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------ ---Intermediate Whale Trail, SA




Intermediate Whale Trail 14-28 August
with Louise & Ros

Many thanks to Louise, Claire, and Sue for these wonderful photos!


14th August

At the airport. (Claire Evans)This holiday started with a flight from Gatwick to Cape Town via Johannesburg.

Ellie had been suddenly unable to co-guide the holiday, so Lorraine came to Gatwick instead - to meet with everyone at check-in.

Airport (Claire Evans)


The flight was uneventful despite the heightened airport security. We had arranged for the group to be seated together so that they could start getting to know each other...




15th August

Brenwin Guest House. (Claire Evans)Arriving in Cape Town, the group were met by Ros and Louise. Louise would be taking Ellie's place on the holdiay - a WalkingWomen friend of longstanding, and also a good friend of Ros'.

Brenwin pool. (Claire Evans)


Having collected luggage, we transferred to Brenwin Guest House in Cape Town's Green Point district near the Waterfront. It was great to just arrive!

At the Waterfront - with Table Mountain behind. (Sue Young)

There was time to freshen up before venturing out to the V&A waterfront for some shopping and foreign exchange.

At the Waterfront. (Claire Evans)


At the Waterfront. (Claire Evans)





There were buskers and bands playing, superb views of Table Mountain, shops to peruse, and loads of blue sky!

Buskers at the Waterfront. (Claire Evans)

We had a cup of tea to help with the jet lag and walked back to the Brenwin G/H to get ready for the Wang Thai restaurant in the evening.

Coffee and planning.


Table Mountain from the Waterfront. (Claire Evans)






Dinner at the Want Thai.


Despite the good red wine it was not a late night as most folk were tired after the long trip.




16th August

Spring in Cape Town can be wet at times.We woke up to a typical winter's day in CT - cold and windy but luckily no rain!

Starting up beside the waterfall below Platteklip.





Ros decided to take us for a walk on the front table as the top of Table Mountain was covered in thick cloud.

Listening to Ros

We walked up to the contour path via the Platteklip (flat rock) Gorge ascent.

Cave overlooking city bowl.





On the path we passed a waterfall and a wonderful overhang en route to the Saddle.

Lunch.

Here we encountered a stiff wind and after viewing the False Bay coast line hunkered down at Breakfast Rock for some shelter and a quick snack. By this time all of us had put on all our layers.

View over Cape Town to Lions Head.


Lions Head from the Contour Path. (Sue Young)





View over Cape Town. (Sue Young)


On the Contour Path. (Claire Evans)





Walking along the Contour Path.


We continued along the contour path to Oppelskop stopping for lunch on the way. A bit of rock scrambling down to the lower contour path added some spice to the walk!

Looking at flowers along our route. (Claire Evans)

Thereafter a lovely meander back to where we had started.


Deep in conversation at dinner.


In the evening we went to the Cape Town Fish Market Restaurant and new tastes were experimented with - some tried sushi, others tried roast sweet potato and all agreed that the restaurant was a good choice.




17th August

District 6 Museum. (Claire Evans)Today while Ros and I (Louise) shopped, the rest of the group went on a tour of the Townships.

The old street signs that the demolition crew never threw away. (Claire Evans)




On the way they stopped at the District Six museum - a simply excellent museum documenting life under Apartheid.

Our guide at the District 6 Museum. (Claire Evans)


The tour stopped at the old District 6 - the former centre of Cape Town that was once a thriving mixed community and was cleared and raised to the ground under Apartheid for just that reason.

District 6. (Claire Evans)

Slowly now it is starting to be rebuilt.

District 6. (Claire Evans)





In one of the former townships. (Claire Evans)



In the former townships and shanty towns they visited a school for migrant kids outside the school system and a flower maker (making flowers out of metal scrap).

Kids in the former townships. (Claire Evans)
The flower maker. (Claire Evans)








At the school.


At the flower makers.







Kindergaten kids in school. (Claire Evans)
Rosie. (Claire Evans)








They visited Rosie's soup kitchen - set up to give kids with working parents breakfast before school...

Rosies soup kitchen. (Claire Evans)
Vickys B&B. (Claire Evans)







Vickys B&B. (Claire Evans)

They then stopped for lunch at the 'smallest hotel in the world' - Vicky's B&B in 2 shanty houses.

