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WalkingWomen
------ ---Gran Paradiso




Gran Paradiso 22-29 July
with Lorraine & Madeline



22nd July

Drinks outside Albergo Gran Paradiso in Noasca.Some women met up at Luton Airport while others had enjoyed a day or so in Turin beforehand and met us at Turin Airport.

From here we all had a transfer coach to our first accommodation at Noasca - a tiny village in the Orca valley of the Italian Western Alps.

From here we would trek into Gran Paradiso NP - the oldest National Park in Italy - with our luggage taken ahead by lorry.

Albergo Gran Paradiso in the early morning.

The hotel had a change of management, and Sandro & Sabrina, our new hosts were very friendly and helpful.

A delicious dinner served by Sandro & Sabina.

We had a drink outside the hotel, then a delicious array of home-cooked Italian dishes - including lots of vegetarian ones.

After dinner some of us were tired and simply went to bed whilst others stayed up talking in the bar.




23rd July

Chat about the high walk of the day from Madeline.This morning we woke to a mix of sunshine and mountain mist and started the day with a good selection of bread, cakes, chocolate croissants and coffee etc.

Women decided whether they wanted to go on the Intermediate or High level walk.

Intermediate walk sets off.

The Intermediate walk with me, Lorraine, took the old road up the valley - little more now than a track beside the River Orca.

A pause beside the river Orca.



There were lots of wild raspberries and some strawberries to distract us, and we stopped by a river for an early first lunch, some women crossing to the other side.

Crossing the river which was very low.

We then followed the main road for a short while before turning across a field and up along a lovely path that zig-zagged up the hillside, soon affording views across the Ceresole Reale valley.

Zigzagging up the hillside.





We saw orchids and picked lots of lovely sweet blueberries before stopping by a stream for second lunch.

Pausing for the view.
Second lunch with a misty view.







Continuing through the wood and then down the hill, we arrived at Le Fonti, our refugio for the night.

Le Fonti Refuge next to the Orca River. (Dot Potts)


Our bags had already arrived but we decided to head straight into the village and the ice cream and hot chocolate shop!

High walk heads up the hillside from Noasca.


Madeline had meantime taken the
High level walk, climbing the hillside through woodland towards a series of deserted summer villages.



As they climbed they admired the beautiful views at breaks in the trees, as well as all the flowers and insects on the way - between catching their breath that is!

The church at Maison - still used at festivals.

After a break at Maison, one of the villages, they continued on up towards the top of the valley and had our lunch at the waterfall in the Vallone del Roc.

A break at Maison.




Campanula.



Vallone del Roc waterfall.




A beautiful waterfall.




Women paddled here - but no one swam. The water was just too cold!



A break for lunch beside the waterfall.






Up up up again through the woods.




A break at the ridge.



From the waterfall it was up up up again, (950m in total today for the high walk) till they reached the misty ridge.

Walking to the little alp in the mist.

Their path then undulated along the hillside until they reached the little alp above Ceresole Reale.

Snug in Le Fonti rifugio.


From here it was down down down, zigzagging through the trees to Le Fonti - our refuge for the night - just in time before the rain!

An eclectic mix of songs.



Later that evening we had pizza in the restaurant below the refugio and some of the group found a guitar and stayed up singing an eclectic mix of songs!




24th July

Crocus.Gorgeous sunshine greeted us in the morning - after a heavy downpour of rain during the night.






An early breakfast preceded our departure for the bus which took us a little way up the valley to Chiapili and the beginning of both walks.

Heading up the new Intermediate path.

I (Madeline) took the Intermediate walk today.

A new path had been created up the valley - making it easier to follow our normal route of informal paths. We set off over a small wooden bridge across the river on our mini adventure to find this new path.

Walking up the Orca valley.

It was relatively easy to find and took us right beside the river, over small log 'bridges', between impressive boulders and across lovely mountain meadows.

Detour necessary to get round the cows.

Flowers here were wood cow-wheat, early autumn crocus, and plenty others.

Icy pool - braved by one woman.



At one point we had to take a detour to avoid a group of cows and a bull - and then had elevenses beside a beautiful, but icy cold!, river pool - which one of us braved for a very quick dip.

A break by the pool.

We continued onwards through idyllic meadows and scattered woods and scrub, all the time taking in the views of high mountain ranges above us.

