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WalkingWomen ------ ---Long Dist. Coast to Coast Long Distance Coast to Coast 29 Jul-13
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All arrived safe and well at St Bees, the westerly starting point of this journey across England. We dined well in the Platform 9 restaurant and retired for an early night, as we had a long day ahead of us. |
30th July
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St Bees to Ennerdale Youth Hostel (19miles)
![]() ![]() ![]() We detoured to the sea to dip our toes in the one ocean and pick up a pebble, as it is customary to take one from one side to the other. ![]() ![]() ![]() Then off we set up the coastal path along the St Bees headland. This is a RSPB reserve and we were treated to displays by lesser black-backed gulls, cormorants, guillemotes and herring gulls. ![]() Once past the lighthouse we turned away from the sea and started our journey eastwards to Robin Hoods Bay. ![]() The route to Cleator was through farm land and the way was clearly marked, which surprised us as this in not an official long distance path. We took a detour onto a disused railway which had various, interested art works dotted along it, then entered Cleator via Wainwrights Passage. ![]() From here it was a steady climb up to the top of Dent (334m). We stopped for second lunch while admiring the views over the nearing Lakeland fells. ![]() A steep drop off Dent took us to the Nannycatch Beck in its beautiful steep sided valley. From here it was a quick descent to Ennerdale Bridge, where Sylvia was waiting with the car (just in case). ![]() However everyone felt fit and well enough to complete the final five miles of the route. This involved a short section on the road followed by a tranquil ramble along the shores of Ennerdale water. ![]() We arrived at the youth hostel tired but contented with what we had all accomplished on our first day. ![]() A three course meal and a cup of tea were waiting for us and this completed a very satisfying day. |
31st July
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Ennerdale Youth Hostel to Borrowdale Youth Hostel (9 miles)
![]() Ennerdale had been very welcoming (only women staying at the hostel last night much to the warden's delight) and it was difficult to leave.
We took the forest track 4 miles up to Black Sail youth hostel, taking time to look at the flowers on the way. ![]() ![]() The valley was once covered in pine trees, however the forestry commission are returning it its natural state so there was purple heather all around and the odd grazing Herdwick sheep. ![]() The relief warden at Black Sail showed the women round who hadn't been there and provided us with tea and (filter!!!) coffee. ![]() After a long rest we retraced our steps slightly to take the path to Scarth Gap, the pass between Ennerdale and Buttermere. ![]() At the top of the pass we were awarded with fantastic views of the glorious, high fells encapsulating the valley. ![]() As the cloud was high and the sun was almost shinning we decided to take a slight detour off the main route (Wainwright himself recommended that walkers find their own way) to take in Haystacks (597m) and Innominate Tarn as a tribute to the man who developed the route. ![]() ![]() ![]() The route then took us via the old quarry workings down to Honister Hause. Here we stopped for another cup of tea, as this was really a rest day after the previous long day. ![]() From here we were back on the traditional route, following the old coach road down to Seatoller and into the Borrowdale valley itself. We had had a relatively dry day until this point, but typically it tipped it down for our last half a mile to the hostel beside the juvenile River Derwent. We arrived at the hostel early enough to make good use of the selection of real ales stocked in the bar and relax before dinner. |
1st August
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Borrowdale YHA to Grasmere Thorney How YHA (7 miles)
![]() The rain had made the leaves greener and swollen the becks and streams and Borrowdale was presented to us in all its lush glory. ![]() ![]() ![]() We took the footpath into Rosthwaite and picked up the Cumbria Way for a short distance beside Stonethwaite Beck under Eagle crag towards Greenup Edge. ![]() The clouds starting to roll in as we approached the coll and our brief respite from the rain ceased. On came the waterproofs once more as we braved the best Lakeland weather and continued up the hill. ![]() Like the previous two days we had the ancient, glacial valleys to ourselves. It was difficult to believe that it was the Lake District in the height of the school holidays! From the small plateau under Greenup Edge we could see all the north eastern and western fell tops. It was a magnificent view point, however our stay was only brief due to the increasing intensity of rain and wind.
