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------ ---Gentle Normandy




Gentle Normandy 11-17 April
with Diana



11th April

Sunny but windy weather for our crossing.We had sunny weather for our crossing from Portsmouth to Cherbourg - though windy, and the sea was quite rough for a fast ferry.

Happiest at the stern of the ferry.



Luckily the trip only lasted 3 hours, and several women found they were happiest at the back of the boat out in the fresh air, watching the wake and the horizon.

Rainbow in the spray.

Coming into Cherbourg harbour.






Chateau Bellenau.

In Cherbourg, we were met by Justine and Mick who have taken over the running of the chateau where this holiday is based - Chateau Bellenau.

One of the peacocks (Sheila Black)


This is a wonderful small chateau, full of character and charm without being imposing or smart.

Justine and Mick. (Diana Cantor)

It also has peacocks in the gardens - wonderful gardens which we will have to explore another evening.

Sitting down to a delicious meal at the chateau.


After some Kir and nibbles, we were soon sitting down to a delicous meal, the log fire burning in the fireplace.

Coffee by the fire after dinner.


No one stayed up late - all tired from the journey and ready for bed, though one or two lingered by the fire over coffee...




12th April

Breakfast at the chateau.Croissants and cereal for breakfast, then we picked up our baguette packed lunches and set off for Pont D'Ouvre on foot - at a very reasonable time of 10am.

Getting ready to go.




Looking back at the chateau.



Pont D'Ouvre is the visitor centre for the Regional Park of Cotendin et Bessin - situated on the outskirts of our nearest town, Carentan.

Walking away from the chateau.



The Parc covers all the Marais in this area - wetlands which are flooded in winter, and which supply rich pasturage in summer.

Cows out on rented chateau land.

We took a track across the marais to get to the centre, passing a field with spotted Normandy cows on it even though the herds aren't yet officially back 'out on the marais'.

Looking back at La Haute Maison - a manor farm near the chateau.


Walking across the marais.





Walking to the bird hide.


Unfortunately we found that the Centre was being re-built and was closed, bue we were able to walk to the hide beside the Douvre.

View from the hide.

From the hide we spotted a great crested Grebe, as well as plenty of swans and coots.

Le Pont Douvre.


Marai also spotted that the cafe by the car park was open - so we had a coffee before Justine and Mick arrived with car and minibus to take us to our main walk.

Brevands church.

Our walk today was to start from Brevands - a small village with a 13th century church built on the site of an earlier chuch near the Carentan canal.

Romanesque roof.Primroses everywhere.








Lunch near the canal.


From here we walked down to the 'Port' where we stopped in the lee of a building for lunch - it being rather blowy beside the water.

Beautiful tilework on the building where we sheltered

The Carentan canal was built by Napoleon, who hoped to link the east and west coasts of Normandy, however, the project was never finished.

Walking beside the Carentan canal.


The tide was coming in against a westerly wind making for some very rough water, and we walked along the bank towards the Baie des Veys with the wind behind us.

Old boat on the mud.

Turning inland we then followed a farm track through the marais, passing Le Chalet (a large half-timbered building) that Napoleon built for his customs inspectors.

Passing the Chalet.



View across the marais.




Maisons de terre.



Le Colombier.




Our circuit took us past some old 'maisons de terre' (earth houses) which are common in this area, then on past Le Colombier - a stone-built manor farm.

The Lavoire.


Finally, finishing back in Brevands we passed a 'lavoire' where women used to wash clothes communally.

Walking down the avenue of trees to Brevands church.

We regained Brevands church 5 minutes before Justine and Mick arrived to pick us up.

Waiting in the sun for our transport home.



Taking the sun on the terrace!




Back at the chateau, the terrace looked very appealing in the sunshine.

View from the terrace.

We congregated there with our cups of tea, little madelaines (cakes), and our sun glasses! All very civilised!





The front of the chateau.




Before supper, some of us were to be found strolling in the garden taking photos in the evening light...

View over the lake from one of the bridges.
One of the male peacocks displaying - unfortunately not in the sun!







Helping ourselves from the buffet.

Dinner was a delicious lentil dish for the vegetarians, or real meat sausages in lentils for the rest of the group - and, were those sausages appreciated!

