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WalkingWomen ------ ---Intermediate Crete 1 Intermediate Crete 1 - 8-15 May |
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The Gatwick women had an opportunity to visit nearby Knossos while we waited - which was thoroughly enjoyed. ![]() We then all journeyed across the island to Rothakino on the south coast - stopping at a good supermarket on the way to buy supplies for our breakfasts and packed lunches. At Oasis Rooms we were warmly welcomed by Christina, and settled into our rooms with balconies overlooking the sea. ![]() Dusk was falling as we headed for Nikos and Anna's taverna just along the road. We all crowded into the kitchen to choose what we wanted to eat - mainly amassing a variety of different starters to share. After such a long day, we didn't tarry long after our meal and were soon dropping off to sleep to the sound of the waves on the shore. |
9th May
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![]() After breakfast on our respective balconies, we set off at a very reasonable hour of 10am, walking east along the coast path. ![]() Our route took us up above the sea, winding through olive groves that sloped down towards the water. There were sometimes sheep and goats grazing under the trees, their bells ringing ringing as they moved. ![]() ![]() We walked on beneath a rugged hill called Kastro where huge boulders have fallen off the mountain into the sea. ![]() Topping a rise we came into view of Plakias Bay, and headed down to a small deserted cove below us. Here we spent a pleasant and relaxing few hours, swimming, reading, chatting and beach combing. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Some women explored a little further along the path, then we all headed back towards Rothakino, stopping for a much needed cold drink at Koraka beach. Later we had another very enjoyable meal at Nikos and Anna's taverna again. |
10th May
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![]() The meadows were full of flowers as we walked down into the gorge. ![]() The mule track through Imbros Gorge was once the main north/south thoroughfare in this part of Crete - with a prominant place in history at times of strife.
![]() ![]() There were flowers and herbs everywhere - from the dramatic Dragon Arum native to Crete to tiny flowers that used the thorn bushes as cover from the sun. The gorge was shady with trees, and in places narrowed to a winding water carved channel. At the narrowest point you could touch both walls.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() After approximately 5 miles we reached a taverna at the bottom. ![]() While Sue and I took a taxi to retrieve the cars, the rest ordered fresh squeezed orange juice, or had their first taste of Sfakian Cheese pie. ![]() We now drove beyond Hora Sfakion to the start of the coast path to Loutro. This is a striking section of the E4 - a long distance path that stretches the length of Crete through the mountains and along the coast.
We walked with the turquoise sea below us as our path wound along the cliffs and steadily descended towards Sweetwater Bay.
![]() Here fresh water runs under the pebbles and people dig wells in the beach to reach it. Beyond Sweetwater we reached a completely deserted beach where we stopped for a delicious swim before completing the walk to Loutro. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Loutro can only be reached by ferry or on foot. We stopped at the first taverna along the waterfront for a cold beer or fresh orange juice. ![]() We had time to also peruse the small shops in Loutro and restock our supplies from the supermarket before finally ambling around the cove to catch the ferry back to Hora Sfakion.
The food on display in Hora Sfakion was so tempting that we stopped here for dinner before driving back home along the coast.
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11th May
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![]() The deserted cove around the headland would be very windy today. Instead we found a sheltered spot near trees on the beach in front of the rooms where there was no sand to blow, and spent a delicious day reading, sunning, swimming, and dozing. Some women tried to walk around the headland but were almost blown off their feet. ![]() ![]() In the evening Christina & Maria had invited us all to go eat at Katerina's restaurant - a lovely gesture. Maria's husband, Nikos, and Christina's new husband, Iannis also joined us - it was a lively evening and the food was delicious. ![]() We headed to bed relatively early - to pack for Samaria and get a good night's sleep. |
12th May
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The view east along the coast was superb in the dawn light as we drove to Hora Sfakion to catch the bus to Hania. In Hania we stopped for coffee, fruit, and spinach pies for the gorge, then took taxis up into the mountains. At the top of the gorge - Xilo Skala (meaning 'wooden stair' - which is no longer wooden!) - we stopped for more supplies and a second breakfast before starting down. ![]() ![]() It was a beautiful day. Gingilos reared majestically into blue sky on the opposite side, and south we looked down into the gorge with the White Mountains beyond. We had the gorge almost totally to ourselves. Most people start it early in the morning to be down in time for the ferries. ![]() We however would spend the night at the bottom of the gorge and were in no rush. We zig zaged our way downwards through sun-warmed pines, then crossed and re-crossed the river bed as our path continued down the valley.
![]() At times there was water in the river bed, at other times it was dry with huge boulders. We stopped for lunch beside a lovely pool, then again at old Samaria village beneath the fig trees.
![]() ![]() The gorge then narrowed dramatically and we walked between towering walls, gazing up at incredibly folded rock strata.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() After our final break, we reached the Gates of Samaria - the narrowest point of the gorge. ![]() Nearly there - we only had a relatively short distance to reach the sea. 11 miles on rough rocky paths - and we had done it! At Agia Roumeli we collapsed into chairs at Restaurant Tara for a drink - or went swimming before the sun left the cove. ![]() We then settled into our rooms at Hotel Calypso before dinner... |
13th May
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The first section was on sand and pebbles behind the beach - best done before the sun reaches that stretch. ![]() At Agios Pavlos - an old Byzantine church built by the followers of St Paul - we stopped for coffee at the little taverna there. We then continued beneath sun-warmed pines for a stretch, looking down through the pines to the turquoise sea - always a favourite bit of this walk. ![]() ![]() Now came a section of coast path with very little shade. ![]() Thankfully there was a breeze to cool us down as we walked around the long headland towards Loutro. ![]() We stopped for a break under an ancient olive tree.