We managed a quick bite to eat before setting off down Far Easdale towards Grasmere. In a complete reverse of the previous day we were 20 minutes from the youth hostel when the sun came out and rewarded us with magnificent views of the valley and the surrounding fell tops. ![]() This was one of the shortest days of the whole trip, allowing everyone the opportunity to stock up on treat food (bananas!!) and walking kit in Grasmere, before settling down to another three course meal and an evening of relaxation. |
2nd August
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Grasmere Thorney How YHA to Helvellyn YHA (7 miles)
![]() ![]() The weather forecast described further downpours and we decided to follow Wainwright's advice and take the direct route to Patterdale. ![]() The ascent to Grisedale Tarn was our first objective of the day. It was reached via the path up Tongue Gill. ![]() From this point it looked as if we were in for cloud all day and the wind speed had picked up quite significantly by the time we reached the Hause (580m). ![]() With the cloud rolling over the lower reaches of the Helvellyn massive and St Sunday crag it was a magical, mysterious place. We felt like the only people on the hills. Not bad for a August Saturday morning. ![]() The rain had created the most voluptuous waterfalls and turned the footpath to streams. ![]() It felt like October not August! Hats and gloves came out today. ![]() ![]() However the weather changed
dramatically in early afternoon as we reached the end of Grisedale and the sun
came out to help dry us off. We took a detour around the head of Birkouse Moor to visit Lanty's tarn before splitting into a shopping party (who headed off to Glenridding for more retail therapy) and a scrabble party (who headed to the youth hostel for tea and the drying room). ![]() ![]() ![]() Once more we were treated to a three course meal that left some of us feeling so replete that further exercise was needed before bed. ![]() For those who couldn't face it there was more competitive scrabble to be had. |
3rd August
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Helvellyn YHA to Shap (16 miles)
![]() Boredale Hause, above Patterdale was the first objective of the day and the climb provided us with a steady warm up as we ascended above the valley. ![]() It was another day of showers and we were all getting quite used to walking with wet feet. ![]() ![]() ![]() From here it is a steady climb up the High Street massive, which is the last bastion of Lakeland fells before descending into the Eden valley. ![]() We were all spurred on by Rachel's ginger fudge that she had bought at the famous Grasmere gingerbread shop. ![]() We summitted Kidsty Pike (780m) just after midday, so rested a while to eat our lunch. ![]() The only Golden Eagle in the Lake District resides in Riggindale below Kidsty Pike and some of the party were lucky enough to see it gliding majestically over its territory, as we descended towards Haweswater. ![]() It was at this point that we left the high ground behind and started towards the limestone plateau that Shap resides on. ![]() ![]() ![]() It was a long two hour walk beside the reservoir on a fairly undulating path. ![]() Then all of sudden we seemed to leave the high ground behind and we found ourselves in the rolling, green countryside of the Eden Valley. ![]() ![]() ![]() With a glance over our shoulders every so often to mark our progress from the diminishing fells, we headed east once more and to our destination for the night, a B&B near Shap. |
4th August
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Shap to Kirkby Stephen (20 miles)
![]() ![]() The landscape to begin with was rather industrial, as we crossed the M6 and circumnavigated a working quarry. ![]() We had just passed this when the 10am explosion occurred which was quite an awesome sound. This was unfamiliar territory for all of us and it took our breath away.
We were traversing green fields and patches of limestone pavement. We lunched (on cold pizza!) in Orton (after putting Sheila in the stocks). Several of the women visited its famous chocolate factory while others resisted the temptation. ![]() ![]() ![]() After lunch we crossed more moorland and limestone fields. The Howgills guarded our way to the right and the northern Pennines to the left. ![]() Ahead of us the higher peaks of the dales dominated the sky line. We were surrounded by big mountain country. ![]() All afternoon we were treated to a display of flying prowess by three RAF planes that appeared to be training, or maybe they were just looping the loop when they saw us. ![]() We came across a disused railway while crossing Scandal Beck. Here we decided to find an alternative way into Kirby Stephen, in true Wainwright style. ![]() We passed into Demense wood, an ancient oak woodland full of limestone flora and fauna, pungent with the aroma of wild garlic. It was a delight. ![]() The railway crosses over Scandal Beck at the Scandal viaduct, a grade 2 listed structure, and we marvelled at the feat of Victorian workmanship. ![]() After following the railway for 5km we picked up the original coast to coast route at Greenriggs farm and followed it to our hotel in Kirkby Stephen, ready for a hot shower and another good meal. |
5th August
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Kirkby Stephen to Keld (11 miles)
![]() The day dawned brightly and we embarked on our journey after applying plenty of suncream.
