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------ ---Intermediate Buttermere Trek




Intermediate Buttermere Trek 25-31 August
with Marian



25th August

Keswick youth hostel.This holiday is a youth hostel based trek from Keswick to Upper Ennerdale and Buttermere, and back!

We all arrived at Keswick YH safely, and some women even had time to wander around Keswick before dinner.

Over dinner we started getting to know each other, and afterwards we had a short meeting in the lounge to go through plans for the trek. Most women headed to bed fairly early after their journeys.




26th August

Derwent Water from Cat Bells.After our breakfast, some of the group did some very early morning shopping for trekking essentials!

We then set off around Derwentwater toward Cat Bells and Borrowdale.

The islands of Derwent Water.


The weather was fine, so hats and sunblock came out before the ascent onto Catbells. The views were absolutely stunning as we ate our lunch just beyond the summit of Cat Bells.

Walking to Hollows Farm.A break in the little valley on the way to Hollows Farm.



Descending from the saddle into Borrowdale, we now took a little path along the hillside to Hollows Farm.

Sheep sheering going on at Hollows Farm.



Here we saw the sheep being sheared, so we stopped and watched for a few minutes.

Shorn sheep!



The River Derwent.




Continuing on into Borrowdale's woods - Low and High Hows wood - we reached the River Derwent which gave us paddling opportunities!

Paddling opportunities.


Further on also visited Millican Daltons cave - which was once the summer home of an eccentric Victorian who would invite his friends to stay - for the first outward bound courses!

Paddling in the Derwent.



There was evidence of it still being used as a bivvie site, with a fire and stone chairs and bracken in the stone cot.

Graffiti in the stone outside Miligan Daltons cave.

From here we followed the River Derwent to Rossthaite village where we rewarded ourselves with tea and some cake at the splendid Flock Inn tea room, sitting in the garden to enjoy the sun.

Borrowdale YH

Finally, we headed off across the fields to Borrowdale YH, our last leg of the day, settling in to our dorms there, and enjoying a good dinner courtesy of the youth hostel staff.




27th August

Sour Milk Gill waterfall.Today was cooler, though the weather was still fine and dry - better in fact, given that we have more ascent today.

We walked up the Seathwaite valley and looked at the graphite mines as we passed by.

Looking down into Seathwaite from our path.

There were fewer people around here compared to popular Cat Bells, and after we climbed the steep path beside Sour Milk Gill waterfall, we found we had the hanging valley of Gillercombe to ourselves.

Ennerdale and the Buttermere Fells.

Steadily up and up we went till we reached the top of Green Gable, with superb views down into Ennerdale. We could see Black Sail Hut - our goal for the night.

Black Sail Hut is down there!

We ate our lunch on top of Green Gable soaking it all in, then headed down into Windy Gap - the saddle between Green and Great Gable.

On the top of Green Gable.






From here we took the path down the well-named Stony Cove, and onto the delightfully grassy ridge called the Tongue.

Looking back up at Windy Gap.

It is a great route down to Black Sail YH giving relaxing walking on the springy grass - just what we needed at this point in the day.

Looking back up at Great Gable from the drumlins in the valley.


Black Sail is fantastic as always - a simple youth hostel alone in Upper Ennerdale, with superb views of Great Gable, Kirk Fell, and Pillar from the grassy sheep-mown lawn outside the hut.

Sheep mown grass.Black Sail Hut as the mist comes down.








Mist on Pillar.


Relaxing inside Black Sail Hut.






The new wardens are very helpful, as well as cooking us a great evening meal.




28th August

Curious and hungry Swaledale.Despite the mist of the previous evening, we were greeted by another lovely sunny day. The sheep are also out to greet us!

Herdwick.





Group photo outside Black Sail Hut.


Group close up!








Good views at every pause.

After a good breakfast, we bid goodbye to Black Sail Hut and took the path up onto Haystacks via Scarth Gap.

Stunning view over Buttermere from the path.






Haystacks is beautiful - so rugged for a comparatively small hill and lots of little tarns on the top.

Heading up onto Haystacks.

Buttermere and Crummock Water.






Scrambly sections before the top of Haystacks.

Looking across to Fleetwith Pike and Dale Head.






The views from the top were superb. We had lunch by Innominate Tarn.

Group photo on Haystacks.

There were huge dragonflies here, one was newly hatched and was drying its wings out.

Innominate Tarn.




Newly hatched dragonfly.



Stunning views down from our descending path.Buttermere.




After lunch we headed down to the slate quarries. The views of Buttermere on the way were excellent.

Buttermere.


Some women chose to wait by the mountain hut at Dubs quarry and read in the sun, whilst the rest of us took a series of miners paths and tracks up onto the summit of Fleetwith Pike.

Buttermere from Fleetwith Pike.

The views from here were breathtaking, looking down the length of Buttermere and Crummock Water. We could also look down on Haystacks where we were earlier in the day.

Heading down into Warnscale Bottoms.

We couldn't linger too long as the others were waiting, so we hurried back to them and took the miners track down.

Walking down the miners track.


This brought us into Warnscale Bottoms - the head of the Buttermere valley - and we took the path along the lakeshore to Buttermere YH.

Trees on the shore of Buttermere.Looking across the lake.

Here we found our luggage waiting for us - brought here by taxi the day before from Borrowdale YH. We settle in, and have a well earned meal at the hostel.

Buttermere YH.



