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WalkingWomen ------ ---Gran Paradiso Gran Paradiso 22-29 July |
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From here we all had a transfer coach to our first accommodation at Noasca - a tiny village in the Orca valley of the Italian Western Alps. From here we would trek into Gran Paradiso NP - the oldest National Park in Italy - with our luggage taken ahead by lorry. ![]() The hotel had a change of management, and Sandro & Sabrina, our new hosts were very friendly and helpful. ![]() We had a drink outside the hotel, then a delicious array of home-cooked Italian dishes - including lots of vegetarian ones. After dinner some of us were tired and simply went to bed whilst others stayed up talking in the bar. |
23rd July
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Women decided whether they wanted to go on the Intermediate or High level walk. ![]() The Intermediate walk with me, Lorraine, took the old road up the valley - little more now than a track beside the River Orca. ![]() There were lots of wild raspberries and some strawberries to distract us, and we stopped by a river for an early first lunch, some women crossing to the other side. ![]() We then followed the main road for a short while before turning across a field and up along a lovely path that zig-zagged up the hillside, soon affording views across the Ceresole Reale valley. ![]() We saw orchids and picked lots of lovely sweet blueberries before stopping by a stream for second lunch. ![]() ![]() Continuing through the wood and then down the hill, we arrived at Le Fonti, our refugio for the night. ![]() Our bags had already arrived but we decided to head straight into the village and the ice cream and hot chocolate shop! ![]() Madeline had meantime taken
the ![]() As they climbed they admired the beautiful views at breaks in the trees, as well as all the flowers and insects on the way - between catching their breath that is! ![]() After a break at Maison, one of the villages, they continued on up towards the top of the valley and had our lunch at the waterfall in the Vallone del Roc. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Women paddled here - but no one swam. The water was just too cold! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() From the waterfall it was up up up again, (950m in total today for the high walk) till they reached the misty ridge. ![]() Their path then undulated along the hillside until they reached the little alp above Ceresole Reale. ![]() From here it was down down down, zigzagging through the trees to Le Fonti - our refuge for the night - just in time before the rain! ![]() Later that evening we had pizza in the restaurant below the refugio and some of the group found a guitar and stayed up singing an eclectic mix of songs! |
24th July
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![]() An early breakfast preceded our departure for the bus which took us a little way up the valley to Chiapili and the beginning of both walks.
I (Madeline) took the Intermediate walk today. A new path had been created up the valley - making it easier to follow our normal route of informal paths. We set off over a small wooden bridge across the river on our mini adventure to find this new path. ![]() It was relatively easy to find and took us right beside the river, over small log 'bridges', between impressive boulders and across lovely mountain meadows. ![]() Flowers here were wood cow-wheat, early autumn crocus, and plenty others. ![]() At one point we had to take a detour to avoid a group of cows and a bull - and then had elevenses beside a beautiful, but icy cold!, river pool - which one of us braved for a very quick dip.
We continued onwards through idyllic meadows and scattered woods and scrub, all the time taking in the views of high mountain ranges above us. ![]() ![]() Just after midday we started our ascent to Lago Serru and the terrain changed to a much drier grassland with scree. ![]() Flowers here were spotted gentian, Grass of Parnassus, field gentian, large-flowered houseleek, plus a fritillary butterfly. ![]() ![]() On this little-used path we suddenly came across a dead Ibex - a huge male that had very recently died just right beside our path. ![]() Pierre (at Le Fonti) later told me that he'd seen a herd of about 20 Ibex here the previous week . we don't know why or how it died. ![]() ![]() Moving ever upwards towards Lago Serru, we had our lunch on some rocks amidst the alpenrose. Looking back down the valley we'd just climbed we saw some chamois. ![]() ![]() ![]() After lunch we crossed an old glacial lake - now a marshland - taking in black vanilla orchid and alpine bistort as well as several marmots. ![]() ![]() We finally made it to the restaurant at Lago Serru, where we had a group photo and some much-needed coffee! ![]() ![]() Then we had a really fun ride up with the luggage lorry the rest of the way to the Rifugio Citta di Chivasso .!