Lunch in Vickys B&B. (Claire Evans)




Most of these initiatives to improve the quality of life in the former townships and shanty towns are women-run.

Taking the ferry to Robben Island. (Claire Evans)

In the afternoon the tour left them at the Robben Island ferry for a trip to this former prison island where Mandela and other political prisoners were held.

Inside former Robben Island prison. (Claire Evans)Robben Island prison. (Claire Evans)



Mandelas former cell. (Claire Evans)







and bed. (Claire Evans)



Robben Island is now a museum run by former prisoners and wardens in the spirit of reconciliation, and as they walked around the former prison they were also shown Mandela's former cell.

Inside the cell. (Claire Evans)The mainland from Robben Island. (Claire Evans)








Arriving back at the Waterfront. (Sue Young)


In the meantime Ros and I had been doing the food shopping for the Whale Trail trip - 35 bags of groceries in total!!

Dinner at Marcos Africa Place. (Sue Young)

We met up again to go out to dinner at Marcos African Restaurant - a great restaurant with music as well as a wide range of local dishes.

At Marcos. (Sue Young)


Everyone was tired after the long but fascinating day and most went to bed soon after we got back - ready for the big day tomorrow.




18th August

Looking at the map.Today we left for the De Hoope Whale Trail - after a morning of sorting gear and packing. Some clothes could be left in Hermanus en route ready for our 2 nights there after the trail.

Brenwin pool.



I did a suitcase check resulting in a few more items being left behind! Of great concern however was how much wine could be taken due to the restriction on space.

Setting off.

After many calculations based on how large a glass of wine per evening the dispute was settled.

Ferdinand our driver arrived at 12 noon and all the bags were packed in an instant.

Leaving for the Whale Trail. (Claire Evans)

It was with great excitement that we headed off for the Whale Trail. We passed fields of green wheat and yellow rape seed encircled by mountains.

Rape seed fields in flower.


Blue cranes (an endangered bird) were seen in abundance as were ostrich.

Setting off.


After a stop in Bredasdorp for last minute shopping (and coffee or tea) we arrived at Potberg, the start of the Whale Trail.

Arriving at Potberg - our first hut. (Claire Evans)


We unpacked and explored our surroundings. Ros had us wrapping onions and potatoes in foil and doing general preparations for the evening braai and the packing for next day.

Tea and wrapping vegies.

Wine rationing was allocated to me and I was apparently very strict!

Enjoying a mug of wine.


It had started to rain soon after we arrived and did not let up the entire night. This did not stop us having a generally good sleep before the big walk.




19th August

Trail markers. (Sue Young)Today dawned overcast and damp, unfortunately. As we walked in the mist to the top of the ridge we saw sunbirds, sugarbirds, podilyria, but no vultures.

Admiring the leucadendrons.







Protea.

It was cold and windy when we reached the ridge - more aware of the flowers around us than the views of the Breede River. However after a shower the views opened up.

Close views rather than the Breede River. (Claire Evans)

We had lunch beside a where a tame Southern Bou Bou (bird) also invited himself to lunch.

Lunch beside the river. (Claire Evans)


Lunch beside the river. (Claire Evans)





Louise & Ros beside the river. (Claire Evans)




A small river crossing then took us into the final section of the days walk to Cupidokraal hut, our next night stop.

River crossing. (Claire Evans)

We passed myriads of flowers along the way, including the cats paw plant which excited a lot of interest.

A mass of leuchadendrons gave splashes of yellow to the landscape.

 First view of Cupidos kraal hut.



Finally we could see the cottage way below.

In Cupidos hut. (Sue Young)


We soon had a roaring fire and another braai going, with lots of banter as we competed in the name game - which we played on several nights.

Ros by the braai (barbque). (Claire Evans)
Name game before dinner.



20th August

Setting off from Cupidos Hut.Today we woke to another overcast day but still with views back to the cottage as we walked up the hill headed for the sea via Potberg mountain.

Stream crossing.



Anon protea!




Brunia.



The weather started to clear as our route took us through limestone hills with a strikingly different fynbos ('beautiful bush' - the name given to this kind of vegetation).

