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------ ---Gentle Normandy




Gentle Normandy 12-17 July
with Diana



12th July

On the fast-cat ferry out of Portsmouth.The holiday started with some excitement when one woman almost didn't make the ferry on time!

However in the end, thankfully, we were all aboard and on our way to Cherbourg.

Leaving Portsmouth.Entering Cherbourg.



We variously snoozed or chatted. There's not much of a deck to admire the view from on a fast cat! Before we knew it we were entering Cherbourg harbour.

Chateau Bellenau.

Here we were met by Spencer who runs Chateau Bellenau, and Dean - the chateau's handyman and driver.

We were driven to the chateau in a jeep and a London black cab!

Peacock on the front drive.

I had wondered what women would make of the chateau - what expectations the word 'chateau' might have conjoured up?

Looking out of my window.



Chateau Bellenau isn't smart and posh like a stately home - it's more homely, charming, full of character...

The lake with an arbour.



I needn't have worried, everyone instantly loved the place! The classic chateau facade, large bedrooms - many of them singles, peacocks to welcome us, and gardens just waiting to be explored...

About to sit down to dinner.

We settled in and came down for dinner - the fire was lit in the big hearth. Delicious food - salad, followed by savoury galettes, and rounded off by chocolate mousse.

Sitting in the lounge after supper.



Later we chatted in the lounge over coffee and tea, but most of us headed to bed pretty early.




13th July

Blue sky day!The forecast was for rain - but it could not have been more wrong! We had a beautiful blue sky day with a cooling breeze.

Ra the peacock.




Our first walk was an introduction to the Marais - since we are staying within the Park Regional des Marais de Cotentin et Bessin.

Setting off from Chateau Bellenau.


The marais are the lowlands of the area, flooded or 'whitened' in winter, then systematically drained in the spring to produce the extraordinarily rich pastures where Normandy cows and horses graze.


The herds are put out to pasture each June when the marais is deemed sufficiently drained - a big festival date - and the tradition endures.

Ponts Douves.








We walked first to the Park visitors centre nearby and saw an excellent short film in English on the marais. Spencer & Dean then picked us up to drive us to Brevands.

Brevands church.

From lovely Brevands church - which dates back to the 13th century - we headed down to the Carentan Canal built by Napoleon, and walked beside it towards the sea.

We didn't go as far as the sea today, but we could see it in the distance.

Old Port house.





Reaching the Canal de Carentan.


The Canal de Carentan.





Walking beside the Canal de Carentan.


We stopped for lunch by the canal, then headed away from the water along farm tracks between fields where herds of cows grazed.

Lunch by the canal!

The old canal house with a navigation light outside.






A maison de terre - in part.

We passed several lovely old buildings on our walk. There were maisons de terre built partly of earth, and two larger old manor farms built around a paved courtyard.

Walking down leafy farm tracks.


Lots of horses to be seen.





Outside La Colombiere.



Daisies and more cows.




Our circuit brought us back into Brevands past a lavoir - a 17th century communal 'wash house', and so back to the church where we were collected by car.


After showers and even snoozes, we met up for a drink on the terrace of the chateau's small bar.





Dinner followed and was delicious. I think we all ate too much!

Beautiful evening light.

The evening light was so beautiful that we took the opportunity to explore the chateau gardens.

Looking down from the folly tower.


These are unusual with paths through exotic trees, and paths that wind beside several waterways.




There are unexpected grottos and follies, ornate bridges, and a small lake overlooked by an arbour.










Hardly anyone wanted to stay up to see the pre-Bastille Day fireworks - but we were all woken at 11.30 none the less!




14th July

Walking along the Vire river.Bastille Day - a day off for most French people.

We were dropped off in Saint Fromand - a village to the south of Carentan with a bridge that proved strategic during the Liberation.

Walking along the Vire river.Waterlillies.



From here we started out by walking along the Vire river.







Honeysuckle.


After a while we turned up into the 'bocage' - the gentle rolling hills above the marais.

View across sweetcorn fields.



Walking through woods...




...and wheat fields.



The clouds came and went, and it was pleasantly cooler than yesterday - with an occasional light shower.

Sheltering under an apple tree for our break.

Our route took us through woods and along ancient sunken lanes with wheat and sweetcorn fields to each side.

Cows in the fields.



Walking along sunken lanes.




Lots of wild flowers.



Several times we espied the tower of Saint Fromand Abbey as we steadily drew nearer - our goal for the day.

Abbatiale de Saint Fromand.

Abbatiale de Saint Fromand.






The Benedictine Abbey of Saint Fromand dates from 871, though it has been sacked by Vikings, rebuilt, then destroyed by fire in the 15th century, rebuilt, then damaged and rebuilt after allied bombing during the war.

Inside the Abbey.

We looked around inside, then ate our lunch under the trees in front of the abbey.

From here we had a relatively short distance left before regaining Saint Fromand village.

View as we walk back to Saint Fromand.




Bastille Day village boules match.




Here the Bastille Day village boules match was in full swing!

