Departed Heathrow an hour late, due to problems with docking gate. Arrived Doha without problems, and were boarded on to the next plane to take us to Kathmandu in just over an hour.

A great deal of turbulence on this flight which led to one of our group having to use the "little white bag" and a number of the group using the power of prayer to keep the plane in the air.

Reached Kathmandu on time where we were met by Asha and the boys, who helped us to keep tabs on our luggage and get it safely on board our bus.

We were presented with garlands to welcome us, then piled into the bus for the journey to Hotel Thamel.

The sights, sounds, and smells of the city engulfed us as we stepped from the minibus - woodsmoke, incense, spices, music, hustle and bustle, rickshaws, shop signs, street vendors, "Namaste" from the hotel staff....

We sorted out everyone's rooms and luggage, then arranged to meet up later to sort out trekking permits and go to change money.

We had booked Pilgrims Restaurant for tonight, leaving Thamel House for the following night.

Had a very good meal at Pilgrims, sat out under cover, at low tables. Everybody enjoyed the meal and the atmosphere.

Early night - 9.30pm to bed - sightseeing tomorrow. Some of the group had already got into shopping!

Temples & sights in Kathmandu & Baktapur

Early start, starting with breakfast to set us up for the day. We were headed first to Swayambunath where there is a Hindu temple and Buddist Monastery.

Unlike last year, we didn't walk to Swayamnunath as the streets are much more crowded this year now that there is no civil unrest.

At Swayambunath we climbed the 300 steps to the Stupa. Monkeys played on the Buddhas along the way, and minor birds chattered in the trees.

The temples themselves were not busy. We walked sunwise around the magnificant stupa, turning prayer wheels as we passed, and looking at the statues in the niches and shrines.

I had a tikka done like last year after we visited the monastery and lighting the butter lamps there.

Descending the steps again we now headed for Pashuputinath Hindu temple, which was crowded due to it being a Hindu holiday.

The cremation ghats were busy as I explained about the burning ghats, the river, and the different temples in the complex. We spent quite some time there before going on to Bodnath.

The stupa at Bodnath had been newly painted and the prayer flags were being renewed for the celebration of the equinox.

There was much drumming and blowing of horns from the monks in the monastery which added to the atmosphere but did not distract from the overall peace and tranquility of this temple after busy Pashuputinath.

For lunch we drove to Bhaktapur - an amazingly preserved medieval city not far from Kathmandu.

We ate at the Nyatapul Restaurant, and watched the goings on from where we sat, before exploring Potters Square and some of the temples.

Back at the hotel there was time to shower and change before dinner at Thamel House Restaurant. It had been a grand day out.

The group enjoyed the traditional style Newari cuisine and atmosphere of the restaurant. We ate sitting on cushions.

Pokhara

This morning we rose early again for our 8.45 flight to Pokhara. We had superb views of the mountains at this hour.

In Pokhara Hotel Meera was to be our base - newly built and very comfortable.

After settling in we wandered down to Phewa Tal Restaurant by the lake where Tibetan women soon descended on us trying to sell their jewellery.

After lunch we went for a walk down through Dame Side and the local paddy fields to Devi Falls.

We watched people working in their fields, ploughing and harvesting. In the evening folk went out in small groups to eat - according to their culinary preferences.

We woke to a beautiful view of the mountains and took breakfast on roof top restaurant, soaking it all in. The weather was already clear and hot.

We were driven up the hill above Pokhara to climb to Sarankot for an even better view of the Annapurna Range and Fish Tail Mountain.

We stopped to look at little shops on the way up. At the top there were only a few monks there carrying out a "puja" and burning some juniper.

The views were not too good as the cloud and mist were coming in - but good enough to linger a while.

We saw a sea eagle and a couple of other eagles riding the thermals. They seemed to be following a number of paragliders also in the area.

We stopped for drinks on the way back down and also to buy from the stalls in the village.

Rain was on the way, so, rather than walking down to Pokhara, Asha had arranged for the bus to pick us up. Part way back the heavens opened and it simply poured down.

More thunder and lightening during lunch, but in the afternoon some of us went walking again and were rewarded by seeing red kites catching eels from the lake.

Meanwhile, so much shopping had already taken place that we had to buy an extra bag for leaving stuff in Pokhara! Later we sorted out our gear for the start of the trek tomorrow.

Pokhara - Nya Pul - Syauli Bazar

We set off by bus to Nya Pul at 8am. Views of the mountains produced numerous Ooohs and Aahs as we drove.

In Nya Pul, our porters shared our our packs between them as we set off on the trek.

It was a hot day, so we stopped at Birethanti only a short way up the valley for cuppa - and to book our rooms for our return, to stay here on the last night of the trek.

Crossing the bridge, we continued up the valley - passing donkey trains (with their pesky flies), and watching women working in the fields and children playing.

