying so long farewell auf fidersein, adieu to her and our hostesses. We headed up to an observation point and looked out to sea and lighthouses whilst enjoying a cuppa. Most of the group then headed off to find where David Balfour landed from 'Kidnapped' and were delighted with a beautiful beach. We then made our way back to catch up with those who had opted for some contemplation. After lunch by the prayer room, we left the island, spotting various tracks in the sand, and walked across open moorland passing some old black houses en route. We walked past Pottie 1 and Pottie 2 (yes, really!) and a standing stone, then down to the main road where we awaited transport home. At the finish, a little rain appeared - not bad for a day that had forecast rain throughout!

22nd Sept

The forecast had been fair, so it was a good day to try Iona (though in the end it was windier and wetter than expected). A few women were keen to try Staffa Island first instead, so we left them at the pier before hopping on the ferry to Iona. The crossing was over in a few minutes but it transported us to a different land geologically and spiritually. A shower as we arrived meant we postponed walking until folk have seen the Abbey. A visit to John Smith's headstone took us past the chapel and then the Abbey By the time we emerged it has brightened up and we headed up Dun I, the highest point on the island, and got good views of the Abbey and around about. After a tea - break we headed back to meet the intrepid explorers from Staffa (see below for their photos). We could see them in the distance and Staffa seemed the only place at sea to have sunshine! They were all exhilarated and a little damp - though not in spirits. Following lunch, we made for the west coast of the Iona with its array of pebbles.... ... then we descended to the bay that St. Columba is supposed to have landed at with his followers. Errie noises came from the rocks on nearby islands. After some time contemplating the scene and spotting a seal, we explored the stone maze, then headed back to the centre of Iona with its nunnery, post office, and more beautiful beaches.... Back home, we had a buffet meal and our hostesses joined us for food and then a serenade. The sound of music came drifting into the room and the notes of Edelweiss reached our ears. Soon we had all burst into song and enjoyed a sing song with friends of our hostesses who been persuaded to learn Edelweiss for our benefit. We must have covered songs from several decades and a couple of the women also sang and performed for us. Some night. Thanks Maggie and Cathy. Photos of the Staffa Island trip, thank you Jane! (See also Jane Kindlen's account of the trip at the bottom of the page).

23rd Sept

Changeable weather meant we delayed the start for an hour. Most women went back to the barn to purchase goods from Sherlock Holmes hats to swathes of tweed for the performing arts. We then set off as the weather seemed to be changing for the better. We'll take the high route declared Fran. Getting up was done and dusted in no time with only a short break for tea and an admire of the views by the loch - followed by a sharp downpour of rain. Ben Carsaig is a fantastic panoramic spot - though standing up to appreciate the view was another challenge! Descending proved a more tiring event - a trek down through tufts and bog. Deer spotting and then sea eagle spotting just added to the excitement of the descent. The challenge for the afternoon was staying on our feet. Some did better than others……. We were all delighted to reach the shores and celebrated with a tea break and a pose for the cameras to illustrate that we had indeed passed through bog! Next followed a delightful walk along the coast to Carsaig, viewing geological features and waterfalls en route. To everyone's delight we were able to watch seals on the rocks at the end of the walk. A few women checked out the beach before the day was rounded off with yet another sumptious meal courtesy of our hostesses. Fab food, fab views, fab wildlife, fab company, fab week! Tomorrow sadly it would be time to go home...

Women's Feedback

"Excellent company, excellent accommodation and food and excellent leadership. The weather - well is didn't rain every day! I liked the attitude of the hotel - using local and organic produce where possible, and Maggie & Cathy were both friendly and professional. I loved Mull, although it was a long way to travel we saw seals, a sea otter, deer and sea eagles - what could be better". Maggie

"Excellent. Balancing different capabilities and degrees of fitness made the choice of walks complex for the guide to choose but she did so with diplomacy and patience. The hotel was good too with very good food". Scilla

"Very enjoyable, no complaints at all. It was first class accommodation, excellent food and a very enjoyable and memorable holiday".

