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WalkingWomen ------ ---Intermediate Nepal Intermediate Nepal 16 Feb-2 March |
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The flight was a chance to start getting to know each other as they flew on the overnight Qatar Airlines flight to Doha, sleeping as best they could. In Doha they boarded the ongoing flight to Kathmandu, arriving there in the afternoon of the following day. |
17th Feb
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![]() Asha welcomed the group to Nepal by presenting them with marigold garlands, then we climbed on board for our journey into the Thamel district of Kathmandu. ![]() There were miles of stationary traffic at the roadside, waiting for fuel to be delivered to the depots. No fuel was coming in from India due to a bhande (strike) in the Terai region. ![]() On arrival at Hotel Thamel we had a short chat about the rooms, drinking water, money changing details etc, whilst they drank their welcome cups of tea. ![]() Everyone put their kit in their rooms and had the chance to freshen up before dinner. ![]() I had arranged for us to eat at Pilgrims Restaurant that night nearby - as everyone were tired and needed some sleep. We sat on cushions around low tables and enjoyed our meals. There was discussion about Nepali plumbing and the squat toilets to be encountered on trek! |
18th Feb
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Took our time wandering around the temple complex as I explained various features to the women. I also tried out the local loo for them, giving it a 4 star rating so they were happy to use it! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Our planned visit to Bahktapur had to be cancelled as a local bhande within the city was preventing buses from leaving the area once they had arrived, which meant that we would have been unable to return. ![]() So, a change of plan We diverted to Pashupatinath, which was busy today with many cremations taking place and many people going to the temple for prayer. ![]() We sat for a while, on the terrace up on the hillside amongst the small temples, watching the daily comings and goings across the river in the temple balcony area. ![]() ![]() ![]() Then we went over the bridge to see the entrance to the largest Hindu temple in Nepal, non-Hindus not allowed in, but we could see into the courtyard where there was an enormous statue of Nanda the bull. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() From there we walked a couple of km to visit two other temples along the Bagmati River. ![]() Back to the bus and a short drive to Bodanath, the biggest Buddhist Stupa in Nepal. ![]() We went up to a roof top restaurant for lunch which overlooked the stupa and gave us a fantastic overview of the whole complex. ![]() ![]() ![]() After lunch we spent a leisurely hour or so doing the rounds (clockwise of course) of the Stupa. ![]() Very peaceful atmosphere. A few of us had a blessing for good health and a safe journey, from one of the monks. ![]() We were given a small prayer scroll, bound in silk thread, to wear around our necks. ![]() Everyone agreed that they had really enjoyed their visit to Bodanath. ![]() Finally we drove out to visit the Temple of the Lying Goddess on the outskirts of Kathmandu. ![]() This temple is sacred to both Hindu and Buddhist. ![]() Our meal that evening was at the traditional Thamel House restaurant. ![]() Here we were served traditional Newari food, and again we were seated on cushions around a low table. |
19th Feb
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![]() Arriving in Pokhara we were driven from the airfield to Hotel Meera, where we settled into our comfortable rooms, with a pretty garden to sit in, and very friendly staff. ![]() We had lunch at Phewa Tail restaurant down on the lakeside, watching local life as it goes by. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() After lunch we walked to Devi Falls, where we spent a while looking around before walking on to the nearby Tibetan refugee camp to visit their carpet factory. ![]() We watched young women weaving the intricate patterns into the carpets, whilst old women sat outside spinning the wool for them to use. ![]() ![]() ![]() The walk back to the hotel took us through paddi fields, farmland, and across a rickety bridge over the river where locals were doing their bathing and laundry. ![]() Once back at the hotel, Lorraine and Diane went off to have a massage, others sat in the garden reading or talking. Early night tonight as we'll be up before sunrise tomorrow! |