It was needed for about the first hour of the day then we were back to waterproofs and gloves! ![]() From Kirkby Stephen the route climbs up towards Nine Standards Rigg (662m). ![]() The route was reminiscent of treks across the Dark Peak or the Cheviots, for those of us who had walked in these areas. ![]() There were several of the party who were bog virgins and what a baptism of fire they received! ![]() This is the watershed of Britain, with the water behind us flowing towards the Irish Sea and the water ahead of us flowing towards the North Sea. ![]() ![]() There are nine cairns on the top of this mountain, the origin of which is unknown. ![]() Our descent from here took us into Yorkshire via the quietly beautiful Whitsun Dale. ![]() All this was made up for when we arrived at Ravenseat for our first tea stop of the trip. ![]() An enterprising (and heavily pregnant) farmer's wife provided us with plenty of hot tea and scones, straight from the oven. ![]() We savoured the delight while sheltering from the rain in the woodshed. From here it was only a short distance to the end of the dale and into Swaledale, were Keld is situated. ![]() The final stretch of our walk was along the River Swale, providing us with a taste of things to come for the next two days. We were in for a treat. ![]() |
6th August
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Keld to Reeth (12 miles)
It was like a boutique hotel in the middle of nowhere, it was a struggle to leave. ![]() Our route coincided with the Pennine Way for the first 100m of our journey as we climbed above East Gill Force. However we soon turned East once more for Reeth, en route to Robin Hoods Bay. ![]() Today and tomorrow were in lieu of rest days. We had an easy path to follow - the royal road to Reeth - which didn't really require much effort in the way of route finding. ![]() It was time to relax and enjoy the wonderful Yorkshire Dales scenery. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() We followed the River Swale, with it's Dippers, Merlin, Green Woodpeckers, Oystercatchers and Herons, all the way to Reeth. ![]() As we were in no particular hurry we stopped for tea in Gunnerside and the locally delicacy of Gunnerside Cheesecake was sampled. ![]() We wended our way towards Reeth, through an infinite number of squeeze stiles, arriving mid afternoon, in time for more tea! |
7th August
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Reeth to Richmond (10.5 miles)
As we had an even shorter day today we opted for a late breakfast and a quick look around the village. ![]() The sun was shining as we set off, maybe we were going to experience our second rain free day? ![]() ![]() ![]() Like yesterday's route, today we followed the Swale to Richmond as it wends its way eastwards. It was like a Sunday afternoon stroll. ![]() We passed Marrick Abbey (now an outdoor centre), followed ancient pathways that the Nuns would have taken, passed through tiny strip farming fields and battled with bullocks just outside Richmond. ![]() There were no tea shops to stop at on route, the only one sign posted was firmly closed when we got there, and we only stopped once, halfway, to eat our lunch. ![]() We were focused on getting to Richmond and refreshing ourselves. ![]() By this point in the trip we were walking well as a group and had a rhythm going. As a consequence we met Sylvia and our luggage just after two. ![]() We were made to feel very
welcome by Barbara at the Rosedale Guest house, she offered a laundry service
(hurrah!) and we could request anything we wanted for breakfast. We soon settled in and everyone had some time off. We ate out at a marvellous Italian restaurant and all felt distinctly human at the end of the day. |
8th August
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Richmond to Danby Wiske (13.5 miles)
We spent some time in the morning looking around Richmond, which Wainwright describes as 'too good to be passed'. More shopping took place as we all stocked up ready for the last five days. ![]() Today's route crosses the Vale of Mowbray, the flattest part of the journey. This lies between the Yorkshire Dales and the North Yorkshire Moors. ![]() We set off at a relaxed pace, taking time to look back at the magnificent view created by Richmond Castle. ![]() ![]()
Having developed a fondness for disused railways we varied our route slightly and took this out of Richmond before joining the suggested route by the sewage farm. ![]() We then continued through the fields (and under the A1) to emerge by Catterick Race course. We stopped here for a quick bite to eat and then continued eastwards. ![]() ![]() Our lunch stop was Bolton-on-Swale, the final resting place of Henry Jenkins reputed to have be born in 1500 and died in 1670. There is a marvellous memorial to him in the church yard and a plaque in the church. ![]() The Vale of Mowbray is arable land and the terrain was mainly fields and tracks. However there is a large section towards the end of today and the beginning of tomorrow (8 miles) that is on quiet country roads. ![]() We felt this part of the