"Fantastic! Superb experience. The hotel proprietors made us so welcome and were very attentive. Excellent food. I really enjoyed my stay at the hotel. The walks were not demanding and this was pleasant. The walks were varied giving us the opportunity to see different historical features, rock formations and wildlife. Fran was excellent, very enthusiastic, energetic, sensitive and attentive to individuals and groups needs". Jane

"A wonderful holiday - my second with WW, and my high expectations were entirely met. This must be one of the most beautiful places in the world. Our hotel was welcoming, comfortable and relaxed, hosts Cathy and Maggie were kindness itself, and nothing was too much trouble. The cooking was outstanding - I put on nearly half a stone, but this may have been because I ate everything on the menu, and more. Others were choosing between starter and sweet, the mad fools. The walks? Too many memories... I'll never forget Friday's descent from Ben Carsaig; as we all tumbled from tussocks and stepped in yet more bog, some discovered hitherto unknown talents for profanity, while others were crying with laughter. The beautiful way back along the shoreline in a silver afternoon was the perfect last walk of the holiday. Fran, thank you so much". Nickey

"I had a great time - even if waterproofs were not waterproof enough! (Only actually ½ day of torrential Highland rain) - with a great crowd of people in a beautiful place…just what I wanted. Fran was subtly aware of people's limitations and catered for all". Sue

"Fran was exceedingly helpful in attending to all the needs of our group including having extra gloves, wet suits for those who needed them. She is an amazing guide who led unfalteringly on some difficult walks. The hospitality of Maggie and Cathy especially the food and service at Ardachy House was superb. Scotland is beautiful! The Iona island trip is one I have wanted to make all my life!" Ann

"I enjoyed it very much. The walks were invigorating and the views were inspiring. A little wetter and more difficult than I thought it would be but this was my first WW holiday so I had no expectations as such. Fran did her best to accommodate everyone and was very knowledgeable and helpful. The accommodation was excellent and far better than I imagined!"

"It was a fantastic holiday! Mull is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been and we went on a good variety of walks to see it at its best. Fran was a great guide and showed great humour and fortitude even in the 'boggiest of moments!'"

Jane Kindlen's account of the trip (Thank you Jane)

It is hard to know where to begin, what to start with....in reality it is difficult to comprehend the beauty captured in such a place. The island of Mull is situated off the west coast of Scotland; a 45 minute ferry crossing from Oban on the Scottish mainland....

.....Three previous visits to Mull had been for the purpose of visiting Iona, many years before, with no opportunity to see Mull. I had never explored the island nor walked its ground - that is, until the WalkingWomen trip!

Our accommodation was at the Ardachy House Hotel, near Bunessan. Each of us was given a very warm and genuine welcome from Maggie and Cathy, the proprietors. Instantly I felt at home to relax and unwind, and eager to see what Mull had to show for herself. Needless to say, she didn't disappoint. In the company of our friendly and experienced walking guide, Fran, the week got underway.

The Southerly views from the hotel stretch out across the sea. On a clear day (!), the islands of Jura (with its impressive mountain range, the Paps) and Colonsay can be seen. Rugged, expansive coastline, impressive formations of rocks strewn along the coastline; contrasting with white, sandy beaches and clear waters. It was all dazzling to the eye and focused the mind on the richness and diversity of all around. Simply breathtaking. One can appreciate the setting for R. L. Stevenson's 'Kidnapped' on the small island of Erraid.

Throughout the week, Fran took the time to stop and impart lots of information and point out endless features, flowers, plants, trees, rock formations, turf-cutting to retrieve Peat, lighthouses, granite quarrying, remains of settlements, local history on a broad scale. Sue imparted lots of knowledge about wildflowers, remedies and plants, Maggie S always offered a joke along the way which ensured our sense of humours were maintained! Scilla's humour and stories always entertained. We nibbled berries (and occasionally spat out a few!). Cathy & Maggie frequently shared their knowledge of Mull, and painted a detailed picture of island life, past and present, local communities and industry. A visit to a Craft Fayre, part of the Island's Food Festival, gave us the opportunity to support local produce and gifts; while a visit to the neighbouring organic farm, complete with their weaving company, provided opportunities to see the weaver at work, and in some cases, purchase the goods.

