For this holiday in the striking Rila and Pirin Mountains of Bulgaria we flew from Gatwick and Manchester with Bulgaria Air.

The Gatwick women arrived first and were transfered with Lati to Victoria Hotel in the small Rila resort of Borovets. Nelly and I waited for the delayed Manchester flight - and they all arrived with Sue, none the worse for the delay.

We all met up at dinner - down in the cosy 'cave' of the Victoria hotel, followed by a chat from Lati and I about plans for the holiday, tomorrow's walks etc. Soon after that we were all in bed.

Light rain first thing, followed by clouds and sun as we set off for Maljovitsa valley.

From the start of our walk we could see Maljovitsa Peak ahead up the valley (the far right of the photo - the high goal for the day).

The first stretch of the walk was up an easy path to a hut, steadily ascending the valley beside a pretty rushing stream.

After a short break at the hut the High walk set off first, climbing a rockier track to the 'first terrace' then the 'second terrace' to arrive in a bowl almost surrounded by mountains.

From here they ascended a steep path with a short scramble to reach a second corrie with a beautiful corrie lake.

And on again - climbing steadily and steeply, they finally reached the summit (a climb of 1300m) with superb if misty views all around.

The Intermediate walk had meantime continued on from the hut to the second terrace, crossing streams, and balancing on the scree that littered the path.

From our lunch spot on the second terrace we could sometimes see (through binoculars) the high walkers working their way up the valley side.

Turning back from our goals we all descended down the valley again to our two waiting minibuses - stoppping for a drink at the hut on the way.

The Intermediate walkers, arriving first, had the time to stop at Sumova town on the way back to the hotel - to buy lots of fresh fruit in the market and other goodies, and have a drink at a roadside cafe.

Dinner was followed by a briefing about the next day's walk - weather permitting - and a look at the day's impressive photos.

A cloudy start - and today's forecast was not brilliant (rain and thunderstorms) - but in fact we had a superb day!

Since it wasn't actually raining or thundery we set off for Musala (the highest mountain in Bulgaria and in the entire Balkan Peninsula at 2925m).

To get to our starting point we took the gondola lift up from Borovets, and contoured from there to a hut, then started up towards Musala peak.

The surrounding terrain was very rocky - plenty of scree from the surrounding ridges.

The path was dotted with lovely lakes - 5 in total - including the Ice Lake near to the highest hut.

Today we split into 3 groups: Intermediate with me, Slow High with Nelli and Sue, and High level with Lati.

Musala is good for a Slow High peak as the total amount of ascent was approximately 700m although longer than yesterday's walk in distance and higher in altitude.

The Intermediate walk was aiming for the Ice Lake, passing several beautiful lower lakes on the way as our path wound in and out of the scree.

From the Ice Lake hut where we stopped for our lunch, we could see the Slow High on their ascent of Musala and nearing the top.

The High group had meantime made it to the top where the wind was quite cold, so with 'bad weather' clouds coming in, they waited for the Slow High group then started down.

During the way back to the first hut, the weather just improved and improved until we had uninterupted sun.

There was time for a stop by one of the lakes - so much for today's weather forecast!

A long walk today. We set off in our minibuses after breakfast to climb to the Seven Lakes Valley (Sedemte Jezero).

This is one of the favourite walks in the Rila mountains, and Nelly even encountered her dearest friend headed in the same direction as we made our way down through the woods.

The woods were full of wild raspberries which were duly scrumped at every opportunity!

We stopped for a short break at the first hut, then split into High Level and a temporarily combined Slow High and Intermediate group for the next section.

From here we started climbing through the woods on tracks muddy from rain in the night - though for us the sun was shining down through the trees.

After a long walk up through the woods we reached a second hut.

The lentil soup and natural sheep's yogurt there had almost universal appeal. So while the High group trekked on, the rest of us had a first lunch break.

From here we climbed even more steeply up through the trees, spotting a nutcracker and what we think might have been a greater spotted woodpecker on the way.

At some point our path started to traverse high above a river valley until finally we emerged from the now dwarf pines to see the river almost on our level.