La Flamand Rose Hotel in St Fromand.

We had promised ourselves tea - and indeed the woman at the Flamand Rose Hotel/cafe (Pink Flamingo) welcomed us with open arms.

Walking to the bird hide.

While some women headed back to Justine's home made cake at the chateau, others asked to be dropped off near the National Park reserve and bird hide.

At the National Park reserve & bird hide.

We saw great crested grebes, cormorants, divers, coots... and had a lovely walk back through the fields.

There is actually a cormorant on that post!


Returning from the bird hide.





Returning to Chateau Bellenau.


Stories about the chateau being liberated on D-day.





After dinner, Justine (who is our excellent cook) told us some of the history of the chateau.

The fireplace in one of the grottos.Little added features in the grottos.

She also showed us hidden bits of the gardens - the grottos (where she'd put candles beforehand) and the islands...

Justine shows us the hidden islands.




Venus statue. Ra - showing his plummage.




The chateau has the oldest palms in France, and possibly the tallest monkey puzzle tree in France...

It was a lovely way to finish the day.




15th July

Mermaid in front of the chateau.Torrential rain and thunder in the night - I slept through it, but it was apparently quite a storm.

Setting off from the chateau.




By morning the skies were clearing, and by the time we set off the sun was shining.

Ryes church.Old manor farm in Ryes.

Today we aimed both to have a walk and to visit the superb medieval town of Bayeux.

Manor farm - now used as stables.





Walking up onto the ridge.


After a drive to Ryes village, near Bayeux, we headed towards the sea at Arramanches.

A rest on reaching the ridge top.

Our walk took us along a lovely low ridge through wheat and corn fields until the sea appeared before us.

Fields of wheat.


Gentle views from the ridge.





A break in the shade along the ridge.


Arramanches is a small seaside resort which became of significant importance during D-day when the allies towed the famous Mulberry harbour there.


1st view of the sea.



Straw bails, Arramanches church spire, and the sea.




Looking down towards Arramanches.



This temporary harbour was for a while the largest harbour in the world, supplying all the troups who'd landed elsewhere along the Normandy coast. Sections of it still remain in place today.

Remaining sections of the Mulberry harbour.

We reached the cliffs above Arramanches where we visited the Cinema Circulaire.

This 360 degree cinema shows a moving film made up of clippings from the D-day landings.

Lunch on the cliffs after the Cinema Circulaire.

After lunch on the cliffs, we wandered down to Arramanches - buying ice creams, postcards and bottles of water to cope with the warm weather (so much for the stormy forecast!)

Walking through Arromanches.

We caught the public bus to Bayeux, and headed for the first open bar we saw - for cold drinks!

Bayeux has a beautiful medieval centre which was mercifully undamaged by the allied bombings during the war.

In Bayeux.Walking to the cathedral.



Cold drinks near the cathedral.







Bayeux Cathedral.Huge nave - Bayeux Cathedral.

The cathedral was nearby, so we took a look inside before wandering down to the Bayeux Tapestry.

Lots of water in the river.





Small detail on an old building...





Bayeux Tapestry - from a postcard.





Scenes of farming practices from the borders of the tapestry (from postcards).

The Tapestry proved absolutely breathtaking - the detail, the expressions on the faces, the scenes of Norman life, the history... Most of us viewed it twice!

Meeting up for a drink before dinner.

There was time to wander through the medieval centre of Bayeux, or take the small tourist 'train' around the streets.

Dinner in Bayeux.



Later we all met up again to eat, and enjoyed a delicious meal at a brasserie - from gorgeous salads to steaks...



Spencer and Dean came to collect us - and no sooner had we set off home but the skies opened.

The storm was brief, so it was possible to sit out with a drink at the chateau once we'd showered and changed.




16th July

Walking in Saint Sauveur forest.More rain in the night. Not sure what the forecast was meant to be for today - but the weather was fine as we set out for the Foret de Saint Sauveur.


Walking through the Foret de Saint Sauveur. (Siobhan McCann)






Our final walk took us through beautiful deciduous woods, starting with an arboretum with all manner of different trees, from elms to ceders, and a sequoia we couldn't find.

Lily pond. Ferns everywhere.

From here we took a woodland path in a large circle through these ancient woods - huge beeches and oaks sheltered smaller holly, hazel, and silver birch.

Waterlilies (Siobhán McCann)




We reached a tranquill waterlily pond full of frogs and newts - a good place for a break in the sun.

Break at the lily pond.
Frog in the lily pond. (Siobhán McCann)







Liz negotiating the mud.

From here on the path got wetter from all the nocturnal rain - with plenty of mud to negotiate!

Patches of sunlight.











Foxgloves.Edy being intrepid.






Judith.











Walking up onto Mont de Besneville.


Finally we exited the woods and headed for Mont de Besneville - a neighbouring hill of 120m covered in silver birch, heather, gorse, and ling.

Orientation table.  (Siobhán McCann)

At the top, after a gentle climb of about 50m, there was the base of an old windmill - which had been turned into an observation tower.