29th August

Heading up through the sunny woods.We were greeted by yet another sunny day - we are lucky!

Some women decided to take the bus and go to Keswick for a little retail therapy.

Headed for Low Bank.



The rest of us chose an easier walk today, taking the path onto a small ridge called Low Bank, where there were great views of Crummock Water.

Looking back toward the central fells.

Crummock Water.






Crummock Water.

Looking up towards the Grasmore fells.






Heading down from Rannerdale Knotts.

From here we did a circuit of Crummock Water through the woods and back along the far side of the lake.

Crummock Water.



Walking around Crummock Water.Crummock Water.





Dog roses.





Sitting on a rock in Crummock Water.Beautiful tree in Crummock Water.


Looking up the valley towards Haystacks.








Wonderful sky over Crummock Water.

We stopped for a paddle. It was one of those sublime days where everything is a picture.

Fleetwith Pike as we near Buttermere.




We found a great tree for climbing, and some wild apple trees as well as Holly trees with unripe Holly berries.

Looking up the valley. (Anna Lloyd)
A rest beside the water.







Tree climbing.
Holly trees.







Stepping stones through the boggy bits.









It is always boggy here but the stepping stones helped, and we stopped in the pub garden for refreshments on our way back through Buttermere to the YH. Very welcome at the end of a warm day!




30th August

Misty day - looking back at Buttermere.This morning we were to leave this beautiful valley. The cloud was low - helping us to leave - and we set off up the path onto Robinson.

By the time we reached the boggy plateau of High Snockrigg at 500m we couldn't even see Robinson, or anything much more than 100m away.

Sheep in the mist.

The women seemed to quite enjoy this mystery tour, as we navigated our way across Buttermere Moss, and up onto Robinson.

Cairn on the top of Dale Head



As we approached the summit we saw an aerial poking out of the mist next to summit cairn. It turned out to belong to a Ham radio enthusiast and his less enthusiastic son!

They were talking to other enthusiasts on neighbouring summits.

Group photo on Dale Head

We didn't stay long because it was windy at the summit, and soon headed off for the ridge, following the boundary posts along Littledale Edge and Hindsgarth Edge, and meeting a pair of ravens playing on the wind.

On Hindsgarth Edge as we stopped for lunch we attracted a sheep looking for morsels from our packed lunches.

Regaining Honister Slate mine.

Continuing on with a last ascent, we reached Dale Head summit - and here we turned downhill towards Honister Pass and the Honister Mine tea stop.

Walking along the Derwent back to the hostel.



After finding that there are very many more uses for slate than most us had imagined, we took the Old Honister Road - a track once used by mineworkers - down into Borrowdale, and back along the river Derwent to the YH.

The River Derwent.


Borrowdales woods.



31st August

Walking up the bridle path to Watendlath. This was to be our last day of trekking, getting us back to Keswick in time for homeward travel.

Group photo on the way up.








For our route to get there we took the path through Rosthwaite, then up the old bridleway to Watendlath hamlet - where we visited the farm tearooms for elevenses.

Watendlath Tarn.


Watendlath tea room.Cheeky chaffinches.








Walking down to Lodore Falls.



Now came the lovely Watendlath valley, walking beside the beck and following it down past Lodore falls.

Heather coming out.




Walking down to Lodore Falls.



Keswick Launch comes into the landing stage.




We were in good time to catch the Derwentwater ferry back to Keswick - returning to Keswick YH to collect our luggage which has been taxied there from Borrowdale this morning.

Back in Keswick - last view of Derwent Water.


Here it was time to say our goodbyes - the end of a magical trek to the Western Lakes.



Women's Feedback

"I really enjoyed the holiday, it exceeded my expectations in terms of the variety of people it attracted and the varied walks we took. The accommodation was fine, some places obviously better than other but overall the standard was great. I definitely felt catered for by the guide, it was good to have a rest day option and decisions were made by a group consensus".

"Thoroughly enjoyable break - met all my expectations. Additional information and enthusiasm by Marian regarding geology enabled me to make sense of the area. I felt safe in her hands as I am a relatively inexperienced walker. I was happy with the accommodation, I hadn't been to YHA's for a long time but much has changed so I was happy with the standard. I really enjoyed the break and will certainly book again". Tanya

"I enjoyed the holiday very much. It met and even exceeded my expectations and I felt I got a real 'feel' for the Lake District, the different weather conditions and the challenges of the mountains. Black Sail YH was a real treat and the couple who ran it were very hospitable. Bunks are not ideal but that is what I expected in a YH. They were clean, comfortable and the food good. Marian looked after us well and was natural and friendly. She was very cautious and made safe and sensible decisions".

"The holiday was really enjoyable in so many ways: the scenery, the routes and walks, the company, the accommodation and the food. Expectations all exceeded and Marian was a wonderful guide". Alicia

"This was my first group holiday so I was a little fearful! However, I've had a great time. The other women in the group were friendly but discreet and the walking was excellent. The guide was excellent. She was really knowledgeable about the geology/geography of the area, which really added to the walks. She chose a good walk for the 'rest day', after consulting us about what we wanted to do". Helen

"Had a great time and looking forward to booking next". Alison

"I loved every day! Better than I had suspected. The ladies were all very nice, as was Marian. The accommodations were fine, all the hostels were up to date. Better than when I stayed in them fifty years ago! The food is top class".

"This was my first WalkingWomen experience - I really enjoyed it and feel it will be the start of a long relationship".


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