journey just had to be completed. Many guide books combine this day and the following day into one, but after five miles on the road at the end we were very glad to make it into Danby Wiske and rest our weary feet. Here we received fantastic Yorkshire hospitality and were made to feel very welcome. Danby Wiske gets a very poor write up from Wainwright, but the villagers have worked hard at making walkers feel welcome. They even serve teas on a Tuesday in the village hall, which would be the day you arrived if your started your journey on Sunday. However we didn't miss ours as our host ensured we were well fed and watered on arrival and our meal in the evening was another home cooked delight. With four easy days under our belts we were all starting to put on weight. |
9th August
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Danby Wiske to Osmotherly (10 miles)
![]() We crossed more muddy arable land with our heads down and our focus on finding some shelter from the driving rain and wind. ![]() So this is August in North Yorkshire, even the sheep were sheltering on the rain. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The café on the A19 was closed, as was the pub in Ingleby Cross, so we had to put up with sitting outside it in the rain. ![]() Things were looking brighter as we climbed up into Arncliffe wood and joined the Cleveland Way and arrived in Osmotherly at the early time of 2.30pm. ![]() However we could get into our rooms so we all took the opportunity for a warm shower, hot tea and more shopping. |
10th August
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Osmotherley to Chop Gate (11.5 miles)
![]() We started with a climb out of Osmotherley on the Cleveland Way towards Beacon Hill, the starting point of the Lyke Wake Walk. ![]() The Lyke Wake Walk is a gruelling 40 miles, designed, like the Cleveland Way, by local man Bill Cowley. However that would have to wait another day as we headed east once more for Robin Hood's Bay. ![]() We were treated to our first glimpse of the magical, purple heather moorland stretching out ahead of us. ![]() ![]() We soon clocked up the miles as we traversed the edge of the moorland, looking down onto Teeside and out towards the beautiful, perfect peak of Roseberry Topping and finally, the objective of our trip, the North Sea. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The weather returned to what we were getting used to, heavy rain, with the occasional bout of sleet. It was suggested that WalkingWomen should run this holiday in the summer!! ![]() ![]() ![]() As we were moving so well we stopped for refreshment at Lord's Stones café, where most of us could not resist the hot chocolate or superb cakes. ![]() It was after this that we parted company with the Cleveland Way. ![]() We headed down the valley to Chop Gate - our destination for the night and the end of our last 'relatively' easy day. |
11th August
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Chop Gate to Glaisdale (18 miles)
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Passing a large number of grouse buts, we picked up the Cleveland Way again at Round Hill (454m) the highest point on the Yorkshire Moors. ![]() ![]() From here it was easy walking along the old Urra Moor road to Bloworth Crossing, where the Cleveland Way and the Coast to Coast part company. ![]() From here we followed the path of the Rosedale Ironstone Railway. This is the fastest section of the route and we soon clocked up the miles. ![]() The North Yorkshire Moors are littered with ancient crosses, thought to be medieval, marking significant routes across the moors. We passed the Hand Stone, the Face Stone and a marker stone on an ancient burial ground just behind the Fox Inn (more recently used for Cock fighting). ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Later on we passed a stone named Margery Bradley and a large white stone called Fat Betty. ![]() As we left the road to head down the Cut Road towards Glaisdale we could finally see the North Sea, stretching across the horizon. ![]() ![]() We started to feel the emotional impact of walking across England, from one shore to the other. |
12th August
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Glaisdale to Robin Hood Bay (19 miles)
![]() We were getting very good at packing up and moving on, as a consequence we were on the road well before 9am. ![]() A small detour for the first part of our journey took us to the early 17th century Beggar's Bridge, before following the River Esk, along an ancient slabbed pathway in East Arnecliffe Wood to Egton Bridge. ![]() From here we took an old toll road to Grosmont, home of North York Moors steam railway. ![]() However we only had time to stop and take a quick picture before we steeled ourselves for the climb up the 1 in 3 hill back to the moorland. ![]() It was at this point that the heavens opened and it rained and rained and rained until 5pm. ![]() Sylvia was dispatched to the area's best bakery to buy cake, which we ate in the rain at the foot of the beautiful Falling Foss Falls. ![]() As the rain fell harder and harder we forsook the moorland for an easier, tarmac route, passing the quaint village of Hawsker (5 miles to go). ![]() Wainwright's route then actually turns North to end as it started, along the headland as it approaches Robin Hood's Bay. ![]() At this point we all started to get a bit emotional as we could see the end in sight. ![]() ![]() Robin Hood's Bay is a delightful smuggling port that drops right into the North Sea. ![]() We dropped the pebbles we had carried for 14 days and had half a pint in Wainwright's Bar. ![]() ![]() ![]() Walking women are now well and truly advertised in the finishers book! ![]() Then off to Boggle Hole Youth Hostel to celebrate. Well done everyone! Not bad for a bunch of girls! |