20th Feb
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Our bus dropped us off in the dark and we had a 40 minute climb to reach Sarankot summit and watch the sunrise over the Annapurna range of mountains. ![]() We were not disappointed, the sun started to light up the mountains soon after we reached the top: Annapurna South, Hinchuli, Machhupuchhre, Annapurna iv, Lamjura, and in the distance, Dhauligiri. ![]() A beautiful sight even though it was misty. We stayed for an hour taking photos and just taking in the view. ![]() ![]() ![]() From here we descended to a small lodge to have some tea and our packed breakfasts. We still had some excellent views of the mountains from there. ![]() From Sarankot we then spent the next few hours walking down to the lake. ![]() Some of the group did a little shopping on the way down, buying items directly from the women who had woven them. ![]() Our walk took us through terraced farmland, along narrow ridges and even a detour up and around a recent landslide. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() We stopped at a local restaurant for tea when we reached the lakeside, before continuing our journey back to our hotel. ![]() The rest of the day was free for everyone to spend as they wished. ![]() Jess had arranged to have the infamous "Nepali Massage" from which she returned sore but intact! We sorted our gear out for our departure up into the hills tomorrow. and had a final talk about what to expect on the trek - including the perils of "donkey flies" which can give an itchy bite at certain altitudes even if mosquitos are absent. |
21st Feb
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We set out on our "local bus", everyone, group, porters and baggage, packed on board. We had an uneventful journey to reach the start of our trek at Naya Pul, but there were always interesting sights to see out of the window. The porters sorted out their loads, and we all set off along a dusty trail. The weather clear giving us fine views of Machhapuchhre - a good start for our trek. ![]() ![]() Today was only a short day today, staying fairly low level alongside the river so we reached our destination, Riverside Guest House, at Syauli Bazaar, in about 2 ½ hrs, just in time to order lunch.
The flies have started biting, and guess who got bitten first! Once lunch was over the women wandered about exploring the village or going down to the river. Some sat reading or writing journals. ![]() ![]() A small number, led by Diane, found a vacant buffalo shed and used it as a venue for their yoga session. ![]() In the evening, the local people arranged a culture show for us - to raise money for hydro electricity project. ![]() ![]() It was all very spontaneous, and we all joined in with the dancing. ![]() ![]() Our porters and guide took part in a singing contest against the locals, and our boys won! ![]() ![]() |
22nd Feb
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Syauli Bazaar to Ghandrung - 700m ascent
And even though our ascent was easily within the 750m limit of the Intermediate grade, it was a very respectable achievement. ![]() The long climb was mostly on stone steps winding up the hillside. Our pace was good, and we reached our first tea stop in an hour. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Then it was onward and upward through little Gurung villages, terraces and paddi fields - walking the track which is the only route through these hills, and all life takes place along it. Pauline had brought numerous small cuddly toys with her to give to the poorer kids that have no toys, and she started to hand them out enroute. ![]() The smiles on their faces when they received the toys were priceless. ![]() We continued on up to our usual lunch stop and spent 1½ hrs sitting sunning ourselves on the tea house lawn and eating our lunch. ![]() Then it was up up some more until we reached Gurung Cottage at Ghandrung. ![]() We felt the colder air of high altitude already, so warm clothes were essential. ![]() However, we also had ensuite facilities at this accommodation, which was unusual and quite a treat! ![]() We ordered Dal Bhat for dinner (Lentil Dhal, rice, vegetables) - the commonly available fare of the mountains.