Walking up through fir woods.




Yellow gentian.



Just after midday we started our ascent to Lago Serru and the terrain changed to a much drier grassland with scree.

Starting up the head of the valley.



Flowers here were spotted gentian, Grass of Parnassus, field gentian, large-flowered houseleek, plus a fritillary butterfly.

Looking back the way we had come.








On this little-used path we suddenly came across a dead Ibex - a huge male that had very recently died just right beside our path.

Dead male ibex.

Pierre (at Le Fonti) later told me that he'd seen a herd of about 20 Ibex here the previous week…. we don't know why or how it died.

Enjoying the view back down the valley.



A break with a view.




Moving ever upwards towards Lago Serru, we had our lunch on some rocks amidst the alpenrose. Looking back down the valley we'd just climbed we saw some chamois.

Heading up and up!Heading up to Lago Serru.








Vanilla orchid.

After lunch we crossed an old glacial lake - now a marshland - taking in black vanilla orchid and alpine bistort as well as several marmots.

Looking at the flowers.






Group photo near Lago Serru.

We finally made it to the restaurant at Lago Serru, where we had a group photo and some much-needed coffee!

Getting into the luggage lorry.



A fun ride up the last stetch of the way.




Then we had a really fun ride up with the luggage lorry the rest of the way to the Rifugio Citta di Chivasso….!


Starting up from Ciapilli.

Meanwhile, Lorraine had led the High level walk steeply up the hillside again through grass and rock. They saw several chamoix, then a small herd that seemed quite relaxed about their proximity.

Heading up the Videsott path.



A beautiful golden eagle also flew low overhead!

Walking up and up...





Chamoix.


The views became more dramatic as they climbed higher and eventually reached the Royal Game Trail. From this point they could see Col de Terre - the high level goal of the penultimate day.



The royal game trail is a wonderful path which contours along the side of the mountain with incredible views.

Reaching the Game Trail - Colle della Terra in view.





Walking along the Royal Game Trail.





Walking along the Game Trail.


Clouds gathered in the distance but seemed to keep missing them!

Reaching the first of the lakes below Col del Nivolet.


After about an hour, they arrived at the first of two small lakes and a lovely swimming spot, however it was too chilly to indulge, while some ate their lunch, others just paddled.

A break by the lake for lunch.

The last hour of the walk involved a switch-back path between the hairpins of the mountain road, then a superbly constructed rocky path over the hill behind the refuge.

Reaching the Citta di Chivasso refuge.


As they started to descend on the other side, Citta di Chivasso refuge at Col del Nivolet came into sight - our home for the next three nights.

Alessandro taking evening meal orders. (Nickey Davies)

We all settled into our rooms, some of us in the 'heidi' loft room - up a ladder, the rest in the lower bunkroom.

Mini the cook had returned after a less impressive cook last year, and we had a very lovely meal. We were in bed by refuge rules by 10pm!




25th July

Ready to set off from the refuge.After a cold, star-filled night at the refuge we were greeted with clear blue skies and lovely views down the valley of Piano del Nivolet - the high hanging valley with 2 lakes above which our refuge is perched.

The lakes in Piano del Nivolet.



We had breakfast and then divided into Intermediate and High level for a day's 'acclimatisation walking' to adapt to the higher altitude.

In the hidden valley.

The Intermediate walk, a small but select group, went to the hidden Rosset valley with me, Lorraine.

An unafraid marmotte.



The valley is often missed by the day trippers and we had it to ourselves. It was stunningly beautiful, and there were many alpine flowers.

Crossing the River Rosset.

While looking for a place to cross the river we came across a marmot foraging for her breakfast.

She seemed content to let us get quite close, remaining just out of reach, but happy for us to take photos. A wonderful treat!

Looking back up the valley above the waterfall.Lago Agnel below us.

On the other side of the river we followed a path that took us above the top of a waterfall that plunges down to Largo Agnel.

Start of the corrie in the background.




Further on we enjoyed the views down the Orca valley.

We then returned through the hidden valley, negotiating a waterfall and steep grassy bank to reach an old military track which we followed into an impressive corrie below Nivoletta. Here we stopped for lunch.

The Nivoletta snow sheet above.Nivoletta in the background.Crossing the Rosset river.











Lago Rosset.

