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------ ---Intermediate Whale Trail




Intermediate Whale Trail 13-27 Aug
with Ros & Marcelle



13th August

View as we wait for our flight.For this South African holiday we flew to Cape Town on a KLM day flight, leaving Heathrow early in the morning, landing briefly in Amsterdam, then flying on to Cape Town.

It was the first time we'd used a day flight for this holiday, and it prooved to be a good choice: time to get to know each other, talking, snoozing, reading, watching a film..

We arrived in the evening, and were driven by minibus to Brenwin Guest House in Cape Town where we settled into our comfortable rooms. We could now have a good night's sleep before our first full day.



. .

14th August

Brenwin pool and garden.Cape Town

Ros joined us for a leisurely breakfast at the guest house, then led us down to the V&A Waterfront nearby.

Walking at the V&A Waterfront.


We wandered through this superbly restored dock area and several of the group took the opportunity for souvenir shopping.

At the Waterfront.


The weather was cloudy and we could see that Table Mountain was covered in cloud.

Table Mountain covered in cloud.



Some of us visited the Aquarium to see what lives off this coast where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet.

Star fish.

Spiny sea urchin.






Another star fish.








Shark.Penguins.


A ray.








Driving through Cape Town.

A short drive through Cape Town brought us to the start of the afternoon's walk around Lion's Head.

Driving to the start of the Lions Head walk.


Lion's Head is a sandstone rock mass overlooking Cape Town which affords good views of Table Mountain, Camps Bay & Clifton.

Cape Town & Table Mountain from Lions Head path.

We set off along the path, taking in different views as we circled around Lion's Head.

The Twelve Apostles.




As the walk progressed, the 12 Apostles came in to view - rock formations that extend behind the Table itself.

Flowers near the Lions Head path.Devils Peak from the Lions Head path.








Clifton.


Throughout the walk we encountered many species of wild flowers in bloom.

Lions Head.


The area is covered in fynbos, vegetation restricted to the Western Cape region typified by Proteus, Ericas & Restios species.

Franklin.


A pair of Franklin accompanied us as we continued the circular walk.







We got occasional views of the 'Lion' above us before descending back to the start of the walk again.

In the evening we went out to eat in Cape Town and had a very enjoyable meal.



.

15th August

View from the start of the Contour Path.Cape Town

Today's walk took us along the Contour path, starting under Table Mountain and Devil's Peak, and finishing in the World Heritage Site of Kirstenbosch Gardens.

Table Mountain was in cloud.




Though views across Cape Town to Signal Hill were clear when we started, above us Table Mountain was still in cloud.

View from the start of our walk. Group photo.








Looking out over Cape Town.View out over Table Bay from the Contour Path.








Looking up Patterklip Gorge - one of the descents of Table Mountain.

We ascended through silverwood trees to the path, we gained panoramic views of Cape Town and Table Bay below.

Looking upwards towards Table Mountain we saw Patterklip Gorge - one of the descents from Table Mountain.


The path hugged the mountainside as we passed through woodland, waterfalls and traversed streams, all generally delighting in the exotic flora and fauna seen en route.

One of the waterfalls we passed.



Crossing the boulder field.Walking through the forest.






After lunch, the route took us over boulder fields before steeply descending to the magnificent Kirstenbosch Gardens where tea & cake were most welcome!

A waterfall before descending to Kirstenbosch.


.

16th August

Inside District 6 museum.Cape Town

Today we didn't walk, but instead took a Township Tour with the firm, Grassroots.

This started with a visit to the District Six Museum - an excellent museum on the history of Cape Town during the Apartheid era.

The Map of District 6.








The museum portrays life under the Apartheid regime whereby 60,000 people were forcibly evicted from their homes to make a 'white-only' area. (In fact, the bulldozing of District 6 was so contested that no white-only homes were never built).

Khayalitsha shanty town.

From here we were driven around some of the townships and shanty towns on the edge of Cape Town.

Meeting children in the former township.




Experiencing Lange township and Khayalitsha shanty town was a thought-provoking and humbling experience for most of us.

Flowers made out of old cans.

We learnt that poverty does not diminish the spirit or hope of these very dignified people.

Children in the former townships.



'Golden' sculpted flowers from used soft drinks cans, Rosie's soup kitchen provided a welcome meal for adults and school children alike....

A shanty home.
Vickys B&B.Impromptu singing session.







We had lunch was at Vicky's B&B where we were treated to an impromptu singing session by the ladies awaiting their soup that day.

Impromptu singing session.
Impromptu singing session.







Taking the boat to Robben Island.


Afterwards, a short ferry journey took us to Robben Island just off the coast.

Lions Head from the boat.



A talk from one of the museum wardens.




Here we had a fascinating tour of the island as well as looking round the disused maximum-security prison, once home to anti-apartheid political prisoners including, of course, Nelson Mandela.

Listening to an account of the prison.

Our tour guide was a former inmate, and amongst other things we saw Nelson Mandela's prison cell.

Nelson Mandelas cell.