The Intermediate and Slow High had split by this point, and the Intermediate group and I decided on a short break next to a lovely waterfall.

Meanwhile the High walk had reached the 2nd Lake and the hut, and had walked on to 5th Lake.

The Slow High group stopped at the 1st Lake, effectively swapping places with the Intermediate group who climbed to the 2nd lake!

The 'down' was via another ridge which gave us views of our route for tomorrow, and superb views back to the valley and foothills of the Rila.

It was a long down the ridge through the trees - enlivened by lots of singing!

We reached our waiting minibuses at 6.30pm - a very welcome sight.

However the day wasn't over yet. That evening we went out to eat at a traditional Bulgarian restaurant in someone's beautifully decorated home.

Babalosa greeted us with a huge round loaf and a bowl of spices that we were invited to dip a hunk of bread into. We then had a delicious meal.

At one point Babalosa sang Bulgarian folk songs for us, after which we sang her an English folk song...

She took 4 women out of the room, and they re-appeared in National costume.

The clothes had a few extras - much enlarged busts, and in one case a spoon arranged to spring up and bang a plate whenever the wearer put her knees apart.

Hard to explain, but hilarious if you were there! We then joined in circle dancing and danced out into the yard before returning to eat our desserts!

Another big day today (11 miles with 800m of ascent and descent) - the day we walk to the Rila Monastery over the pass. The Rila Monastery is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The weather forecast was for low cloud, possibly rain and thunderstorms, but we hoped we could make it over the ridge before the weather deteriorated. For safety reasons we all walked as one group.

Meanwhile, 5 women had opted for a more resting day - spent the morning at the market in nearby Samokov, then had a lift in the minibuses to the Rila Monastery.

The rest of us set off from the Malyovitsa valley, climbing the valley side, then contouring through the woods for a while. A young stray dog couldn't be dissuaded from accompanying us.

Loosing height, we then climbed another small ridge and descended to start our main ascent.

After some time of steady 'up', we reached a lovely lake for a break, then it was up up up over steeper rockier ground towards the main ridge.

We reached it in cloud, and started down the other side to the first of 3 lovely lakes. The cloud disipated and we found ourselves in sunshine.

After lunch here, we had a gradual descending traverse to a broad saddle, following which we could turn down into the valley to our goal.

Down down down, past the Dry Lake, then on till we could finally zigzag down to the road and our waiting minibuses near a public camp site.

It was hard to leave our canine friend here, but we really had no option. We gave her any remaining food we had and hoped she would join another group back to her known territory.

A short drive took us to our hotel next to the Rila monastery ready to visit it the next day.

After quick showers we met up in the hotel's garden bar before dinner.

Most of us then headed to bed pretty early - it had been a long but very enjoyable day!!

Today started with a well-deserved lie-in - till breakfast at 08.30!! Pancakes for breakfast, very nice.

At 09.30 we were meeting outside the hotel for a walk to St Ivan's cave.

St Ivan (or St John) founded the Rila Monastery, then lived as a hermit in the woods for the last years of his life.

Walking up through the trees to the cave was delightful on a sunny morning, and the cave itself was rather special - almost spiral-shaped with an exit through to the woods at a higher level.

Nearby was his holy spring where many people leave prayers written on pieces of paper squeezed between the stones.

The walk finished through the woods to the Rila Monastery.

We wandered through the cloisters - climbed to the tower where the oldest frescos are, walked around the church covered in frescos outside, and gilded icons and scuptures inside.

A superb, if short, visit. (Some women had also got up early to go to mass before breakfast to hear the monks singing).

We now drove for 5 minutes to a lovely riverside restaurant where we were served a delicious lentil soup followed by fresh trout (or a vegetarian alternative).

Our visit to Rila over, we now drove to the Rozhen Monastery near Melnik in the wine growing area of Bulgaria - a transfer of 2 hours.

One feature of the area is the amazing sandstone scenery, where sandstone has weathered into pinnacles, ridges and pyramids all around Melnik.