Crossing boggy bits on branches. (Claire Evans)

At one point of the walk the ground became very swampy from the exceptional rainfall that the area had received, and we had to create bridges by using old branches.

On a real bridge! (Claire Evans)

The sun comes out and stays out. (Sue Young)






Limestone landscape. (Claire Evans)

Little bird in the fynbos. (Claire Evans)






Big waterfall due to heavy rainfalls.


Just before we descended to the coast the sun came out, and stayed out, giving us fantastic views of the Indian Ocean and the Breede River behind us.

First view of Noetsie hut and the lagoon open (unusually) to the sea.
Marcia & Louise. (Claire Evans)View of the Breede river. (Claire Evans)







Photos with Noetsie bay behind. (Claire Evans)



There were no Whale sightings today as the sea was extremely rough.

Louise now in shorts! (Claire Evans)Walking across Noetsie Bay. (Sue Young)

To our left we could see wonderful Noetsie Bay with our two huts for our 3rd trail night beyond.

Noetsie Bay - but no whale sightings. (Claire Evans)





We descended the cliffs to cross a river mouth heading for the huts, with much laughter as a couple of folk got wet from an unexpected wave.

Noetsie Huts.

We settled into our huts and enjoyed the view of the sea. There was lots of birdlife around (Cape Robin, red winged starlings, rock kestrel and Cape bul-bul) and baboons as well.

Noetsie Bay. (Sue Young)


Frisbee games and later a sing-song around the fire as Ros cooked up a great stir fry.

Evening sing song in noetsie boma.



Braai at Noetsie. (Claire Evans)



21st August

Ready to walk.We had a leisurely start to the day as the distance to the next hut, Hamerkop hut, was not going to be as long as the previous two days.

First tail sighted!



The weather had returned to overcast keeping the temperature cool for walking, however our first whales were spotted at dawn by Sue, as well as more curious baboons!

Walking along the cliff path.

We saw more whales from the hut, and as we started walking we saw still more whales....

Whales just out to sea. (Claire Evans)



Misty whale views. (Claire Evans)




Tail again! (Claire Evans)



Watching the whales. (Claire Evans)




Caves along cliffside.



The terrain was different to the previous 2 days as we walked hugging the coastline.

Cormorants.

As we walked we saw more whales and sunbirds. Red lichen on rocks added colour to the day, and we also spotted 3 Klipspringer (buck).

Ros. (Claire Evans)


Following cliff path after lunch.





Reaching the beach before Hamerkop Hut. (Claire Evans)


Lovely shells. (Claire Evans)





There was a final stretch along the beach and then the welcome sight of Hamerkop Hut.

Getting ready to leave Hamerkop Hut.

We had a lovely meal - though I say so myself as it was my pasta dish! Everyone pitched in to help slice and dice.

Meal at Hamerkop hut. (Claire Evans)



Spooning out the port! (Claire Evans)




Our wine we drank out of a bowl - French style - which I carefully measured out again; and had a spoonful of port - also carefully measured!!

Later we sat around the fire which warmed our conversation as it dried the washing.




22nd August

A Dassi (rock hydrax). (Claire Evans)First excitement of the morning - was it a dassie (rock hyrax) or a mongoose? After much debate agreed that it was a mongoose. We also had an early sighting of a dolphin.

First real beach walking.



This morning we walked along the beach to start with - in the mist. The conditions made the rock formations look rather surreal and eerie.

On the beach. (Claire Evans)
Tidal pools.







Looking back along beach.
Heading for lunch stop.







A break on the beach. (Sue Young)
Ros and Louise on the beach. (Sue Young)







 (Sue Young)
Resting on the sand. (Claire Evans)








Holy rocks near lunch stop.

It threatened to rain at one stage but our donning of waterproofs sent the rain away!

We had a leisurely walk spotting whales, looking at birds, and chatting.

Descending the ladder to the cave beach. (Claire Evans)

In the afternoon we descended a ladder to visit a wonderful cave, conquering many fears, as well as some brave souls taking a quick dip in the Indian Ocean.

Water in the cave. (Claire Evans)

It was whale family day as we saw 3 pairs of mother and child and a quick sighting of a seal.

Reaching Vaalkrans Hut. (Claire Evans)



We arrived early at Vaalkrans and some of the group took time to stretch muscles while others played cards or read.