From here we returned to the track and followed it round above Piano del Nivolet, across more streams, and headed to Largo Rossett, however the wind made it too cold to consider a dip.

Gentian



Walking down to the refuge.




We then walked down to another refuge for teas and ice creams before returning to our refuge where we sat in the sun outside until another scrumptious dinner!

High walk heading down from the refuge.

The High level walk with Madeline had meanwhile set off along the side of Piano del Nivolet on an old military track, enjoying tremendous views across the valley - almost like walking into a film set!

Walking down the military road.

Lots of marmots whistled on the mountain slopes and bright flowers tucked into various nooks and crannies amidst the boulders: leapardsbane and deep blue, small gentians.

Looking back up the valley to snow clad ridges.

They left the track, climbing up a small mountain path towards the hidden valley of Plan Borgnoz.

Heading up the mountainside to Plan Borgnez.



Yellow Gentian.




Taking in the view from part way up.



We had elevenses in a stunning spot with views of the Gran Paradiso glacier and summit in the distance.

Gran Paradiso at the head of the valley.

Behind them lay the 'hidden' valley of Plan Borgnez - where they were delighted to spot 2 Lammergeiers flying high up, close to the mountain tops.

Plan Borgnez lake with Gran Paradiso peeping over.


These birds of prey are incredibly rare residents of high mountain ranges and are declining, with only c. 500 pairs left in Europe.

In Plan Borgnez with the small glacier in the background.

Alessandro (our guardian at the refuge) later told us that a pair had recently come across from the French border and settled in the Gran Paradiso National Park.

Frog by the lake.


He explained how they pair for life and like to take their prey and drop them from height on to rocks to break them into pieces …. Fantastic birds….

Lunch by the lake.

Whilst here they had our lunch beside the glacial pool which was full of water crowfoot, lots of tadpoles, frogs and deep blue gentians, and also saw chamois in the valley.



After lunch they tackled an unmarked path across the scree and boulders of the Coula Lombarda mountain, towards Lago Nero.

Moss Campion.


Contouring high above the valley to Lago Nero.








Scrambling over scree.Lago Nero.








A brave woman swims in Lago Nero.

A restful break beside Lago Nero where several swam (well some of them only managed a 10 second dip - but others managed to stay in for 20 minutes or so!).

A moment of contemplation beside the lake.



When they finally dragged themselves away from this lovely spot they came across creamy white Edelweiss - nearly in heaven at this point …..

Edelweiss.
The path back to the refuge - with snow capped ridges ahead.







A drink at the commercial refuge in the valley.

...then made their way down to Rifugio Savoia for a much needed beer and ice cream before the short walk back to Rifugio Chivasso.

Waiting for dinner at Rif. C. di Chivasso.





C. di Chivasso refuge is very special. Beautifully maintained with views to die for, it is run by Alessandro and his 'boys' on solar power with water pumped from a nearby ice-melt lake.




26th July

Early morning view from the refuge.We woke to yet another glorious day at the refuge, and since the wind had dropped it was hot!

Walking up above Piano del Nivolet lakes.




Today both groups followed the same route - at slow high & high level paces - up to Col de Lenir at just over 3000m.

Lago Rosset below, Nivoletta to the right.
A break for the view.








This is such a treat of a walk with views of Gran Paradiso and also Mont Blanc if you're lucky!

Purple saxifrage.




Walking up above Lago Rosset.






Our journey first took us downwards and past a small pool, before starting to climb up towards Lago Rosset.

Walking above the Tre Becchi lakes.

We soon left the mountain meadows and started zig-zagging up the bare scree - taking in small flowers like Mt Cenis bellflower, and purple saxifrage - and stopping frequently to enjoy the magnificent views from here and take photos.

Looking up to Col Lenir.


We stopped briefly for a quick snack to give us an energy boast before the last section.

Heading up to the col.


Some clouds had appeared in the distance and we didn't want to risk losing the views at the Col. The landscape was quite different at a higher altitude and the walking felt harder.


High group at the Col.

The high group reached the col by 11am, and the views made it all worth while - the cloud hadn't beaten us, Mont Blanc stood out perfectly on the horizon.

High group liberate the lunch spot near the col.




It was difficult to take our eyes the incredible views as we ate our lunch.

Mont Blanc in the distance at the col.

