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WalkingWomen ------ ---Intermediate Whale Trail Intermediate Whale Trail 13-27 Aug |
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It was the first time we'd used a day flight for this holiday, and it prooved to be a good choice: time to get to know each other, talking, snoozing, reading, watching a film.. We arrived in the evening, and were driven by minibus to Brenwin Guest House in Cape Town where we settled into our comfortable rooms. We could now have a good night's sleep before our first full day. |
14th August
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Ros joined us for a leisurely breakfast at the guest house, then led us down to the V&A Waterfront nearby. ![]() We wandered through this superbly restored dock area and several of the group took the opportunity for souvenir shopping. ![]() The weather was cloudy and we could see that Table Mountain was covered in cloud. ![]() Some of us visited the Aquarium to see what lives off this coast where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() A short drive through Cape Town brought us to the start of the afternoon's walk around Lion's Head. ![]() Lion's Head is a sandstone rock mass overlooking Cape Town which affords good views of Table Mountain, Camps Bay & Clifton. ![]() We set off along the path, taking in different views as we circled around Lion's Head. ![]() As the walk progressed, the 12 Apostles came in to view - rock formations that extend behind the Table itself. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Throughout the walk we encountered many species of wild flowers in bloom. ![]() The area is covered in fynbos, vegetation restricted to the Western Cape region typified by Proteus, Ericas & Restios species. ![]() ![]() A pair of Franklin accompanied us as we continued the circular walk. ![]() We got occasional views of the 'Lion' above us before descending back to the start of the walk again. In the evening we went out to eat in Cape Town and had a very enjoyable meal. |
15th August
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Today's walk took us along the Contour path, starting under Table Mountain and Devil's Peak, and finishing in the World Heritage Site of Kirstenbosch Gardens. ![]() Though views across Cape Town to Signal Hill were clear when we started, above us Table Mountain was still in cloud. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() We ascended through silverwood trees to the path, we gained panoramic views of Cape Town and Table Bay below. Looking upwards towards Table Mountain we saw Patterklip Gorge - one of the descents from Table Mountain. ![]() ![]() The path hugged the mountainside as we passed through woodland, waterfalls and traversed streams, all generally delighting in the exotic flora and fauna seen en route. ![]() ![]() ![]() After lunch, the route took us over boulder fields before steeply descending to the magnificent Kirstenbosch Gardens where tea & cake were most welcome! ![]() ![]() |
16th August
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Today we didn't walk, but instead took a Township Tour with the firm, Grassroots. This started with a visit to the District Six Museum - an excellent museum on the history of Cape Town during the Apartheid era. ![]() ![]() The museum portrays life under the Apartheid regime whereby 60,000 people were forcibly evicted from their homes to make a 'white-only' area. (In fact, the bulldozing of District 6 was so contested that no white-only homes were never built). ![]() From here we were driven around some of the townships and shanty towns on the edge of Cape Town. ![]() ![]() Experiencing Lange township and Khayalitsha shanty town was a thought-provoking and humbling experience for most of us. ![]() We learnt that poverty does not diminish the spirit or hope of these very dignified people. ![]() 'Golden' sculpted flowers from used soft drinks cans, Rosie's soup kitchen provided a welcome meal for adults and school children alike.... ![]() ![]() ![]() We had lunch was at Vicky's B&B where we were treated to an impromptu singing session by the ladies awaiting their soup that day. ![]() ![]() ![]() Afterwards, a short ferry journey took us to Robben Island just off the coast. ![]() ![]() Here we had a fascinating tour of the island as well as looking round the disused maximum-security prison, once home to anti-apartheid political prisoners including, of course, Nelson Mandela. ![]() Our tour guide was a former inmate, and amongst other things we saw Nelson Mandela's prison cell. ![]() 45,000 African penguins also share the island! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Continuing the African theme, we ate at an authentic African restaurant that evening. |
17th August
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Cape Town to Potburg
![]() ![]() At midday, we departed along the coast via Hermanus to Potburg Hut - the start of the De Hoope Nature Reserve Whale Trail. ![]() ![]() ![]() We quickly unpacked, settled into the hut, and got the braai (BBQ) going inside the very well-appointed hut. ![]() ![]() For the next 5 nights we would stay in such huts along the Whale Trail, with our luggage taken to the next hut each day by National Park workers... |
18th August
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Potburg Hut to Cupidoskraal Hut.
![]() ![]() We climbed steadily towards the ridge and gained spectacular views over the De Hoope Nature Reserve, breeding ground of the Cape vulture. ![]() From the ridge we could see the Breede River meandering below us - and we caught our first glimpse of the Indian Ocean. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The walk now continued on the higher ground passing many species of flowers along our way. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() At lunch time we descended to a lovely riverside spot for a break. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() A short walk followed and we arrived at Cupiskraal Hut by mid-afternoon. There was plenty of time to swim in the near-by dam or simply relax on the terrace. |
19th August
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Cupiskraal Hut to Noetsie Hut.