Then it was early to bed again as everyone was well tired! |
23rd Feb
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Ghandrung to Chomrong via Komrong.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() We set off from our tea room in Ghandrung, walking through the last old houses of the village with stunning views across to the Annapurna range. ![]() ![]() At Komrong, we stopped at a tea house on the ridge and watched donkeys trailing past and six young girls carrying doka (baskets) on their backs, full of wood, very heavily laden. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() We then started down towards the Kimrong River, zig zag trail, very steep and dusty. ![]() Crossed over a rough wooden bridge at the river and up to Kimrong were we had lunch. ![]() At Kimrong we were all greeted by an elderly lady who gave us each a hug and presented us with a small flower which she placed behind our ears. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() On calculating I estimated we reached 2900m today - and it was probably our toughest day with lots of stone steps to climb. ![]() Our steep climb up after lunch included detouring around a landslide to reach Excellent View Lodge at Chomrong. ![]() ![]() A long hard day, spending probably 6 hours actually slogging up and down. The group did very well. ![]() What's more, at one point on the way to Chomrong Lorraine selflessly grabbed the horns of a bull who was barring our way, and so allowed women to pass safely until relieved of her heroic task by our gallant guide Kumar. A true and witnessed event! ![]() That evening we had under the table heating in the dining room as it was very cold. We spent the evening chatting away in the warmth with a great deal of laughter. |
24th Feb
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![]() ![]() Another biggish day in the hills today - not least because we had to return over the landslide. ![]() ![]() ![]() We then contoured for a while before our descent to recross the river further up the valley. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() We walked through farmland, where fields were being ploughed using cows or buffalo, and people sorting out piles of dung ready to plough into the earth. ![]() Just before we reached the river, we stopped for a drink to ready ourselves for our 'up'. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Again a zig zag dusty track for about an hour till we reached our lunch stop at a very luxurious "Welcome View Lodge and restaurant". ![]() ![]() ![]() The wind blew and we experienced some large rain spots, so we retreated from the lawn to the dining room for lunch. ![]() Luckily the rain stopped before we set off for the remaining couple of hours trek to Tadapani. ![]() Trekking through rhododendron forest with the scent of Daphne in the air was a botanists paradise. ![]() We reached Tadapani where we booked into Superview Hotel. It was basic but the staff were very friendly and food was good. Again we had under table heating. Our hosts have their own "sales room" in the "dinning area" and some of us purchased very fetching hats and gloves for the colder climb ahead of us early the next morning. Diane did her best to get women to buy the goods, is she on commission we wonder? A great deal of laughter and conversation in the group again this evening. Eight of us decide to play the story telling game and end up with the tale of "Leti the Yeti", and the yak. It ended with them married and off in a helicopter to fly around Everest for their honeymoon! (I'm sure it's the altitude that's affecting us!) |
25th Feb
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Tadapani to Ghorepani.
![]() ![]() We have a journey that starts downhill today, but only for half an hour! ![]() All through forest, but not a monkey to be seen unfortunately, although the rhododendrons are in bloom. ![]() The climb up commences and we reach our teahouse rest stop in 45 minutes. All is well. ![]() ![]() ![]() It is very quiet on the trail, there are not many trekkers about. ![]() We then head into the steep sided valley and follow the river towards Banthanti and our usual tea stop. ![]() Banthanti nestled between the high valley walls which are resplendent with pink primroses. ![]() We walk to the sound of the river rushing down over the rocks, and see fantastic ice formations on the valley walls as we pass. ![]() ![]() We cross and recross the river over small bridges and continue up into the head of the valley, zig zag fashion until we come out on top at Deurali. This is our lunch stop, and there are also trinkets and fabrics on sale - one woman purchases a Yak wool jacket.
After lunch we head on up and along the ridge, still through the forest, slow going as quite a bit of ice on the trail, making it slippery underfoot. It is very misty when we emerge out onto the ridge, which we follow for a while before descending to Ghorepani, which finally comes into view. ![]() We go to Annapurna View Lodge again, very hospitable as ever. I have ordered egg and chip for everyone, followed by rice pudding for dessert tonight for a change from Dal Bhat. Good decision. ![]() Great banter again this evening, we have decided to have a quiz night at some stage over the next few days so each of us has to come up with 5 Questions. |