The Intermediate group (Slow High today!) arrived just as we were leaving.

Ice sheet tucked behind the col.




They too had fabulous views of Mont Blanc as they sat for at least an hour, eating their lunch and drinking up the views and mountain sunshine.

Saxifrage.Gentian.

Both groups detoured on their way back down to take in the ridge overlooking the Tre Becchi lakes and Lago Nero.

Looking down on Lago Nero from the ridge.





From here they were looking straight down the valley at Gran Paradiso.

Walking back above the Tre Becchi  lakes.

Further down they met up again beside Lago Leyta where some brave souls ventured into the water... then walked back together to the refuge, sitting outside in the sun until dinner.

Lago Layta.



Swimming in Lago Leyta.




A drink outside the refuge.



A drink outside the refuge.




Birthday cake!



It was one woman's birthday, so after the meal the staff at the refuge surprised her with some candles around her dessert.





They also provided three complimentary bottles of wine - they are so kind here!




27th July

Citta di Chivasso refuge.Another beautiful day, but, after taking our luggage up to the pickup point, it was time to make our sad farewells to Alessandro and his staff.

Leaving the refuge.



It was hard saying goodbye to the beautiful views and peaceful atmosphere of the refuge.

Heading over the hill.

However we were soon on our way, leaving behind the jagged teeth of Rocce del Nivolet as we headed back over the hill above Col del Nivolet.

Walking down the path to the road.








A break for the view.


Reaching the Royal Game Trail.Walking along the Game Trail.








Both groups were to start off today along the Royal Game Trail path, then their routes would diverge part way along.

Taking a break.

The High walk with Lorraine would head higher over Col della Terra, while the Intermediate walk with Madeline would head down to Chiapilli refuge in the valley below.




The Intermediate walk took their time along the Royal Game Trail as it contoured the steep mountain slopes with stunning views down into the valley.

Lots of flowers...

Lots of flowers again as they had elevenses overlooking the mountain range opposite - beyond which lay France!

Heading down the Videsott path.


Then they left this old hunting and game keepers track and started zig-zagging down the mountain meadows - coming across sturdy, stone-built cattle and sheep shelters on the way.

Heading down the mountain to the valley.

They had lunch on the slopes, before continuing their relatively gentle meander down into the valley - taking in more views, waterfalls, and flowers - including fragrent orchids and bee orchids.

Gaining some shade.



They stopped several times but it was too hot to stay long - and some improvised various ways of getting more shade.



Finally they reached the small road in the bottom of the valley and walked back to Rifugio Mezia at Chiapili di sotto - where they stayed inside (out of the hot sun!) for ice creams.

Ice cream inside the refuge!




The valley bus took them back to Le Fonti - arriving before the high level group who had a bigger day today...


Reaching Col della Terra.

The High level walk had continued along the Game Trail with me, Lorraine, contouring and climbing the path to Colle della Terra.

Reaching the Colle.


It was hot and we took our time walking up to the Colle as the path got steeper and steeper.

At the cairn at the colle.

However the reward made the effort all worth while when we got tremendous views and a light breeze at the top.

Lago Lillet from the colle.


We detoured to the cairn at the ridge for photos before taking the the zig zag path down to the turquoise waters of Lago Lillet where we had lunch.

Zigzagging down to the lake.

Lunch at Lago Lillet.






Heading down from Lago Lillet.

Our descent was a knee-shaking 1,300m down rocky paths with big step downs; the valley did not seem to get any closer!

Heads under a light waterfall.





We took a short rest half way down by a water fall and then carried on, determined to get to the road in time for the bus.

Hot feet getting a cool down!

Thankfully the last section was in the trees, providing much welcomed shade.

A rest by the waterfall.




Walking down below the tree line.



Looking down on the sunchairs at Le Fonti.




We had time for beers and ice creams in the shop near to the bus stop.

Dinner at Le Fonti.

Dinner at Le Fonti that evening was preceded by drinks outside and followed by a sing-along to the guitar again!

More singing back at Le Fonti refuge.



28th July

Group photo with Pierre from Le Fonti.Our last day - and the sun was still shining! Probably the hottest day so far, particularly now we are descending from the mountains.

Starting up to the little alp.




We posed for a photo for the owner of Le Fonti following which both groups zigzagged up through the woods at their different paces.