Sitting around the fire after supper.





A beautiful log fire.



The topics that came up as we later sat in front of the fire were wide ranging - watching the flames by candle light before bed....




13th April

River Vire at St Fromond. (Diana Cantor)We woke to sunshine again, and after another lazy start, we were driven to Saint Fromond - a village about 20 minutes drive away on the edge of the marais.





From here our walk took us first along the River Vire, then beside a short stretch of canal before turning up onto slightly higher ground overlooking the marais.

Blackthorn in flower.

We walked past small orchards, open fields ready for ploughing, trees full of mistletoe, an organic smallholding run by an English family...

Walking up through the wood.



Our route then took us up gently through an oak wood full of wood anenomes and primroses, to emerge onto higher ground.

Violets in the wood.



Primroses galore.








Cherry or apple in flower.




Walking up the old lane with high banks.



At Le Haut des Landes we turned onto a old lane bordered by high banks full of spring flowers.

Spotted orchid  - Early Purple?

The lane dipped down then rose again, and we spotted a stunning spotted orchid in full bloom.

Looking at the orchids.






Looking at the Abbey.


At times we could see the Abbey of Saint Fromond across the fields.

A field of white cows.



Bluebells....




Wood anenomes.








Lunch in a sheltered sunny spot.




We had fun at one point - negotiating a stretch of serious mud churned up by a farm vehicle - then found ourselves a perfect lunch spot in the sun with views over the surrounding low hills.

Walking towards the abbey.

Descending towards the abbey road, we passed the most stunning bank of flowers - everything all mixed together: primroses, cellandine, violets, wood anenomes, orchids....





The Abbey of Saint Fromond.Inside the abbey.




We emerged onto a small road and now turned towards the Abbey.

Misericord with 3 faces.


L'Abbatiale de Saint Fromond is an imposing set of buildings with a working farm beside it.

Face of a woman.



The first monastery was founded here by Saint Fromond, but the church has been burnt by the Vikings then rebuilt several times - most recently after being bombed in WW2.


We took a look inside, and found some beautiful misericords under the fold down seats, and also spent time looking at the graves...





From here it was only a short walk back to St Fromond where unfortunately the cafe was still serving Sunday lunch, and had no hands spare to serve 12 thirsty women!

Waiting for our pickup to arrive. (Valerie Bracken)

So while waiting for our lifts to arrive we took a siesta beside the river watching a yellow wagtail and hoping for a kingfisher.

Tea and cake on the terrace.





The mermaid in front of the chateau. (Valerie Bracken)




Dinner at the chateau.



Tea and cake on the terrace is now a habit, and we relaxed in the sun counting ourselves very lucky - especially since there was no wind to speak of today.

Justine giving us a tour of the garden.

After dinner that evening, Justine gave us a tour of the gardens.

The tiny chapel - with a view...View from the chapel.





The Bellanau gardens are wonderful - especially if you love trees and follies rather than lots of flowers.

Ferns beside a waterway.

The chateau has the oldest palms in France, and the highest Monkey Puzzle tree.

Looking back at the chapel.Inside the kitchen grotto - which actually has a fireplace!







Crossing one of the bridges.



They were planted so long ago when Pierre La Fosse inherited the chateau and imported trees from exotic climes.

View from the little peak we climbed.

There is a tiny chapel, pathways and bridges over waterways and a small lake, islands, grottos, and even a sort of peak you can climb for a view out over the trees.

In the vegetable garden.


Justine had put candles in the grottos for extra effect....

Checking out the asparagus bed.


Sun setting on the clouds. (Diana Cantor)





We also admired the asparagus in the vegetable garden, and took a tour around the perimeter of the waterways.




14th April

Croissants for breakfast.Not a cloud in the sky this morning as we set off for Chateau Pirou - a small, moated castle near the west coast which has been beautifully restored.

The first of four gates to Pirou castle.




We fell in love with it immediately.

Pirou castle.

It was a human-sized castle, with a turret and quaint ramparts, twisting staircases, and even a tapestry - all be it one embroidered in modern times.

Looking back at the 4th gate.




Walking to the tapestry.



The huge cidre press.




We spent a happy hour wandering around, climbing to the ramparts, checking out the bread ovens and inglenook fireplaces, and walking around the tapestry.