Rozhen Monastery was very different from Rila - smaller and less imposing, largely half-timbered, simple and peaceful.

Lati told us about the monastery, then we wandered around, spending time in the church looking at the frescos while a monk (one of only two at the monastery) prayed with a supplicant.

We were to walk back from here to Melnik via the sandstone pyramids, but fears the path was still eroded and tricky put some women off, and it was largely the high group who walked.

In fact, the path had been repaired since Lati last walked it, and it presented no real difficulties. They took some superb photos.

Shortly after the walkers returned we headed out to eat - in a nearby restaurant.

Melnik is a delightful place - once the thriving spiritual centre of this more southern region, lots of 'Revival' architecture, vines growing over courtyards, dirt streets, little cafes and restaurants....

We celebrated Nelly's birthday with another round of 'Happy Birthday' and a cake plus candle, followed by circle dancing till midnight!

This was to be the second of our more cultural resting days of the trip.

Breakfast on the hotel terrace in the morning sun was a total delight - plenty of fruit, toast, yogurt, cheese, black cherry jam!

We then went for a walk while the day was relatively cool, walking up to the old fortress on the hill behind Melnik with two good viewpoints over this large village.

After our walk we got ready to leave, and drove to the village of Breznitsa where the Rondopi and Pirin mountains meet.

At Breznitsa we were to visit women from the Muslim community in this area - seeing the textiles they make and also eating lunch there.

The women were very welcoming and were delighted that we were an all-women group.

After lunch they dressed Nelly up in traditional marriage clothes and told some of us how their different textiles were used culturally.

They showed us how they weave and spin, they sang to us.

Several of us bought beautiful socks or kaftans from them...

An EU project has been set up here to encourage this kind of tourism and so increase the prosperity of the minority Muslim communities in this very rural area - dating from the Turkish occupation.

(I'm not sure however if we will do this visit again next year - most women felt that more time in Melnik would be better).

We then drove to Bansko where we will spend the next three nights while walking in the Pirin mountains.

We checked into our new hotel - and had time to wander around the older part of Bansko before dinner.

Dinner was delicious - and we were serenaded by a gypsy band who regularly plays in the restaurant here.

Today - after a superb buffet breakfast, we drove to a chair lift that we would take up the mountainside to the first of our two Pirin walks.

Both groups started in the same direction from the lake at the top of the chair.

The High Level walk was headed for the Samodivska Pass (2500m) - a long walk which would bring them down into another valley nearer Bansko again.

From their route as they climbed towards the pass they could see Popovo Lake below them, and other small lakes nearby.

After crossing a boulder field and completing a last stiff climb to the pass they looked down into a new valley.

The views ahead were spectacular - looking down to another lake with mountains all around.

After lunch by the lake, they started down - walking beside the river, past more lakes, tackling a bouldery path, until finally they reached the treeline.

Lower still they stopped at a refuge, then finished the track to the minibus.

The Intermediate walk had meantime started with coffee at the top of the chairlift, then set off towards Popovo Lake which is the largest lake in the Pirin mountains.

This is a lovely walk with stunning views ahead to the lake and the high peaks all around.

On reaching Popovo lake we found a spot with both sun and shade near the water, and had a long lunch break (1.5 hours!). Some of us even dozed or read.

As we started back we met someone who said the chairlift stopped at 4.15 rather than 4.30, which put some pressure on our return ascent of 350m back to the lift.

The faster walkers were planning all sorts of tactics to get the chair to wait for the last walkers to arrive! (Involving chaining themselves, stories of broken legs - you name it!)

In fact we were in good time, and I bought cartons of juice to make up for the coffee that we had missed.

Back in Bansko, we had time to stroll into the centre of town again - stopping for a drink in one of the busy little bars close to the square.

That evening we ate at the hotel again while the gypsy band played.

Last walking day today, and after a good breakfast, we headed for Mt Vihren, the highest mountain in the Pirin Massif and 2nd highest in Bulgaria (2914m).

Both groups took the same path up the hillside from Vihren Hut.