High group pausing for breath.


Both groups walked up at different paces through the woods along the zigzag path to the little alp - 500m of ascent.

Walking up to the little alp.


Reaching the little alp.A pause on the way up.





The Intermediate walk was then to retrace the first day's High route back to the waterfall, and through the deserted villages...

Walking towards the waterfall.

We took our time and reached a grassy plateau where we sat in the shade for elevenses and saw a lizard, before heading east, contouring and gently descending on the lovely path along the side of the mountain.

Lunch in the shade of the bridge.

Then it was down down down through the woods and undergrowth to the valley with a waterfall at its end.




However, the shade at the bridge tempted us more as we could sit in shad with our toes in the water!

A sure way to cool down!


After lunch we walked through the series of old summer villages, mainly unused now, although some are being restored, and many have beautiful frescos on their walls.

Heading back down to the valley.

We were able to cool our heads under the water piped to the animal troughs.

Walking back to Noasca.




A cold drink outside the Auberge in Noasca.



The final section followed a cobbled path down through woods back to Noasca - where cold beers and hot showers waited!

Reaching Colle Sia - 350m above the little alp.

The High level walk with Madeline had meantime headed higher from the alp above Ceresole, heading up the open hillside to Colle Sia.

View to the head of the next valley - Vallone del Roc.

After a long haul they finally reached the col and had a small break on the ridge, enjoying the rest and the magnificent mountain views.

At Colle Sia.


From there they took a wonderful contour path high above the Vallone del Roc where the rest of us were walking.

Walking along the contour path to the head of the valley.


Contour path.





Crossing the river at the head of the valley.


At the head of the valley they crossed the outlet of an old glacial lake high up in the mountains and surrounded by steep scree slopes.

Lunch at the river.

A herd of cows were also enjoying the summer grazing there - and the group ate their lunch, enjoying the seclusion and attending to hot feet!!

Cows grazing at the head of the valley.


Continuing along the contour path.





After lunch they continued along the contour path, now bordered by a riot of different flowers before finally crossing a small wooden bridge and reaching King Emanuel's old hunting lodge (now a research station within the National Park).

Dianthus.The Royal Game Trail.








Walking up to Gran Piano.

Here they re-filled theirs waterbottles from the spring, then started their 1400m descent to Noasca.

Heading down finally to Noasca.




On the way down they stopped at the waterfalls of Torronte Gran Piano which offered an icy jacuzzi!!

Jacuzzi at the waterfalls.



A break at the waterfalls.




Last marmotte of the holiday.



Part way down they saw their last marmots of the holiday, then rejoined the final zigzags down into Noasca.

Looking down to Noasca.

That evening, after another wonderful and very filling dinner, some women played table football....

Table football.




... or chatting over the days walks.




... while the rest of us shared stories of the day's walks.




29th July

Looking down on the Gran Paradiso range.We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, and then some women did last minute shopping, visited the museum or sat in the sun outside the hotel.

The coach to the airport arrived at midday, and later from the plane we had great views over Lago di Ceresole and all the Gran Paradiso ranges on our way home - the perfect end to a great alpine holiday!

Here are some of the flowers and butterflies we saw over this week:



Women's Feedback

"Had a great time, really fab holiday. Beautiful scenery. Good walks, heaps of fun".

"Enjoyed greatly. Exceeded my expectations. No problems".

"It was very good: accommodation was clean and pleasant, walking was spectacular, guides were lovely, food was excellent, group was universally supportive and non cliquey".

"I came on my own and really enjoyed the holiday. Good to have a choice of walks, enjoyed high level, both guides were very helpful & professional".

"Fantastic! Was much better than I thought and more! Too short…that is probably just me wanting more!"

"Lorraine and Madeline were great at finding us and welcoming us at Luton. I very much enjoyed the walking, evening meals and mixed company. Sleeping in dorms was challenging but met my expectations - all part of the experience".

"Fabulous! Beautiful area. It more than met my expectations. Very well organised. Great walks and hotels and refuges. Absolutely fantastic guides! Brilliant, informative and encouraging".

"I've had a great holiday -challenging and interesting walks in beautiful scenery, good company and friendly, relaxed (but well organised) leaders. The week had been well thought-out and it was good also to have some flexibility. The holiday exceeded my expectations!" Margaret


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