Walking through gorse and ling.


We had 360 degree views over northern Normandy, and could even see the sea to the west, including the Channel Island of Jersey.

Views from Mont de Besneville.

After lunch here we made our way off the hill, avoiding the wettest looking paths, and ending up on small lanes as we made our way to Besneville.

Beautiful horses.


Entering Besneville village.






Painted letterbox.


Here there is a small cafe - part of a grocer's shop - called Cafe Roger.

The salubrious Cafe Roger! (Siobhán McCann)


The owner, Madame Roger, hastily cleared her latest grocery delivery from the main table so that we could sit down.

Supping cider in Cafe Roger.


Cider, beer, tea, cafe au lait.... then, for some, a little shopping for things to take home from the shop next door - cheese, biscuits, wine....

Saint Sauveur le Vicomte chateau.

On the way back some of us with Dean stopped to quickly visit the ruined chateau of Saint Sauveur le Vicomte which is currently having conservation work done on it.

Delicious and beautifully presented canneloni.

We were incredibly lucky because, as we drove home, the skies opened and we had a terrific storm.

Back at Chateau Bellenau there was tea and cake, some of Marianne's Swiss chocolate, showers, books to read, women to chat to...




17th July

Utah Beach.Some of had arranged an early morning lift from Spencer to Utah Beach so that we could eat our breakfast there.

Utah is the nearest beach to the chateau, and was one of the American landing beaches on D-day.

Horses pulling racing traps up and down the beach.

The tide was low, the sun shining, and beyond the dunes we were greeted with a huge spread of sand.

Exercising trotting horses pulling traps.


The hard packed sand, once a pre-requisit for being able to land tanks, was now being used by horses pulling racing traps - about 15 of them in all, exercising up and down the beach.

Oyster beds exposed at low tide.

At the water's edge in the distance, small trucks were pulled up beside the oyster beds exposed at low tide.

Disintergrating landing craft from D-day.


In the middle of the beach lay a relic of D-day, a barnacled and seaweed covered landing craft slowly disappearing into the sand.

Looking back at the dunes from the seas edge.

It was great to eat our croissants with this view before us, then walk to the water's edge for a paddle.

Saying goodbye to Marianne who was leaving for Switzerland by car.



All too soon it was time to get back to the chateau for our drive to Cherbourg. We hugged Marianne goodbye who was driving back to Switzerland...

Leaving Cherbourg.

Time too to bid our kind drivers goodbye, and catch our fast-cat ferry home...

Lovely group, thank you for making it such an enjoyable first Normandy holiday. There will be more!



Women's Feedback & photos

"A thoroughly enjoyable holiday as always. The location was just perfect - beautiful gardens, relaxing lounge area, bar available etc. Nothing was too much trouble for Spencer and the rest of the staff. The accommodation was simple but clean and tidy. The highlight for me was Justine's excellent cooking". Siobhan

"Staying at Bellenau was an important part of the holiday - charming and atmospheric, instant 'home' beyond any expectations! Great walks - wonderful area. Walks ideal length and grade for me. Perfect mix of walks, culture, and history. Diana the ideal guide companion. Thanks Diana, I thoroughly enjoyed the holiday and would do it again. If it was 5 walking days it would be good to have the middle day free (for culture, towns, Bayeux)". Edy

"Everything up to your high standard." Judith

"Very enjoyable. Good variety of walks. Chateau very comfortable and interesting. Good food. Transport not very comfortable. Lovely gardens and surroundings."

"A very enjoyable holiday. Lovely walks and good company. I loved the chateau, the food was excellent and everyone very helpful. I really enjoyed the history lessons! An extra day in the middle of the holiday to 'chill' in the chateau would be a good idea. Felt very well looked after".

"Great location and great food. We were very well looked after by chateau staff. I thoroughly enjoyed the holiday and it met my expectations. Yes! Yes! felt well looked after by guide". Jenny

"I thoroughly enjoyed the holiday. It more than met my expectations: 1) the chateau, its history and beautiful grounds. 2) the landscape - learning about how the landscape changes with the seasons. 3) the walks - beautiful countryside, farmhouses and butterflies! Once again, terrific group of women. Guide was good natured and accommodating". Maria

"Had a fantastic holiday in Normandy. Loved the chateau, food great and accomodation comfortable, thoroughly enjoyed the walks. ... Am thinking about coming again next year. If there is an added fifth day next year then I would prefer a walk rather than staying at the chateau or mooching round a town. I was happy with the amount of time we had in Bayeux. Thanks once again Diana for a lovely break.". Liz


Here are some of Siobhan's lovely photos (and there are more in the text above).

Stain glass at Abbatiale de Saint Fromond. Vain as a peacock.  (Siobhán McCann)








Calla lily. (Siobhán McCann)Poppy in a wheat field. (Siobhán McCann)








Dragonfly  (Siobhán McCann)Another dragonfly? but huge!  (Siobhán McCann)

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