![]() ![]() Descending the escarpment the vegetation changed as sandstone gave way to limestone. ![]() ![]() ![]() Throughout the walk the flowers of the fynbos were spectacular - they are adapted to periodic managed fires to help sustain their regeneration. ![]() Our trail took us steadily towards the coast, and by lunch time we were overlooking the Indian Ocean in the distance. ![]() This stretch of the Indian Ocean is home to the Southern Right whale at this time of year. ![]() ![]() Here they mate, give birth and rear their young between July and November. ![]() Approaching Noetsie hut was magnificent - a rocky shoreline with the hut nestled below the hills. ![]() ![]() ![]() A free afternoon was spent excitedly watching the whales few hundred meters off-shore from the hut. ![]() |
20th August
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Noetsie Hut to Hammerkop Hut.
![]() Other wildlife included dassies, white-breasted cormorants and Klipspringer. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Continuing on, we had lunch at Stilgat, an area of rock pools and caves reached by wooden ladders time for a cooling dip! ![]() ![]() ![]() Passing many points of interest, we left the rock face to reach the beautiful sandy beach leading to Hammerkop Hut. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Our luggage was being brought to the hut as we arrived. But apart from the national park worker, we had the whole beach to ourselves! ![]() More evening whale-watching from the balcony, wine glass in one hand, binoculars in the other! An utterly fabulous day! |
21st August
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Hammerkop Hut to Valkraans Hut.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() We walked to an area of blow-holes-water jets upwards through holes in cave roof - and stopped for lunch. ![]() ![]() ![]() Cormorants nested on near-by rocks. ![]() ![]() ![]() Approaching the hut, the path became coastal again affording great views of the wave-sculpted rock platforms and caves. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
22nd August
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Valkraans Hut to the end of the trek
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Rare Black Oystercatchers seemed to follow our route. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() All the time we witnessed the whales in the bays tail-slapping, breaching and fin-waving. ![]() It was sad to arrive at the end of the trail. However, we were now given a lift back to Potburg via the De Hoope Nature Reserve by park transport. ![]() On our drive back we saw Cape zebra, baboons, ostrich, Grays Rhebok and Blue Crane - South Africa's national bird. ![]() It was a great way to finish the Whale Trail. ![]() From Potberg we drove to Hermanus - a whale watching resort back towards Cape Town. Here we stayed at the Windsor Hotel on the sea front, and ate out at Annie's Restaurant - authentic SA fare. |
23rd August
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Today we had a whole day in Hermanus as we were to stay here again for one more night. ![]() Some women explored the local shops in the morning while others walked through the near-by Fernkloof Nature Reserve. ![]() We got lovely views over Hermanus and were treated to more flowers of the fynbos. ![]() Most of us wanted to take an afternoon whale-watching trip. ![]() So Ferdinand, our kind driver, took us to Pearl Bay where we saw numerous Southern Right whales amidst the rough sea & rolling swells! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() On the way back we passed Dyer Island, home to 60,000 Cape fur seals. ![]() We made the return journey thrilled and exhilarated to have seen such wildlife at close quarters. That night we ate out again - our last night before returning to Cape Town. |
24th August
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Our coastal journey back to Cape Town took us via Boulders, home to indigenous African penguins. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() On reaching Cape Point, a short walk brought us fantastic views in all directions, especially of Cape Point itself. ![]() ![]() ![]() A traverse around the headland led to the Cape of Good Hope, the most SW point of the African continent. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() We celebrated our final evening together at a restaurant in Camps Bay, just outside Cape Town - and had a great evening! |
25th August
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Cape Town.
![]() ![]() A clear, sunny morning heralded a walk on Table Mountain via the cable car - wonderful views of Cape Town below, Lions Head & towards Cape Point. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
We walked to Maclear's Beacon, the highest point at 3,549 feet before descending to spend a free afternoon in Cape Town. ![]() ![]() The end of a fabulous holiday - a sentiment shared by one and all. |
Women's Feedback
"This was a fantastic holiday. There are many visual images that will stay in my mind - particularly the coastal scenery, the long sandy beaches, spectacular rock formations, huge crashing waves and of course, the awesome sight of whales and their calves. A big thank you to Ros for sharing her culture and country with such enthusiasm and to Marcelle for her organisation and perceptiveness on the walks. And to other participants for their friendliness, support and humour. I would definitely recommend this holiday. It more than met my expectations".
"Superb holiday - varied and exciting experiences. I've not smiled so much at beauty of laughed so much in a long time". Jeanette
"A hugely enjoyable holiday enhanced with good weather. To be able to leave civilisation behind for five days on the trail was an unforgettable experience. Staying in the trail cottages brings the group together in a special way. The 'wow' factor was with us all the way".
"Exceeded all expectations. Great group of people - two fantastic guides. Stunning scenery and fabulous walks and loads of whales and other flora and fauna. Enough superlatives? I thoroughly enjoyed it and even the weather was kind to us. No problems" Sheila.
"Fantastic holiday - a once in a lifetime experience for me. My fourth WalkingWomen holiday and I will be back for more. Once again a lovely group of women who were very helpful, supportive and great fun to be with" Marlyn.
"The holiday was fantastic. A great experience both from the point of seeing the whales and also the whole South African experience. The accommodation was excellent, both in Cape Town and Hermanus. On trek it was just trekking in luxury".
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