Chapel ceiling shaped like a boat.

A Pirou tapestry - inspired by Bayeux.






Women on the ramparts!

Walking across the moat.Looking out through the arrow slits. (Diana Cantor)






The only turret remaining (it used to have 6).




One woman wanted to take a day off to enjoy Pirou beach and the cafes there, while the rest of us drove a short way to a dune walk near the River Ay estuary.

The start of our walk.

We started from Creances Plage and walked north along the beach.






Huge expance of beach.



The sea was miles out across the sand and it seemed unimaginable that it could come in so far.

Finding a sun trap for lunch.


We followed a channel of the river Ay, then climbed up into the dunes to find a sun-trap for lunch.

Looking back at the beech from the dunes.

Continuing north, we now walked among the dunes, spotting orchids that were yet to come into flower, and occasionally coming up onto a dune top for the view across the estuary.

Looking across the channel. (Sheila Black)

Looking south along the dunes and beach.






Expanse of sand across the estuary.

Already the tide was coming in and the channels were widening.

View across the estuary.



At the tip we turned alongside the estuary, and marvelled at the fields of sand where carrots and leeks were being grown.

Walking through the dunes.

Leeks being grown.






Walking back through the dunes.

Many of the fields were already harvested, leaving the occasional leek for us to take back to Justine for dinner!

Diana scrumping leeks for supper. (Diana Cantor)



Leeks being grown.





View of the sea again - with the tide further in.




We wandered back through these fields of sand - often with manure piled beside them waiting to be added later, or already spread with seaweed from the nearby beach.

Tea or coffee at Pirou Plage.


We finished our walk with a short stretch through the pines - then drove back to Pirou Plage to find Louise and have a cup of tea or some wonderful coffee.

The patisserie opened next door.


When the nearby patisserie opened at 4pm, some of us were in seventh heaven!

Back at the chateau, we relaxed in the late afternoon ready for another delicious dinner prepared for us by Justine and Mick.




15th April

Manor farm in Ryes.A relatively early start today - we breakfasted at 8.00, so that we could be off by 9.00 to near Arramanches in the neighbouring department of Calvados.

A bell for calling farm workers to dinner.




Our walk started from the village of Ryes, walking via a couple of manor farms to the village church.

The village lavoire.


Some ornate dressed stone at one farm.





The village church.


Up the hill from here (a gentle hill!) we gained a broad ridge top which we followed towards the sea.

Starting along the ridge.


The weather was perfect - bright and sunny with a gentle breeze coming from behind us.

Walking along the ridge.


The sun shone through the young leaves and blades of grass making the colours really vibrant.

Cowslips galore.


View south from the ridge.





Reaching a view of the sea.


Further along, the sea came into view, and we gently descended for a while before turning north and climbing again to another short ridge top.










Our first sight of the Mulberry Harbour.


Now when we reached the sea we could see all of Arramanches' Mulberry Harbour spread out before us.

Approaching Arramanches. (Sheila Black)


Normandy cows and calves. (Sheila Black)





Remains of the Mulberry Harbour.


This harbour was towed and carried across the channel in pieces on D Day, and used to re-supply the allied forces.

Looking north to the cliffs.


From the cliffs above the small resort town of Arramanches you can still see huge concrete blocks out to sea, and one or two are washed up on the beach.

The 360 degree cinema.

We also went to see the short film at the 360 degree cinema - a very moving compilation of war correspondents' footage intersperced with shots of Normandy today, and finishing with the a view of the war cemetaries....

Arramanches.

After lunch looking on the cliffs nearby, we walked down through Arramanches with time for a coffee before catching the public bus to Bayeux.

Coffee in Arramanches.



A Mulberry section permenantly washed up on the shore.




One of the half timbered buildings of Bayeux.



We now had a whole afternoon for this lovely small medieval town, including seeing the Bayeux Tapestry, and wandering the narrow streets, occasionally overhung by a half-timbered house.

The river and mill wheel in the centre of Bayeux.The Cathedral from near the Tapestry building.



The Bayeux Tapestry was amazing - the detail, the expressions on the faces, the scenes of Norman life, the history...

Bayeux Tapestry - from a postcard.