Women's Feedback
"The holiday was absolutely fantastic. I had doubts at the start concerning my ability to keep going for fourteen days, but I did it and have rarely experienced such a sense of achievement. I was just about in tears when Robin Hood's Bay came into view on the last afternoon. Diane was brilliant - extremely patient and totally unflappable on the few occasions when problems arose. Sylvia did a fantastic job getting our luggage from place to place (even having it in our rooms when we arrived in many cases), arranging bookings for meals and sorting out the situation at Danby Wiske when there were problems with our accommodation; couldn't have asked for more. The accommodation throughout was good, but some deserve special mention. Keld Lodge was an absolute gem - superb rooms, good food, great drying room (badly needed on the day), even a facility for cleaning boots. Of the B&B's, my vote for the best goes to West Cote Farm at Chop Gate. The room was lovely, breakfast and packed lunch excellent and Judy Preston went out of her way to make the three of us who stayed there feel at home. The best of the Youth Hostels was Borrowdale - the only one to have a laundry and a drying room that functioned properly! Boggle Hole, on the last night, was a lovely location but awkward for getting luggage in and out. This was my first long distance walk, previously four days was my maximum, and I will definitely be doing more, hopefully with WalkingWomen". Phyllis
"Very challenging - some days were too long but achieved. Enjoyable and good to be stretched. YHA Hostels were super - food excellent. Good B&Bs. Keld Lodge - wonderful. Very secure leadership. Good management of minor incidents". Sue
"I had wanted to walk the Coast to Coast for twenty years and couldn't believe my luck when I saw it in your brochure! Booking immediately! I spent the months up to the walk getting as fit as I could and you do need to be fit to undertake this walk. The rewards, however, are amazing. Walking over mountains with spectacular views in the Lake District to a carpet of purple heather across the North Yorkshire Moors. A real sense of achievement. Very happy with accommodation, it was compatible with the nature of the holiday - a long distance trek. We certainly needed good drying facilities. Very well looked after by guide. She held us together as a group very well. We were all pretty self-reliant, but Di was at hand when we needed that bit of support and planned the days and accommodation requirements to suite the strengths and weaknesses of the group. " Sheila
"Yes I enjoyed it, yes it met my expectations and no there were no problems. I planned to walk the Coast to Coast this year in May but due to other commitments I didn't go ahead. But the desire to do the walk was there and I had read both Wainwrights books so the expectation was high. I think I enjoyed every day and didn't even mind the rain. An adventure. All the accommodation was OK. Evening meals were good and varied. Diane was thoughtful, watchful and careful of us all without being patronising. Sylvia was invaluable. Our bags were always there, evening meal possibilities investigated and booked for a reasonable time, lunches for the next day sorted out and even the kettles boiled for tea. All very well organised. 18/19 miles was rather long for the first day. We had two short days of 10 and 13 miles through the Vale of Mowbray which was easy. Could it have been done in one day?" Rachel
"Great, fantastic leaders. Some days too short/easy/flat but that's Wainwright's fault not WW. Not all packed lunches contained enough fruit etc, so Sylvia's shopping trips were vital on some days when we did not pass a shop on foot." Sue
"A wonderful walk, superbly guided and supported by Diane and Sylvia. Liked the mix of accommodation. Diane and Sylvia were fantastic, worked wonderfully as a team and were great fun. Sylvia was an absolute star getting us provisions (bananas, newspapers). Diane was an excellent guide and good company to walk with. She kept the pace well so that by the last day, walking the last 19 miles was a breeze. I found the first week challenging - in a good way, the second week less so. After doing the West Highland Way this May and now the Coast to Coast, I think I am hooked on long distance walks. " Tessa
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