Ros sharing out the last of the wine!! (Claire Evans)

This was our last trail night so we sipped the last of the wine - carefully measured by Ros, and the bottle of port emptied using a new dessertspoon technique.

Dinner by candlelight.



23rd August

Last look at Vaalkrans Hut. (Claire Evans)Another leisurely start to the day with no more food to pack into suitcases.

View along the cliff. (Claire Evans)





Duck rock formation.


We saw strange duck-shaped rocks as we walked along the beach, with a final adventure of walking across the rock pools.

Ros taking group on less travelled path.




Walking over sand dunes.



A marshmallow stop eased the calf muscles - Beth is undoubtedly the marshmallow queen!

Marshmellow stop.

Hippo pools intrigued everybody, however the water was too cold to swim.

Last lunch stop on the trail with hippo pool below.



After our last lunch on the beach we continued onto the board walk where we did a group bow to the trail and to the fact that everyone had completed it.

 (Claire Evans)

Now came the trip back to Potberg by National Park bus. On the way through the park we saw Blesbok and Eland (buck), baboons, birds...

 (Claire Evans)



Looking out from the Windsor Hotel. (Claire Evans)



At Potberg we met up with Ferdinand again, then it was off to Hermanus. We were a bus load of tired walkers!

Cormerants watching the whales.

The Windsor Hotel has a great location on the seafront where a whale was waiting to greet us in the bay.





Dinner and wine by the bottle (not by the spoon!)





Once everybody had freshened up we went out for dinner with no wine rationing!




24th August

Waterfall in Fernkloof Nature Reserve.Today there were several options open. We had a day and another night in Hermanus to spend.

Some went for a walk in Fernkloof Nature Reserve in the morning, while others decided to explore the town.

 Male Sugarbird

The walkers took a path to the waterfall and then up to Lemoenkop. There were plenty of sugar birds flashing their long tails.

Sue & Beth in whaling outfits.





A few folks went on the Dyer Island whale watching trip and had close encounters with Southern Rights, great white sharks, African penguins and lots of Cape Fur seals.

Whale boat being launched.On the Dyer Island whale watching trip. (Sue Young)








Seals. (Sue Young)Whales everywhere! (Sue Young) (Sue Young)








 (Sue Young)



Eating out at Harbour Rock restaurant. (Claire Evans)




The rest of the group went for a long lunch at the Harbour Rock restaurant, and had front row sightings of whales breaching.


Whales see from the restaurant.








The evening was at everyone's' leisure, but none of us went to bed late due to the early rise the next morning to get back to Cape Town.




25th August

 (Sue Young)We had a hearty breakfast before packing up into the bus for the trip back. We took the coastal route, past Betties Bay, Rooiels and through the Strand and had stunning views of False Bay looking over to Cape Point.

 (Claire Evans)


Boulder beach to see the penguins. (Claire Evans)





Penguins on Boulder Beach.



We continued the coastal route to Boulders Beach to see the African penguin (they were formerly known as the Jackass penguin due to its call).


Sleeping adult penguin. (Claire Evans)








 (Claire Evans)


 (Claire Evans)






 (Claire Evans)








Lunch at Seaforth.

We stopped for lunch at Seaforth overlooking False Bay from the far side.

Ros at Cape Point. (Claire Evans)



The group assisted in the economy of the Cape by popping into all the local shops for souvenirs and last minute presents.


We then drove on towards Cape Point. Here we climbed to the Point for some amazing views, then did a little shopping at the souvenir shops.

 (Sue Young)


 Cape of Good Hope. (Sue Young)





 (Claire Evans)


 (Claire Evans)








From Cape Point we walked along the boardwalk to the Cape of Good Hope where we had to wait to get a group photograph, fending off other tour groups!

Group photo after pushing other tourists away.

View from boardwalk towards Cape Point.






Baboon. (Claire Evans)


More close encounters with daasis. We then witnessed a male baboon doing a 100 metre sprint to break all world records when he decided we were a potential food source!

 (Claire Evans)

Finally we arrived back at the Brenwin in time for a quick refresh and dinner at the Waterfront. We chose a Greek meal for a change, sitting outside with the outdoor heaters.




26th August

Early morning cloud on Table Mountain.Saturday dawned with clear skies, windless and warm. The morning was spent exploring the city and doing more shopping.