45,000 African penguins also share the island!




Penguins share the island.








Eating out at an African restaurant in the evening.





Continuing the African theme, we ate at an authentic African restaurant that evening.



.

17th August

Cape Town to Potburg

Table Mountain from the Waterfront.Today we had a free morning in Cape Town. It was a beautiful day and Table Mountain was clear of cloud. We mainly spent time at the Waterfront.

Devils Peak from the Waterfront.




View of the mountains along our route.



At midday, we departed along the coast via Hermanus to Potburg Hut - the start of the De Hoope Nature Reserve Whale Trail.



Potberg Hut.






The hut at the start of the Whale Trail.


We quickly unpacked, settled into the hut, and got the braai (BBQ) going inside the very well-appointed hut.

Evening meal at Potberg Hut.




Evening meal at Potberg Hut.



For the next 5 nights we would stay in such huts along the Whale Trail, with our luggage taken to the next hut each day by National Park workers...



.

18th August

Potburg Hut to Cupidoskraal Hut.

Starting out through the nature reserve.The next morning, early, we set out through the fynbos towards the ridge we must cross.

Heading out through the reserve.





Walking through the fynbos.


We climbed steadily towards the ridge and gained spectacular views over the De Hoope Nature Reserve, breeding ground of the Cape vulture.

Lichen covered rocks on the ridge.

From the ridge we could see the Breede River meandering below us - and we caught our first glimpse of the Indian Ocean.

Breede River.


Breede river plain.





A break on the ridge.


Everlasting flowers amongst the fynbos.





Walking on higher ground.


The walk now continued on the higher ground passing many species of flowers along our way.




Walking along the ridge.Gladioli.





Beautiful flowers along our way.





Walking along the ridge.



At lunch time we descended to a lovely riverside spot for a break.

Lunch beside a stream.

Lunch stop.






Another lovely flower.









Reaching the hut.




A short walk followed and we arrived at Cupiskraal Hut by mid-afternoon. There was plenty of time to swim in the near-by dam or simply relax on the terrace.




.

19th August

Cupiskraal Hut to Noetsie Hut.

Setting off in the early morning light.This morning we left Cupiskraal hut and ascended Hammerkop as the sun burnt off the on-shore mist.

Heading towards the coast.








Walking through the fynbos.

Descending the escarpment the vegetation changed as sandstone gave way to limestone.

Ups and downs....








View inland.


Throughout the walk the flowers of the fynbos were spectacular - they are adapted to periodic managed fires to help sustain their regeneration.

Indian Ocean in the distance.

Our trail took us steadily towards the coast, and by lunch time we were overlooking the Indian Ocean in the distance.






This stretch of the Indian Ocean is home to the Southern Right whale at this time of year.

Ros Townsend - our local guide for all SA holidays.

Here they mate, give birth and rear their young between July and November.

Suddenly in view of the ocean & Noetsie Hut.






Approaching Noetsie hut was magnificent - a rocky shoreline with the hut nestled below the hills.

The Indian Ocean coast line.
Noetsie bay & Noetsie hut.







Noetsie bay.


A free afternoon was spent excitedly watching the whales few hundred meters off-shore from the hut.

Outside Noetsie Hut.




20th August

Noetsie Hut to Hammerkop Hut.

KlipspringerAfter an el fresco breakfast whale-watching, we left Noetsie Hut along the rocky, cliff path which allowed plenty of opportunity for whale-spotting.

Cormorants.




Other wildlife included dassies, white-breasted cormorants and Klipspringer.

Daasies (Rock Hydrax)

Fabulous stretches of cliffs.






Marcelle.




Walking along the cliff path.Another daasie.



Stopping to whale watch.









Continuing on, we had lunch at Stilgat, an area of rock pools and caves reached by wooden ladders time for a cooling dip!

Going down ladders to lunch at Stilgat beach.





Continuing along the coast path.



Bracing view.




Passing many points of interest, we left the rock face to reach the beautiful sandy beach leading to Hammerkop Hut.




Descending to the beach.








The long sandy beach leading to Hammerkop Hut.
Rocks with the beach beyond.







No one else for miles.
A pristine beach - just us and the waves.








Our luggage was being brought to the hut as we arrived. But apart from the national park worker, we had the whole beach to ourselves!

Hammerkop Hut.



More evening whale-watching from the balcony, wine glass in one hand, binoculars in the other! An utterly fabulous day!



21st August

Hammerkop Hut to Valkraans Hut.

We started our beach walk towards Valkraans hut in high spirits negotiating a few rocky outcrops on the way.

Walking along the beach.




Rocky outcrop shaped like a swan.








Looking back along the beach.



Walking along the beach.




Ros.Ros.













Whale tail.








We walked to an area of blow-holes-water jets upwards through holes in cave roof - and stopped for lunch.










Cormorants.



Cormorants nested on near-by rocks.

Stunning ocean.


Waterspouts.





Rock features.


Approaching the hut, the path became coastal again affording great views of the wave-sculpted rock platforms and caves.