With everyone going strong it only took 3 hours to trek to Hotel Machepuchre in Syauli Bazar. However it was a good warm up day while we got used to the warmer weather.

From here, we had a great view of Machepuchre (Fish Tail Mountain) which dominated the view further up the valley.

After a refreshing cuppa at the tea house we went on a walk to explore the area.

In the large veg garden at back of lodge, tomatoes, aubergine, watercress, radish, onion and cannabis were growing.

At the hotel we shared twin rooms - simple but clean, with an outside washing area with a cold tap.

Many of us had dahl bat for our evening meal followed by rice pud for dessert - but there were other options too.

We were all in bed by 9pm, to be ready for a fairly big haul up the hillside tomorrow.

Syauli Bajar (1220m) to Ghandruk (1940m)

After porrridge and tea for breakfast, we set off at a good pace - hoping to be leaving the biting donkey flies behind us.

It was already warm, making for hard going on the steep climb - we had a total of 700m ascent to achieve today.

Our path took us through little villages, and was the main byway for local people returning from market, collecting fodder, or bringing produce down from the hills.

We passed children playing, women washing clothes in a stream or under a stand pipe, youngsters going to school....

The views however were stunning - of terraced hillsides, the plunging valley below us, then the snow capped mountains of Huin Chuli and Annapurna South came into view...

We stopped just before Ghandruk for lunch of fried bread and noodles at a tea house.

This kept us going for the last stretch to Milan Lodge higher in the village where we would spend the night.

In the afternoon, some of us went to see an old Gurung museum and took a walk around lower area of Ghandruk where a completely traditional Gurung villiage exists.

Some of us had potato curry for dinner with apple pancake for dessert!

Ghandruk (1940m) to Tadapani (2630m)

We woke to fantastic views of Annapurna South, Hin Chuli, and Machupuchere. Sunrise was spectacular.

We had our breakfast of muesli and tea sitting out on the patio - which was a treat.

Mas was birthday girl today and was presented with a photo poster of the Annapurna range, signed by each of the group.

Setting off, we had a long hard sweaty slog up to Bhaissi Kharka.

Here we stopped for a long lunch. Asha and the porters played a board game while the lodge owners children entertained the rest of us.

From here we passed into rhododendron forest, past waterfalls, orchids, premula, etc.

Gingerly we threaded our way past buffalo and spotted large langular monkeys up in the trees.

After 4.5 hours we emerged from the forest we arrived at Tadapani and had to run the gauntlet of tenacious souvenior sellers in the market. The "shopaholics" of the group couldn't resist!

In Tadapani we stayed at Panorama View Hotel.

Sita, the previous owner has moved on since last year, but the new new owners agreed to prepare a chocolate cake for Mas and also arranged for a local cultural show to help with the celebration.

They sang, played instruments, and danced. Most of us got up to dance as well, with yours truly being dragged up first. Mas won't forget this birthday in a hurry.

Tadapani (2630m) to Ghorepani Deurali (2860m).

More wonderful snow-capped views at breakfast.

Today we started with a long down through rhododendron and bamboo forest. We managed to spot troop of monkeys below us in the trees.

The going was hard at times with a large number of fallen trees across the path caused by heavy snow in the winter.

The locals had said it was the first real snow in the area for 55-60 years. Everyone coped fine.

The rhododendrons and daphne were in full bloom. We crossed the river then ascended the steep valley side opposite. Luckily there was a tea house at the top!

From here we started along a higher valley side, then climbed upwards to Deurali pass for lunch.

It was quite cold up here, in fact cold enough for snow and a quick snow ball fight.

As we walked on along a wooded ridge we heard some cow bells in the distance - lo and behold, 3 yaks came into view! They are not usually found at this altitude. It was a lovely surprise for the group.

At the summit we stopped for a short break before descending to Ghorepani.

Here we stayed at the Annapurna View Hotel where we had an early night after dinner to be ready for an pre-dawn start up to Poon Hill for a sunrise view of the entire Annapurna range.

Poon Hill, then Ghorapani Deurali (2860m) to Ulleri (1960m)

Up at 4.30am for Poon Hill - and into our warm gear. We had heard people clumping up past our lodge from 4am.

Leaving two members of the group to enjoy sunrise from their beds, the rest of us started our climb at 5am, head torches lighting our way in the dark.

"Bistari Bistari" - step by step - we meandered up the steep path to Poon Hill - a total of 430m ascent from Ghorapani.

When we stopped to catch our breath and looked back, all we could see, in the dark, was a long line of moving lights coming up behind us.

We reached the summit just as the sun crested the hills, and the view was as spectacular as ever. There were lots of trekkers up there to enjoy it.

We drank hot chocolate from a little stall, and took lots of summit photos. Everyone was pleased they'd made the effort despite the ungodly hour.

Dragging ourselves away and feasting on mountain views as we descended, we returned to the lodge for breakfast.