Going up in the cable car. (Claire Evans)




Looking back down. (Sue Young)




In the afternoon when the sun had burnt off the mist on Table Mountain we caught the cable car up, and walked across top to Platteklip Gorge.

Start of walk on top.


Lions Head & Signal Hill. (Sue Young)





Looking down on Cape Town. (Sue Young)



Ros pointed out where we had walked on the first day. We had fine views down over Cape Town.

Platterklip Gorge. (Sue Young)Ros pointing out where we had walked the first day. (Sue Young)


Devils Peak. (Sue Young)









Beth on path down to Platteklip.

We watched puffer runners (a race that starts from Cape Point and ends in the city) running down the Platteklip Gorge. Afterwards we walked to the Back Table for a view across the Cape Peninsula.

Orange breated sunbird.



Looking down on Cape Town. (Claire Evans)




Walking to the Back Table. (Claire Evans)




 (Sue Young) (Sue Young)



Looking down on Lions Head from back near the cable car. (Claire Evans)







Camps Bay. (Claire Evans)

Later we walked to Camps Bay beach to watch the sunset and to look out for the 'green flash as the sun goes down'!?

Camps Bay. (Claire Evans)


Dinner was at Tuscany Beach with lots of cocktails.

Louise and marcia with hanging kingklip


Last dinner at tuscany beach restaurant






 (Claire Evans)


 (Claire Evans)








Sundowners! (Claire Evans)


The group gave Ros and I lovely presents and a wonderful time was had by all, capped off by trying out 8 different ports … with teaspoons all round!




27th August

 Overlooking clifton on Atlantic seaboard.Today our very last walk was along the base of Lions Head in the morning.

Standing in field of spring flowers





There were lots of spring flowers and views over the Atlantic coastline - still a lovely walk despite fire damage last year.

Spiloxene capensis.Morea vegeta.








Louise writing addresses down! (Claire Evans)Relaxing back at Brenwin G/H. (Claire Evans)

There was then still time for last minute shopping before setting off for the Airport in the afternoon.

Some women had record luggage weights!! It had been a great holiday and everyone was sad to be going home.



Women's Feedback

"Just back from the Whale Walk, fantastic, everything I hoped for. The whole holiday was a wonderful and unforgettable experience especially the trek. What can I do next year!" Gillian

"A fantastic holiday, which exceeded all expectations. The walking was good and the short walks, before and after the Trail, were just right too. There was enough opportunity in Cape Town to be independent if you wished and at no time did I feel compelled to do something I didn't want. Ros and Louise organised everything very efficiently and were good company as well as good leaders. Their knowledge about the flora & fauna was really appreciated". Beth

"This holiday was superb. I have no complaints at all about the holiday. The organisation was fantastic. Ros and Louise created a really enjoyable holiday and worked very hard to create exactly what the group wanted".

"This fantastic holiday had everything. Catering on the trek was superb. Ros was a champion on the BBQ, a fountain of facts on the walks and she was a friend to everyone. Louise made us laugh, watched over us and turned out a pretty good pasta. In fact I wish I was just about to start the trek again! I think this has been my best holiday ever!"

"Really enjoyed it and it met expectations. The mix of Trail and city was excellent and the Township Tour was the highlight of Cape Town. There was a good choice of walks and the food on the Trail was great. Both guides were very open and accommodating". Helen

"It certainly met expectations, having been inspired to go by hearing the accounts of others who'd done the holiday. It was great. I very much valued the mix of Cape Town, Robben Island, Township tour and District 6. I loved the trek, the coastline, the fynbos, the birds, the whales especially, the animals, Cape Point - all of it really. Guides were excellent, very informative and good at managing group dynamics. Good bunch of women on the holiday".

"Can't fault it. Well organised holiday, location, variety, walks, place; excellent. Wonderful walking with wonderful women. Ros & Louise were the best and it was nice to have 2 South African guides. I really enjoyed it!" Marcia

"Absolutely fantastic - a holiday of a lifetime. It far exceeded my expectations, particularly the trek. I couldn't believe that we saw so many whales and so close. The guides really got involved too, working 24 hours around the clock to make sure we had a great holiday and giving us amazing food. I could get used to being taken care of like that!" Maura


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