Whilst walking, I tried to record images in my mind of all we saw, knowing that cameras can't always capture the 'whole'. Our wildlife sightings were an example of this, impossible to take detailed, close-up pictures without huge camera lenses! Still, the thrill and excitement when Fran spotted a sea-otter in Loch Buie. The seals that graced us with their presence - basking in afternoon sunshine on rocks near Kintra, one we affectionately nicknamed 'Sausage'! The sighting of a sea eagle as we descended near Carsaig. Regular sightings of buzzards flying overhead throughout the week. Frogs/toads, hairy caterpillars, dragonfly, deer, slow worm - it sounds like a recipe for a witches cauldron!

Moy Castle on the edge of Loch Buie. The small parish church, the Post Office hut for a cuppa (!), the visit to the nearby stone circle, and the continued bog-hopping and inevitable 'slurp' when ones foot went under!

The walking on Erraid and its surrounds. Beautiful, vast beaches. Cattle, goats and sheep wandering across sands. The Findhorn Community, prayer room and the observatory. The trek down into Balfour's Beach, summing up the setting for 'Kidnapped'. Walking to Pottie (the images such place names conjure up!).

The trip to Staffa & Iona. Julie, Maria, Scilla and I boarded the boat at Fionnaphort whilst the rest of the group took the ferry to Iona. (There they had time to wander round the Abbey, Nunnery ruins, and soak up the uniqueness that is Iona). It was very windy, and the sea was very choppy. As we lined up to board the boat, our skipper, Dave forewarned us that it would be particularly rough on the way back, sailing into the wind! Scilla jokingly enquired whether he was trying to put us off!

As we approached Staffa, the rock formations and caves came into view, Dave studied the shoreline for a few minutes before deciding it was safe to attempt to land us ashore! Walking along the edge of the rocks into Fingal's Cave required using the help of a handrail set into the rockface - not a time for acrobatics! The acoustics amplified the sound of the waves sweeping in and out of the cave - not easy to hear ones voice above the noise! After returning to the boat, Dave circled the island pointing out the areas where seals go ashore to have their pups, and the gathering points for Puffins during May, June & July. As we headed back towards Fionnaphort and Iona, a memorable experience was rounded off with waves splashing huge quantities of sea spray over us!

On rejoining the rest of the group on Iona, we ate lunch on rocks by the shore and exchanged our experiences thus far. Fran then led us to the beaches on the West coast of Iona, and we enjoyed collecting pebbles of various colours and formations before heading to the Southern end of the island, to the area where St Columba landed. More opportunities to view impressive scenery - a scattering of islands, the sun breaking through the clouds, breathe the air in and out - and time to reflect....

The buffet spread that evening was fantastic, with a diverse range of dishes to whet walking appetites! The sudden sound of the singing of 'Edelweiss' from Sound of Music had us all falling about laughing! An enjoyable singsong mingled with story-telling and jokes!

Our final venture at Carsaig was the culmination of a week of varied and enjoyable walking. It was perhaps the most testing, due to a few steep inclines and the strong, buffeting wind up top! However, the constant patches of bog, overgrown bracken and invisible holes in the ground tested our wits, balance, patience, humour, knees and ankles! (Many expletives could be heard as we descended towards the coast!).

Passing the caves along the shoreline was a pleasant change from the bogs and holes of the slopes! The rock formations, imposing columns etched into the cliffs. The little waterfalls rushing over the cliff tops and pouring down the rock......

....where had the week gone? It seemed to evaporate quicker than my G & T's or glasses of wine! This brings me to the subject of food, and our wonderful hosts Maggie and Cathy. The quality of food, variety of choice, the hard work and preparation was all evident and appreciated by all. Nothing was too much trouble - giving us lifts to our walks and helping to dry wet clothes. Thank you for looking after us and for feeding us so well!

Well Fran, you did it! You kept us safe, managed to keep a body count (only joking!) and guided us with enthusiasm and care, thank you for all your hard work and energy.

I enjoyed being part of a memorable experience. I'm sure it will stay with us for a very long time. Lead on McDuff....
Jane Kindlen Sept 2005

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