Topping a rise we suddenly had Finix Bay ahead of us with the Loutro headland beyond, and as we descended we could see Marmara Cove where we were to stop for lunch. ![]() ![]() ![]() Some headed straight for the beach for a swim, others were keener for a pre-lunch beer at the shaded taverna there! We stayed here for several hours, eating, swimming, and sunning until it was time to catch the taxi boat to Loutro (the taxi boat did 3 trips to take us all!) ![]() ![]() After some time in Loutro re-stocking our food supplies and having tea and cake beside the water, we caught the ferry back to our cars in Hora Sfakion. Everyone was keen to get home after our time away, and that evening we ate back at Nikos & Anna's taverna at Polyrisos Beach. It was good to be back in our rooms overlooking the sea. It felt like we had been away for an age! |
14th May
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Here we would walk through a valley and over a hillside above the Preveli Gorge, then descend to the sea. ![]() At Palm Beach the river forms a sand bar - offering a choice to swim in fresh water or the sea. ![]() As we descended we also got fine views of the coast stretching away to Agia Galini further east. ![]() On the beach there was shade if needed, sun beds, and a little taverna across the river...
![]() After a lovely time swimming and relaxing here, some of us headed up the gorge to see if this year's water level would allow us to get through. This gorge is always an unknown quantity, and sometimes we have to turn back. Would we manage it this year?! ![]() ![]() However it is always impressive to go take a look, and though 2 non-swimmers turned back, four of us gave the gorge a go. ![]() It was a real adventure - wading through water of various depths, scrambling over rocks - and sometimes even under or between huge bolders! ![]() In and out of the river... ![]() ![]() The gorge was stunning - with pools and little waterfalls, oleander and green green plane trees. ![]() ![]() At one point we paused so that Veronica could take a dip! ![]() Finally we climbed out of the river over an outcrop of rock to reach our return path - feeling deeply satisfied.
![]() The other women had either driven back with Sue from the neighbouring beach, or taken the taxi boat to Plakias. ![]() We all met up in Plakias for a drink beside the water, baklava or cake in some cases, and shopping! There are also several excellent jewelry shops here. Later, we ate at Katerina's restaurant - our last night together. ![]() Mary sang some beautiful Blues to us, and in some places we knew the words to join in. A wonderful finale to the holiday. |
15th May
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We gave Christina a present we had bought in Plakias to thank her for treating us at Katerina's earlier in the week. Then we breakfasted all together at Nikos and Anna's taverna until the Gatwick women had to leave. Though the Manchester plane was later, in the end we all met up at Heraklion again when the Gatwick plane was delayed. We sat in the outdoor airport bar till everyone got off ok. I hoped that this final hassle couldn't disturb the good mood of the holiday! |
Women's Feedback
"This was the first time I have been abroad with WalkingWomen. From start to finish, I thoroughly enjoyed the experience. Accommodation, guides and company were excellent. It far exceeded my expectations. I will definitely be doing this type of holiday again". Joy
"A very enjoyable holiday - different from other WW holidays I've been on. I had not expected so much non-walking/beach time but appreciated relaxing on a beautiful beach enjoying looking at the sun, sea and scenery. Maybe I should have more 'chill' time in my life. I liked the unspoilt-ness of this part of Crete, magnificent scenery both coastal and mountains, Imbros Gorge, wild flowers and Samaria, awe inspiring! Memories will also include flocks of sheep, goats and the taverna dog. I loved the balcony of the room - so many stars and eating breakfast looking at the sea, shore and mountains in the distance. What a super group of women to be part of! It made the holiday special". Nancy
"Just seen the diary for last weeks holiday and it's brilliant. I can honestly say it's the best holiday I've ever had, and I've had some good ones. I have made some amazing friends, most of whom I'll stay in touch with, and I know there will be more WalkingWomen holidays for me in the future. Thank you once again". Valerie
"Exceeded my expectations. Wonderful view from our balcony - lovely walks and swims with excitement for those who wanted it! Extremely well planned walks - I was very impressed we got the most out of the Samaria Gorge. All in all, great company - the best yet!"
"Not sure what I expected but I really enjoyed it. As a first 'group' holiday for me it was a bit strange living the whole week as part of a group but the walks were great and really well planned. Photo diary absolutely lovely idea - really looking forward to seeing them".
"Did I enjoy it? I loved it! A wonderful holiday in an unspoilt and largely location. Diana is an amazing and skilled leader. The walks were well thought out and varied. I am very slow on downhill stretches because of a knee problem, but I was never made to feel that I was a difficultly and that was helpful for me in terms of my ability to relax and not feel like a liability to the group". Mary
"Very enjoyable and well balanced programme. Excellent organisation and planning, offering variety of walks and great care to the individual needs, wishes and comfort of the walkers, making an effortlessly convivial holiday"
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