Scenes of farming practices from the borders of the tapestry (from postcards).





The romanesque central nave - the oldest section of the cathedral at Bayeux.

Afterwards, most of us walked to the cathedral, and some of us went down into the cript to see the frescos.

In the Little Train. (Diana Cantor)





The Little Train around the old town then appealed - a lazy way to see everything!

View up the river. (Sheila Black)Detail of the cathedral front (Sheila Black)









Small detail on an old building...

In Bayeux.









Dinner in Bayeux.

We all met up again in time for an early dinner in Rue Saint Jean near the river.

Desserts along the table.




We enjoyed a wide choice of dishes - omelettes, fish dishes, pizza or salads, and finished with some delicious desserts.

Sun setting on the cathedral where we were picked up.


Mick and Justine came to pick us up - kindly adjusting the pickup time at short notice when we were ready a little earlier than planned. The sun was just setting...

A cup of tea in the sitting room before bed.


Back at the chateau, some women sat around chatting over a cup of tea before bed.




16th April

On Utah beach.Last walking day - and again the sun shone for us. Today we were headed for Utah Beach where the Americans landed there during D Day.

View down the beach.



We set out along the beach towards La Baie des Veys, headed for the nature reserve at the point.

Cart racing horses being exercised.

Cart-racing horses were being exercised on the sands as we walked along, and there was a flock of oyster catchers to be seen at the waters edge.

Horses being exercised.


Just the hat for the beach!





Oyster catchers.


At one point, two setters joined us and seemed likely to adopt us for the day - not great news when you're headed for a nature reserve!

Walking along Utah Beach.

We headed up onto the dyke which forms the outer boundary of the reserve, but found the path overgrown with brambles and soon returned to the beach.

Walking next to the salt marsh.


We had a lovely break looking out at the sea. The tide was on its way out, and now we could see a flock of cormerants at the edge of the sand.

Returning to the beach for a break.

We walked on, keeping to the sand when a certain amount of salt marsh vegetation built up between us and the gorse.




Unfortunately, this meant that when we turned towards our nature reserve path again, we had a wide tract of mud to cross, including several channels.

Even flowers grew here.








Crossing the mud!! (Diana Cantor)


Diana giving a hand up onto solid ground.





Reaching the gorse again.



It was guite an effort to get across the mud - and definitely not one that we'll repeat next year!



Returning to our path, it was now bordered by gorse and the smell of coconut was superb in the warm sun, so we stopped for a breather to enjoy the view inland across the marais.

Walking to Le Grand Vey.

Carrying on, we now passed a small hamlet called Houseville, and after following a pretty lane, we reached another hamlet called le Grand Vey looking out over the bay.

View from le Grand Vey.

Unfortunately, the little cafe here was closed despite local info to the contrary, and some of the group decided that without refreshment they wouldn't be able to go further!

Cafe Roger - closed, unfortunately.


Cafe Roger.








Blackthorn on our way back.

So, while 5 of us walked back to the cafe where we'd parked the minibus, the rest relaxed in a sunny spot and waited to be picked up.

Walking back to Utah Beach.







Coipu spotted in the water.

The 5 of us who walked back along the other side of the nature reserve spotted 3 coipu swimming one of the wide ditches.

Trees coming into leaf.



Coipu were introduced here after the war when people didn't have enough to eat - however they are now considered a pest as they eat the tree roots along the marais ditches.

Last stretch back along the road.

All back at Utah beach, we had a coffee or tea at the eccentric Roosevelt cafe - full of WW2 memorabilia and old newspaper cuttings.

Roads named after fallen soldiers. (Diana Cantor)




At the Roosevelt Cafe. (Diana Cantor)



Last view of Utah Beach.




Chimney sweeping!



At the chateau, Justine had discovered a freshly built crow's nest in the main chimney - so Mick had to turn chimney sweep before the fire could be lit again!

Justine serving the asparagus.

That evening we had the first of this season's crop of asparagus as a starter.

Chocolate mouse to finish.



This was followed by galettes, then chocolate mouse.

Feeding Ra - the oldest peacock.


Marai being presented with a palm tree.





After supper we gave Mick and Justine a thank you present, and they in turn gave Marij a palm seedling as a thankyou for help she had given in the garden.