Meanwhile, Lorraine had led the High level walk steeply up the hillside again through grass and rock. They saw several chamoix, then a small herd that seemed quite relaxed about their proximity. ![]() A beautiful golden eagle also flew low overhead! ![]() ![]() The views became more dramatic as they climbed higher and eventually reached the Royal Game Trail. From this point they could see Col de Terre - the high level goal of the penultimate day. ![]() The royal game trail is a wonderful path which contours along the side of the mountain with incredible views. ![]() ![]() ![]() Clouds gathered in the distance but seemed to keep missing them! ![]() After about an hour, they arrived at the first of two small lakes and a lovely swimming spot, however it was too chilly to indulge, while some ate their lunch, others just paddled. ![]() The last hour of the walk involved a switch-back path between the hairpins of the mountain road, then a superbly constructed rocky path over the hill behind the refuge. ![]() As they started to descend on the other side, Citta di Chivasso refuge at Col del Nivolet came into sight - our home for the next three nights. ![]() We all settled into our rooms, some of us in the 'heidi' loft room - up a ladder, the rest in the lower bunkroom. Mini the cook had returned after a less impressive cook last year, and we had a very lovely meal. We were in bed by refuge rules by 10pm! |
25th July
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![]() We had breakfast and then divided into Intermediate and High level for a day's 'acclimatisation walking' to adapt to the higher altitude. ![]() The Intermediate walk, a small but select group, went to the hidden Rosset valley with me, Lorraine. ![]() The valley is often missed by the day trippers and we had it to ourselves. It was stunningly beautiful, and there were many alpine flowers.
While looking for a place to cross the river we came across a marmot foraging for her breakfast. She seemed content to let us get quite close, remaining just out of reach, but happy for us to take photos. A wonderful treat! ![]() ![]() On the other side of the river we followed a path that took us above the top of a waterfall that plunges down to Largo Agnel. ![]() Further on we enjoyed the views down the Orca valley. We then returned through the hidden valley, negotiating a waterfall and steep grassy bank to reach an old military track which we followed into an impressive corrie below Nivoletta. Here we stopped for lunch. ![]() ![]() ![]()
From here we returned to the track and followed it round above Piano del Nivolet, across more streams, and headed to Largo Rossett, however the wind made it too cold to consider a dip. ![]() ![]() We then walked down to another refuge for teas and ice creams before returning to our refuge where we sat in the sun outside until another scrumptious dinner! ![]() The High level walk with Madeline had meanwhile set off along the side of Piano del Nivolet on an old military track, enjoying tremendous views across the valley - almost like walking into a film set! ![]() Lots of marmots whistled on the mountain slopes and bright flowers tucked into various nooks and crannies amidst the boulders: leapardsbane and deep blue, small gentians. ![]() They left the track, climbing up a small mountain path towards the hidden valley of Plan Borgnoz. ![]() ![]() ![]() We had elevenses in a stunning spot with views of the Gran Paradiso glacier and summit in the distance. ![]() Behind them lay the 'hidden' valley of Plan Borgnez - where they were delighted to spot 2 Lammergeiers flying high up, close to the mountain tops. ![]() These birds of prey are incredibly rare residents of high mountain ranges and are declining, with only c. 500 pairs left in Europe. ![]() Alessandro (our guardian at the refuge) later told us that a pair had recently come across from the French border and settled in the Gran Paradiso National Park. ![]() He explained how they pair for life and like to take their prey and drop them from height on to rocks to break them into pieces . Fantastic birds . ![]() Whilst here they had our lunch beside the glacial pool which was full of water crowfoot, lots of tadpoles, frogs and deep blue gentians, and also saw chamois in the valley. ![]() After lunch they tackled an unmarked path across the scree and boulders of the Coula Lombarda mountain, towards Lago Nero. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
A restful break beside Lago Nero where several swam (well some of them only managed a 10 second dip - but others managed to stay in for 20 minutes or so!). ![]() When they finally dragged themselves away from this lovely spot they came across creamy white Edelweiss - nearly in heaven at this point .. ![]() ![]() ![]() ...then made their way down to Rifugio Savoia for a much needed beer and ice cream before the short walk back to Rifugio Chivasso. ![]() C. di Chivasso refuge is very special. Beautifully maintained with views to die for, it is run by Alessandro and his 'boys' on solar power with water pumped from a nearby ice-melt lake. |
26th July
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![]() Today both groups followed the same route - at slow high & high level paces - up to Col de Lenir at just over 3000m. ![]() ![]() ![]() This is such a treat of a walk with views of Gran Paradiso and also Mont Blanc if you're lucky! ![]() ![]() ![]() Our journey first took us downwards and past a small pool, before starting to climb up towards Lago Rosset.