26th Feb
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Ghorepani - Poon Hill - Ulleri
![]() ![]() Wrapped up in our warmest gear, head torches glowing in the dark we began the hour long ascent to Poon Hill. ![]() Many of us had munched on Mars or energy bars to fuel us for the journey. ![]() Jenny, Lorraine and Klara were the first to "summit" followed by Sue, Rosemary, June and myself at a more leisurely pace. ![]() Very few people were up there to witness the spectacular sunrise. We had it mostly to ourselves. ![]() We had a warming cup of hot chocolate from the little bhatti whilst waiting for the light to show. ![]() The spectacle began, and the women were amazed as the sun rays started to hit the tops of the mountains and spread downwards, as the sun rose higher. ![]() ![]() ![]() Plenty of photos taken, of mountains and group members suitably posed around Poon Hill sign post with height of 3210m painted on it. ![]() Time to descend to our lodge for breakfast with the other women who had stayed behind. ![]() Once breakfast's over we can start the first of our two days of descent to bring us down from our lofty perch. ![]() We leave the blue tin lodges of Ghoripani behind; there is still some ice on the trail so we tread carefully. ![]() We stop for a cuppa at Nagnathanti, Pauline is still finding teddy bears to hand out to the children, and a few of the children are given energy bars that we have spare. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Lots of smiles and waving as we leave there. ![]() Carrying on down alongside the river, photos are taken of rhododendron, mahonia, waterfalls, donkeys, sheep, cows and people. ![]() I stayed at the rear making sure that we had no stragglers or problems on our way. ![]() ![]() Stopped for lunch at Banthati, I did running repairs on Carolyn's blistered toe, before pronouncing her "fit to trek". ![]() There was plenty to watch during our lunch stop: birdlife, local people at work, or carrying loads and fodder; mules going passed in long trains... ![]() ![]() ![]() After lunch we descend for a final hour or so down to Surprise View Lodge at Ulleri. ![]() We had showers before settling in a warm dining room to chat, read, and write journals before dinner: Dhal Bhat, very tasty, for dinner, followed by apple and banana pancake. After dinner while people chatted, I sat talking with our guide and porters to practice my Nepali. Early night as we have been up since 4.30am and have had a long day. |
27th Feb
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Ulleri to Birebthanti
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() It gets warmer as we descend down past the landslide that destroyed homes and killed 30 people two years ago. I explained what happened and pointed out the recent memorials. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() We crossed two sturdy suspension bridges by the waterfalls and stopped at Turkhedunga for a tea break. ![]() A mule train came past, climbing up to Ulleri. One of the mules was carrying 4 piglets in cages slung over its back! ![]() Our usual lunch stop by the river was not available as they already had a group there so not enough food to make lunch for ours. ![]() We carried on a little further to eat, then sat by the river pools afterwards - a chance to soak our feet and watch the river flowing past. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() There is more farmland at this elevation, people ploughing, sowing seeds, clearing terraces, harvesting potatoes. ![]() Then, before we realize it, we have reached Birenthanti and our permits are being checked in at the trekking check post. ![]() We have safely completed our trek, and have arrived at Moonlight Lodge for our final night in the hills. ![]() We have a celebration at dinner with chocolate cake, speeches and presentations of Kata (prayer scarf) by Asha, to each of our group. ![]() No electricity here so torch and candlelight to see by. |
28th Feb
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Birenthanti to Pokhara
![]() ![]() Children are eating their breakfast and feeding their younger siblings. ![]() All our gear is packed up for the final time and our porters set off with it on a 20 minute journey to Naya Pul, and we followed. ![]() At Naya Pul, we sat and watched the local comings and goings - people and goats on the tops of buses - while waiting for our bus which was a little late. ![]() We all climbed on board with our guides and porters and headed back into Pokhara, along the winding road full of hairpin bends to the valley floor, then through the fields into town and our hotel. ![]() We unloaded the bus said our thanks and goodbyes to our porters - then headed for a well deserved shower! We had spent the last week having few showers and recycling the same clothing. ![]() After lunch I took Jenny and Klara, with Kumar, across the lake by boat and then we climbed up to the Peace Temple. ![]() It was still being restored and we could not go up onto the balcony but the views from the temple were impressive. ![]() Back in Pokhara we took the opportunity to eat, shop and chill out as we return to Kathmandu tomorrow.