The Intermediate walk was aiming for the saddle with stunning views between Vihren and the surrounding peaks, walking with Lati and me.

It was a steady 'up' for a while - then we contoured with superb views back to the head of the valley and down towards Bansko.

After a while, we rounded a shoulder and towering cliffs came into view above us.

More contouring then climbing brought us to a narrow ridge, which everyone managed easily.

We then contoured some more on a narrow rocky path until we gained the saddle.

Rounding a corner, Vihren came into view, with its sheer limestone cliff facing towards us.

After lunch in such striking surroundings, we headed back down from the saddle along a different path, zigzagging steeply to a meadow then entering dwarf pine woods.

Down down down we went until we reached the road and the minibuses.

Nearby there was an incredible 1300 year old pine tree which most of the group detoured to visit. Time for a cold drink at a nearby hut, then back to the hotel for a shower!

The High walk with Nelly and Sue had taken the same route to the saddle, then headed up from there to the summit.

Above the scree slope up from the saddle, they crossed steep grass then rock to the start of the scramble.

It took nearly 45 minutes of scrambling, then path, then more scrambling to reach the summit.

A very exciting route, with the reward of a 360 degree view over the whole Pirin range from the summit.

Sue had valiantly carried a watermelon up the whole way for a fruit-fest on the top!

They had lunch on the summit, then started down a different path - steep, rubbly for quite a while, then grassy from the shoulder.

One member of the group discovered Gin & Tonic at the refuge where they regained the road .... well, needless to say, another celebration followed!

That evening after dinner lots of women sat out drinking and chatting till the small hours...!

Today we had a later breakfast than usual, and there was a little time for shopping in Bansko before our 3 hour drive to Sofia (I finally got a photo of our drivers who have been a bit camera shy!)

A last night in Sofia is necessary to cope with the early Gatwick departure on the next morning.

However it also allows us a chance to see some of the sights of Bulgaria's capital - the oldest settlement in Europe.

Remains have been found under modern day Sofia that date back to 8000 years BC.

There are churches dating from 4th Century AD, and plenty of Roman excavations from before that.

After settling into our hotel - modern, clean, air-conditioned - we had a light lunch, then set off on our tour of the centre of Sofia with Lati. Nelly would rejoin us again for supper.

We started at the Cathedral with its striking gold cupolas shining in the sun, then saw the church of St Sofia - after which the city was named and part of which dates from the 4th century.

The plan was to keep the tour short, leaving everyone time to go back and visit what interested them most.

We wandered down the yellow brick road past the National Art Gallery and Ethnographic museum...

... and saw the Roman city walls in the subway near the government buildings and old Communist party office.

We saw another early church now standing in a courtyard surrounded by government ministries, and saw a relatively recent statue of St Sofia.

Women had heard from Nelly that there was a friendly cafe worth visiting that is a nightclub at night - so after Lati finished the tour, most of us headed that way and had a relaxed drink in very convivial surroundings.

Many women wanted to see the Ethnographic museum. However, although supposedly open till 6.30pm, we found it had closed at 5.30pm - so we indulged in the souvenir shop there which is the best in the city according to Lati.

Some of us discovered some wonderful statues - mainly of women...

We then wandered back past the National Theatre towards the Cathedral...

... passing stalls selling memorabilia, crystals, lace, paintings - you name it, it was there!

At the Cathedral a service was in progress and a beautiful choir was singing. Most of us wandered in to listen until it was time to meet Lati & Nelly again.

From here it was only a short walk to our al fresco dinner restaurant.

After a last meal together it was finally time for Manchester and Gatwick women to bid each other goodbye - except for those going dancing regardless of their departure time!

The Gatwick flight was to leave at the crack of dawn, Manchester in the early afternoon leaving time for last minute purchases and strolls.

I'm not sure that this restaurant has seen so much hugging and goodbyes taking place in its forecourt before!

It had been a great holiday with fabulous, often challenging, walks, and a wonderful friendly group to share it with. Thank you.

(We are planning to run this Bulgaria trip as a High Alpine & Slow High holiday in 2008....!)