It was then time to pack and start our way down to Ulleri.

In addition to the 430m descent from Poon Hill, we now had a further 700m to Poon Hill - mostly on stone steps which would be tough on our knees.

The day started nice and sunny, and very hot.

We passed donkey trains ascending with their loads.

We stopped for tea at a nice teahouse, all sitting talking and laughing around the table.

Next minute one of the group returned from the loo with blood pouring from her head - she'd taken a short cut back through the buffalo house and hit her head on a low beam.

We administered first aid and stitched the laceration together by knotting her hair together either side of the cut - sorted! She felt fine to carry on walking.

About an hour from Ulleri, the weather suddenly changed; thunder rumbling in the distance, gradually coming closer. A few spots of rain hit, then lightening joined the thunder.

We were 15mins from our destination, so we kept on going. The narrow steps in the village street had turned into a river, a right torrent, pouring down through the village.

We arrived at Surprise View Lodge rather wet and bedraggled but safe. I discovered as well as ensuite facilities in my room, I had an ensuite beehive outside the window with its occupants sneaking into the room.

Pauline busily filled the cracks in the window frames with loo paper to prevent this.

There was a hot fire going down in dining room where we could dry off and warm up. We also made friends with the lodge dog. Early night again tonight after our early start...

Ulleri (1960m) to Birenthanti (1025m)

Delicious breakfast. We said our goodbyes and set off again downhill.

The weather was fine again and on our way down we got our last views of Annapurna South and Huin Chuli.

Today we had a descent of 3280 steps down to the river at Turkhedunga, then a little up before a more gradual descent to Birenthanti.

We stopped for tea in the village, watching children play completely fearlessly up and down the steep steps.

We crossed the bridge over the river and continued on down for another hour or so until we reached our lunch stop at a riverside lodge.

After a drink and putting our order in for lunch, we went to dangle our feet in the river. Bliss!

Our porters were there fishing and swimming, laughing and enjoying themselves.

The locals were also swimming, fishing and washing.

It was a lovely spot to spend a couple of hours, relaxing and having lunch before going on down to Birenthanti.

The next leg took us down beside the river, and at one point we had to walk on the stones next to the river before regaining our riverside track.

We were only 20 minutes from Birenthanti when a member of the group twisted her ankle quite badly. After all those steps, she had in fact hurt it on the flat.

Between us, we helped her down to our lodge slowly and carefully. A bit of a task, but she was brilliant.

We enjoyed a lovely meal of pizza that night and Asha had baked an 'end of trek' cake for us.

Thank you's all round and Asha presented us with katta - traditional silk scarves to keep us safe on our journeys home.

We all enjoyed a great evening - even Trish, despite her injury.

The porters had gear ready to move before breakfast. Trish was piggy backed by Manjit most of the way to Nya Pul so we could meet our bus.

Everyone: guides, porters, women, and all of our kit managed to get on the bus together, spurred on by a lot of laughter and talking.

We arrived back into Pokhara and headed for our rooms and a hot shower to get rid of the trail dust. We'd arranged to meet up with Asha and some of our porters after lunch.

Six of us plus them were rowed over to the other side of Phewa Tal lake to climb to the Peace Temple - a very hot climb up!

There was no army at the top this year, but some students had caused damage to the marble balustrades of the temple and we couldn't go up onto the walkway.

We came back across the lake and our porters had to catch the bus back to Kathmandu. We all said goodbye to them and saw them safely onto the bus. They had been a lovely crew and very unintrusive.

We split into much smaller groups for our evening meal - eating at whichever restaurant we fancied. It felt like a good contrast after trekking in such close proximity together for nearly a week.

Pokhara - Kathmandu

The flight from Pokhara was slightly delayed but not enough to create a problem.

We arrived back in Kathmandu around mid-morning after a flight with fabulous views.

Asha arranged to meet up after lunch and walk with us to Dhurbar Square.

We went via the local markets selling all manner of veg, salt, spices, herbs etc. The group were enthralled.

Dhurbar Square was very busy, with too much traffic and noise to really take it in. Many of the temples are still in the process of being renovated.

We spent an hour or so explaining about temples and buildings before walking back to Hotel Thamel.

We ate another nice meal at Pilgrims. The manager told us that we had made his heart 'very happy' by eating at his restaurant. This was our final night in Nepal…

Another final shopping spree - I took everyone to the fixed price shop and let them loose for an hour or so.

We met up in the hotel after lunch to say our goodbyes to Asha, his son and the hotel staff.

With all our kit packed, some bags bulging with the spoils of Nepalese shops, we loaded up our kit onto the bus and headed off to the airport.

Kathmandu was very busy especially now that Nepal is back on the tourist agenda after the cessation of civil unrest.

After uneventful flights home, we finally, sadly, said our goodbyes to each other the following morning at Heathrow airport.