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29th Feb
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Pokhara to Kathmandu
![]() We finally reach Kathmandu and we are soon back at Hotel Thamel. ![]() Some of us arranged to meet up after lunch to go to the "fixed price shop" to buy gifts to take home. ![]() Others went to Durbar Square in rickshaws, and what an experience that was! There are many temples to see in Durbar Square. ![]() Pauline and I went to B.Ks local "chip shop" for lunch to find that Sue and June were already there, having discovered our favourite place! ![]() We were then joined by Klara and Jenny who spotted us eating our lunch. ![]() ![]() The women were happy doing their shopping at Amritas fixed price shop, enjoying their rummaging about, much to the joy of the shop owner. ![]() They were all given a glass of tea whilst making decisions about their purchases. ![]() That night we had our last evening meal of the holiday at Pilgrims, again with a lot of banter and laughter to accompany our meal. Everything was packed up and ready to leave tomorrow. |
1st March
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Last day in Kathmandu
![]() They really enjoyed the trip despite spending 3 hours at the airport waiting for the weather to clear. ![]() ![]() ![]() Others did last minute shopping and wandering round Thamel taking time to have lunch or sit and watch the sights of Kathmandu. ![]() Asha again presented us with Kata to wish us a healthy life and a safe journey home, then we said our goodbyes to him outside the airport building. Checking in when very smoothly, as did our flihgt to Doha where we had a 4 hour stop over before our flight to Heathrow which arrived the following morning. We all hugged each other and said our goodbyes before our onward journeys home. All safe and sound at the end of a great experience in Nepal. |
Women's Feedback
"I had a fantastic time, the trip met all my expectations and then some! The pace of the walks was just right for me, and I could happily have trekked for the whole fortnight. The local guides and porters were friendly and helpful, and we all felt looked after by them. Nepal was somewhere I had always wanted to go, and WW made sure it was the holiday I had wanted it to be. Most of us kept our open minds and our sense of humour, as required on the kit list (!), and any problems were minor and didn't spoil our enjoyment. The Meera Hotel was lovely, and just what we needed after the trek finished and we were all worn out and filthy! The teahouses were necessarily basic due to the nature of the trip, but they provided what we needed and the food was consistently excellent. Both hotels did a great job considering the lack of electricity a lot of the time. Both Linda and Lorraine did a good job of making sure we felt informed and cared for. Linda was knowledgeable and always willing to answer our questions, and her insider tips from years of trekking in Nepal were invaluable. The walks in general were well planned and organised. Lorraine always made sure we all had the information we needed before each day's walk... In general, an excellent trip, as usual. Well planned, and the knowledge of both Linda and the local guides enriched our experiences. We saw a lot of Kathmandu, despite some political problems that disrupted our itinerary, and it was nice in Pokhara to be able to go off in groups for meals, rather than being regimented". Jenny
"Excellent holiday - exceeded expectations. Very well organised. Accommodation was as expected for such a holiday in such a place. Guides both English and Nepali v. good - very attentive without being over bearing. Walks very good - only wish it had been for longer. Please pass on my thanks to ww and the guides for a fantastic holiday.". Klara
"Just back from Nepal and wanted to
say what a good trek it had been. Thanks to everyone who helped us have a
successful trip... It was a challenging trek, thank goodness I had spent time
getting prepared for it. All my expectations and more were met. To see life
lived by the Nepalese, which can only be seen by walking to, and through the
area, added greatly to the enjoyment and PAIN! Great accommodation, as you
would expect on a trek. A little more info on a tea house, and perhaps a photo,
would have laid any fears I might have had. Guides in their own individual ways
looked after us very well." June
(There are several tea house photos on the
Accommodation page of the website, and on previous year's holiday
photos).
"Generally I found I learned a lot from the trip but on the whole the holiday was more of an experience rather than a relaxing break... The holiday has certainly not put me off any other such destinations in the future, but next time I will be more equipped and experienced to have a better idea of the conditions (absence of hot showers on trek, squat loos, more limited food choices). The hotel in Pokhara was lovely and my favourite place because of its facilities and cleanliness. Plus I liked Pokhara as it wasn't so busy as Khatmandu. The guide's on the whole were very good and answered any questions or concerns. I know Lorraine was worried as some of us found the ascent harder than we had anticipated and tried to reassure us. They were very encouraging and both had a very good knowledge of trekking. No complaints with them at all. " Sharon
"It was great. I felt a wonderful sense of achievement at the end of the trek. It was hard work and I have never felt good at hills but we were able to take the walks at our own pace and I never felt rushed. If it had been classed as a higher grade, I would not have gone on it, and would have missed the opportunity to see this wonderful country! The accommodation was fine. The lodges on the trek were basic, but that was all part of the experience, and we knew we had to expect that. I soon got used to only washing when it was absolutely necessary! I felt very well looked after, Linda knows the country, the people, and the trails so well. The porters were also fantastic and took wonderful care of us. Linda stayed at the back on the walks and didn't mind that I went slowly. She pointed out so many things that I would have otherwise missed as I was busy watching my feet! Linda was also very patient and took us to places to shop and helped us to appreciate the culture and people of Nepal. Her sense of humour made the holiday a joy. The right mix of a few days either side of the trek to see the sights of Kathmandu and Pokhara and to shop. Deet needs to be added to the list of things to take".
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