We soon left the mountain meadows and started zig-zagging up the bare scree - taking in small flowers like Mt Cenis bellflower, and purple saxifrage - and stopping frequently to enjoy the magnificent views from here and take photos. ![]() We stopped briefly for a quick snack to give us an energy boast before the last section. ![]() Some clouds had appeared in the distance and we didn't want to risk losing the views at the Col. The landscape was quite different at a higher altitude and the walking felt harder.
The high group reached the col by 11am, and the views made it all worth while - the cloud hadn't beaten us, Mont Blanc stood out perfectly on the horizon. ![]() It was difficult to take our eyes the incredible views as we ate our lunch. ![]() The Intermediate group (Slow High today!) arrived just as we were leaving. ![]() They too had fabulous views of Mont Blanc as they sat for at least an hour, eating their lunch and drinking up the views and mountain sunshine. ![]() ![]() Both groups detoured on their way back down to take in the ridge overlooking the Tre Becchi lakes and Lago Nero. ![]() From here they were looking straight down the valley at Gran Paradiso.
Further down they met up again beside Lago Leyta where some brave souls ventured into the water... then walked back together to the refuge, sitting outside in the sun until dinner. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() It was one woman's birthday, so after the meal the staff at the refuge surprised her with some candles around her dessert. ![]() They also provided three complimentary bottles of wine - they are so kind here! |
27th July
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![]() It was hard saying goodbye to the beautiful views and peaceful atmosphere of the refuge. ![]() However we were soon on our way, leaving behind the jagged teeth of Rocce del Nivolet as we headed back over the hill above Col del Nivolet. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Both groups were to start off today along the Royal Game Trail path, then their routes would diverge part way along. ![]() The High walk with Lorraine would head higher over Col della Terra, while the Intermediate walk with Madeline would head down to Chiapilli refuge in the valley below. ![]() The Intermediate walk took their time along the Royal Game Trail as it contoured the steep mountain slopes with stunning views down into the valley. ![]() Lots of flowers again as they had elevenses overlooking the mountain range opposite - beyond which lay France! ![]() Then they left this old hunting and game keepers track and started zig-zagging down the mountain meadows - coming across sturdy, stone-built cattle and sheep shelters on the way.