17th April

Waiting to board.Early start with breakfast at 6am. We were all ready early despite being reluctant to leave. Our ferry back was from Caen and would sail at 9am.

In Caen, Mick and Justine came into the ferry terminal for a coffee with us.

View of Caen from the big deck.

Lots of hugs all round when they left - they had been wonderful, and we had felt so well looked after and catered for.

Exploring on deck before setting sail.

For this return trip we were sailing from Caen on a big ferry. You had the feeling that it wouldn't lean in the waves whatever their size - and it didn't!

We had a very calm crossing, sitting around chatting and reading on comfy seats in the bar, wandering out on deck for a breath of fresh air... A relaxed finish to a relaxed holiday!



Women's Feedback

"I wanted a relaxed break at the end of what had been for me a difficult winter. I couldn't have asked for anything better. We were fortunate with the weather but it seemed as though we had fast forwarded a month or two and landed into a lovely mild spring. The walking of about 3 hrs a day at a leisurely pace was wonderful, no rush, chilled. The variety of walks through rolling country, across marshland and round beaches of sand dunes and mud flats entertaining and interesting. I just loved Normandy. Looking at birds and flowers then experiencing the very different historical sites at Bayeux and Pirou and the Normandy landing at Arromanches kept us entertained. The Bellanau was wonderful. Being woken in the morning by the peacock family on my balcony, the truly amazing gardens, the big log fire at night made the atmosphere magical. Justine and Mike were very welcoming and put themselves out to make sure we had every thing we needed. I had heard the food was good before I booked. I wasn't disappointed. The group on this holiday melded well. Thanks for your input Diana I wouldn't hesitate in recommending this holiday to anyone". Valerie

"I thoroughly enjoyed 'Normandy' holiday and thought the walks were just right.  Mick and especially Justine could not have been more hospitable or hardworking and they really made the holiday extra pleasant. The Chateau and gardens were so interesting and a great place to unwind.   I know it's boring but I have no fault with the holiday -  even the mud!  The company and relaxation plus the stimulation of exploring that part of Normandy ensured a truly lovely stay.    I have seen the photos and they were a good reminder of the time we spent.  Thank you for your hard work". Carolyn

"Not used to walking and feeling this holiday might be a different way to see Normandy, I was not disappointed. In fact, Gentle Normandy was wonderful. The walks I remember are those that had an unexpected challenge - down a rutted laneway of wet, red clay where you'd to watch where you next put your Brasher; or, on 'Utah' beach, making our way through grey, very wet, marsh clay to reach dry land. These were unexpected milestones that made a long, flat walk that bit more interesting, so that you felt good afterwards, having 'overcome nature', albeit in a small way. The most inspiring and memorable walk was to Arramanche: a long, slow, gentle climb to the brow of the hill, from where, spread before us, was the plain, with the sea in the distance, its beautiful greens and yellows, so peaceful now and being grateful for that but feeling too the tragedy of so many young men, often three from one family, dying on J-Jour (D Day). And it wasn't all about walking. The group of walkers were fun to be with, great talkers and listeners. Many went out of their way to offer advice and help with walking. Diana was a considerate, thoughtful leader who tried to help everyone get what they wanted. As an inexperienced walker, I was most grateful for her flexibility and, on occasion, going out of her way to take account of my lack of fitness. She never once got exasperated. As I said to her in Portsmouth, I'd go into the jungle with her any day. The accommodation was excellent - Justine and Mick were a world apart from the usual holiday hosts, being helpful and generous not only with their hospitality but with their time and energy. The only negative I had was the lateness of the evening meal (7-7.30pm). I found it difficult to sleep after it and this affected my tiredness and fitness, as I couldn't recover properly each evening. And, yes, I did try eating less and cutting out the wine, in case you should ask!" Louise

"A brilliant holiday! The chateau was an unforgettable experience with magical grounds (caves, lakes, bridges, peacocks and geese), large, warm and comfortable bedrooms, tasty local food and very welcoming and hospitable hosts. Nothing was too much trouble! I particularly enjoyed the mix of walking (along country lanes and at the coast); culture and history(D Day landings, battles and Bayeux). I would thoroughly recommend this holiday." Jean


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