Valkraans Hut.

Inside the hut brewing tea.






The cliff just below the hut.

View from outside the hut.


22nd August

Valkraans Hut to the end of the trek

Last view of Valkraans Hut.The final days walk led us back on to the sand where we weaved our way amongst the sandstone rocks.

Returning to the beach.




Returning to sea level.



A stormy sea.




Rare black oyster catchers.




Rare Black Oystercatchers seemed to follow our route.

Crossing the rocks.

Rare black oyster catchers.






Walking along the beach.


Ups and downs along the coast.





All the time we witnessed the whales in the bays tail-slapping, breaching and fin-waving.

Last view of the sea.


It was sad to arrive at the end of the trail. However, we were now given a lift back to Potburg via the De Hoope Nature Reserve by park transport.

Lots of baboons.




On our drive back we saw Cape zebra, baboons, ostrich, Grays Rhebok and Blue Crane - South Africa's national bird.

Ostrich.

It was a great way to finish the Whale Trail.

The Windsor Hotel, Hermanus.





From Potberg we drove to Hermanus - a whale watching resort back towards Cape Town. Here we stayed at the Windsor Hotel on the sea front, and ate out at Annie's Restaurant - authentic SA fare.



23rd August

Hermanus from Fernkloof.Hermanus

Today we had a whole day in Hermanus as we were to stay here again for one more night.

Walking in the Fernkloof nature reserve.


Some women explored the local shops in the morning while others walked through the near-by Fernkloof Nature Reserve.





We got lovely views over Hermanus and were treated to more flowers of the fynbos.

Ready to whale watch!

Most of us wanted to take an afternoon whale-watching trip.

Boarding the whale watching boat.


So Ferdinand, our kind driver, took us to Pearl Bay where we saw numerous Southern Right whales amidst the rough sea & rolling swells!

Whales up close.





























On the way back we passed Dyer Island, home to 60,000 Cape fur seals.




We made the return journey thrilled and exhilarated to have seen such wildlife at close quarters.

That night we ate out again - our last night before returning to Cape Town.




24th August

Indigenous African penguin.Cape Point

Our coastal journey back to Cape Town took us via Boulders, home to indigenous African penguins.







Boulders Beach.





At Cape Point.


On reaching Cape Point, a short walk brought us fantastic views in all directions, especially of Cape Point itself.




Cape Point.





Cape of Good Hope.





A traverse around the headland led to the Cape of Good Hope, the most SW point of the African continent.

At Cape Point.

View down to the sea.Marcelle & Ros.







View back towards Hermanus.





Walking to the Cape of Good Hope.


On the beach at Cape of Good Hope.





Marcelle.


Ros.





Cape of Good Hope.





Eating out in the evening.



We celebrated our final evening together at a restaurant in Camps Bay, just outside Cape Town - and had a great evening!

Eating out on last evening.


25th August

Cape Town.

Cable car up Table Mountain.Our flight would leave that evening, so we still had a full day left in Cape Town.

View over Cape Town.








Fab view over Cape Town.

A clear, sunny morning heralded a walk on Table Mountain via the cable car - wonderful views of Cape Town below, Lions Head & towards Cape Point.

Looking down on the Lions Head.Ros looking down on Cape Town.



Looking North East from Table Mountain.







Ros with Devils Peak behind.
Devils Peaks.








Walking to Maclears Beacon.

We walked to Maclear's Beacon, the highest point at 3,549 feet before descending to spend a free afternoon in Cape Town.

Walking to Maclears Beacon.





Woman on the Edge.



The end of a fabulous holiday - a sentiment shared by one and all.

Ros.


Women's Feedback

"This was a fantastic holiday. There are many visual images that will stay in my mind - particularly the coastal scenery, the long sandy beaches, spectacular rock formations, huge crashing waves and of course, the awesome sight of whales and their calves. A big thank you to Ros for sharing her culture and country with such enthusiasm and to Marcelle for her organisation and perceptiveness on the walks. And to other participants for their friendliness, support and humour. I would definitely recommend this holiday. It more than met my expectations".

"Superb holiday - varied and exciting experiences. I've not smiled so much at beauty of laughed so much in a long time". Jeanette

"A hugely enjoyable holiday enhanced with good weather. To be able to leave civilisation behind for five days on the trail was an unforgettable experience. Staying in the trail cottages brings the group together in a special way. The 'wow' factor was with us all the way".

"Exceeded all expectations. Great group of people - two fantastic guides. Stunning scenery and fabulous walks and loads of whales and other flora and fauna. Enough superlatives? I thoroughly enjoyed it and even the weather was kind to us. No problems" Sheila.

"Fantastic holiday - a once in a lifetime experience for me. My fourth WalkingWomen holiday and I will be back for more. Once again a lovely group of women who were very helpful, supportive and great fun to be with" Marlyn.

"The holiday was fantastic. A great experience both from the point of seeing the whales and also the whole South African experience. The accommodation was excellent, both in Cape Town and Hermanus. On trek it was just trekking in luxury".


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