They had lunch on the slopes, before continuing their relatively gentle meander down into the valley - taking in more views, waterfalls, and flowers - including fragrent orchids and bee orchids. ![]() They stopped several times but it was too hot to stay long - and some improvised various ways of getting more shade. ![]() Finally they reached the small road in the bottom of the valley and walked back to Rifugio Mezia at Chiapili di sotto - where they stayed inside (out of the hot sun!) for ice creams. ![]() The valley bus took them back to Le Fonti - arriving before the high level group who had a bigger day today... ![]() The High level walk had continued along the Game Trail with me, Lorraine, contouring and climbing the path to Colle della Terra. ![]() It was hot and we took our time walking up to the Colle as the path got steeper and steeper. ![]() However the reward made the effort all worth while when we got tremendous views and a light breeze at the top. ![]() We detoured to the cairn at the ridge for photos before taking the the zig zag path down to the turquoise waters of Lago Lillet where we had lunch. ![]() ![]() ![]() Our descent was a knee-shaking 1,300m down rocky paths with big step downs; the valley did not seem to get any closer! ![]() We took a short rest half way down by a water fall and then carried on, determined to get to the road in time for the bus. ![]() Thankfully the last section was in the trees, providing much welcomed shade. ![]() ![]() ![]() We had time for beers and ice creams in the shop near to the bus stop. ![]() Dinner at Le Fonti that evening was preceded by drinks outside and followed by a sing-along to the guitar again! |
28th July
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![]() We posed for a photo for the owner of Le Fonti following which both groups zigzagged up through the woods at their different paces. ![]() Both groups walked up at different paces through the woods along the zigzag path to the little alp - 500m of ascent. ![]() ![]() ![]() The Intermediate walk was then to retrace the first day's High route back to the waterfall, and through the deserted villages... ![]() We took our time and reached a grassy plateau where we sat in the shade for elevenses and saw a lizard, before heading east, contouring and gently descending on the lovely path along the side of the mountain. ![]() Then it was down down down through the woods and undergrowth to the valley with a waterfall at its end. ![]() However, the shade at the bridge tempted us more as we could sit in shad with our toes in the water! ![]() After lunch we walked through the series of old summer villages, mainly unused now, although some are being restored, and many have beautiful frescos on their walls. ![]() We were able to cool our heads under the water piped to the animal troughs. ![]() ![]() The final section followed a cobbled path down through woods back to Noasca - where cold beers and hot showers waited! ![]() The High level walk with Madeline had meantime headed higher from the alp above Ceresole, heading up the open hillside to Colle Sia. ![]() After a long haul they finally reached the col and had a small break on the ridge, enjoying the rest and the magnificent mountain views. ![]() From there they took a wonderful contour path high above the Vallone del Roc where the rest of us were walking. ![]() ![]() ![]() At the head of the valley they crossed the outlet of an old glacial lake high up in the mountains and surrounded by steep scree slopes. ![]() A herd of cows were also enjoying the summer grazing there - and the group ate their lunch, enjoying the seclusion and attending to hot feet!! ![]() ![]() After lunch they continued along the contour path, now bordered by a riot of different flowers before finally crossing a small wooden bridge and reaching King Emanuel's old hunting lodge (now a research station within the National Park). ![]() ![]()
Here they re-filled theirs waterbottles from the spring, then started their 1400m descent to Noasca. ![]() On the way down they stopped at the waterfalls of Torronte Gran Piano which offered an icy jacuzzi!! ![]() ![]() ![]() Part way down they saw their last marmots of the holiday, then rejoined the final zigzags down into Noasca. ![]() That evening, after another wonderful and very filling dinner, some women played table football.... ![]() ![]() ... while the rest of us shared stories of the day's walks. |
29th July
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The coach to the airport arrived at midday, and later from the plane we had great views over Lago di Ceresole and all the Gran Paradiso ranges on our way home - the perfect end to a great alpine holiday! |
Here are some of the flowers and butterflies we saw over this week:
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Women's Feedback
"Had a great time, really fab holiday. Beautiful scenery. Good walks, heaps of fun".
"Enjoyed greatly. Exceeded my expectations. No problems".
"It was very good: accommodation was clean and pleasant, walking was spectacular, guides were lovely, food was excellent, group was universally supportive and non cliquey".
"I came on my own and really enjoyed the holiday. Good to have a choice of walks, enjoyed high level, both guides were very helpful & professional".
"Fantastic! Was much better than I thought and more! Too short that is probably just me wanting more!"
"Lorraine and Madeline were great at finding us and welcoming us at Luton. I very much enjoyed the walking, evening meals and mixed company. Sleeping in dorms was challenging but met my expectations - all part of the experience".
"Fabulous! Beautiful area. It more than met my expectations. Very well organised. Great walks and hotels and refuges. Absolutely fantastic guides! Brilliant, informative and encouraging".
"I've had a great holiday -challenging and interesting walks in beautiful scenery, good company and friendly, relaxed (but well organised) leaders. The week had been well thought-out and it was good also to have some flexibility. The holiday exceeded my expectations!" Margaret
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