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------ ---Gentle Normandy 2




Gentle Normandy 2, 11-17 July
with Diana



11th July

Sailing out of Portsmouth.We had a relatively smooth crossing from Portsmouth to Cherbourg.

Sailing out of Portsmouth.






Looking out from the back of the ferry.




In Cherbourg, we were met by Justine and Mick who have taken over the running of the chateau where this holiday is based - Chateau Bellenau.

Chateau Bellenau.

This is a wonderful small chateau, full of character and charm without being imposing or smart. It has peacocks and fascinating gardens which some women started to explore before dinner.

Justine serving up a delicious dinner.



After a glass of Kir, we were soon sitting down to a delicous meal. However, no one stayed up late - we were all tired from the journey and were soon ready for bed.




12th July

Setting off from the chateau.Everyone slept well and we had a relaxed 9am breakfast (to allow for the time difference!).

Breakfast was cereals and croissants, following which we collected our packed lunches from Justine and set off for Ponts d'Ouve.

A field of wheat.

A lovely manor farm near the chateau.






Walking across the marais.


Our route took us across a short stretch of marais - wetlands that are flooded in winter and which form important summer grazing for cattle and horses.










Looking back across the marais.


At Pont D'Ovre there is a Marais information centre (currently being re-built), so instead we took a stroll to the nearby bird observatory.

View from the track to Carentan Canal.



After walking to the observatory (where we saw swans, moorhens, coots, mallards, and egrets) we stopped for tea and coffee in a nearby cafe.

Walking down to the Carentan Canal.

Mick collected us from here and with him driving the car, and me the minibus, we drove to Brevands church a few miles away to start our walk.

Lunch beside the Carentan Canal.



It was nearing lunch time, so we left the church for later and walked down the lane to the Carentan Canal.

Walking beside the canal.

This canal was built by Napoleon who hoped to link the east and west coasts of La Manche. However the canal was never completed.

The Carentan Canal.


We found a spot for lunch and when a dark cloud came over we were amazed to see rain falling on the canal but not on us. A miracle of sorts!

Sweetcorn growing on the marais.

Continuing along the canal we reached a small lane and followed this through the marais, passing several old buildings including some traditional maisons de terre'.

A little house for sale.




A maison de terre.



Walking back to Brevands church.




The alley of trees aproaching the church.




Our circuit brought us back to Brevands church which dates from the 11th/12th century.

Brevands church.

Mick came with his car to help ferry us back to the chateau. Some stopped for a little shopping in Carentan on the way.

Back at the chateau.




Back at the chateau we tucked into cake and cups of tea on the terrace.



That evening we enjoyed another delicious meal while next door, in the chateau gites, a group of British Marines arrived for a one night stay while studying the D-Day landings.






It was such a beautiful evening that after supper some of us took a stroll though the nearby marais and along the lanes back to the chateau. The evening light was golden.

Strolling through the marais in the evening.










Back at the chateau.



13th July

Raa the peacock and the mermaid statue.Today we headed across the peninsula to the west coast to visit Pirou Chateau, then walked along the nearby beach and sand dunes.

Pirou castle.







Inside the guard room.

The Chateau of Pirou is a beautiful small castle surounded by two moats. From the battlements you get a view over the surrounding area including westwards towards the sea and Jersey.

The bread oven.


Looking at the Pirou tapestry.





The Pirou tapestry.


The castle also boasts a tapestry which has been stitched in modern times by Therese Ozenne at the request of the former owner of Pirou castle, Abbot Marcel Lelegard.










Looking down on the castle roofs from the battlements.

The tapestry is an incredible achievement. Stitched in the style of the Bayeux Tapestry it covers the period of Norman history from the arrival of the Vikings (Normans) up to their conquest of Sicily.

Looking back up at women on the battlements.




After an hour strolling around the castle and its buildings - parts of which are still being restored - we drove a short distance to the sea. It was a beautiful day.

On the beach near Pirou.

We strolled along the beach for a short distance to a good lunch spot, and 3 women went for a swim.






The sea was warm - also lovely for paddling!

Pam heading for the sea.


Women heading in for a paddle.





Lunch and a siesta on the beach.



After lunch and a short siesta in the sun, we continued along the beach, then headed up into the dunes and pines.

Walking along the hard packed sand.

In the dunes.






Walking in the dunes.

View across the nearby estuary.






Evening primrose.


Beyond the pines lay fields among the dunes. Here manure is added to the very sandy soil to grow leeks, carrots, parsnips, parsley and other crops.

Parsley and parnsips growing in sandy fields.

After a circuit through these fields we returned to the beach where the tide was now coming in, and walked back beside the water to our starting point.

Walking back to the beach.


Walking back beside the incoming tide.





A short drive along the coast brought us to Pirou plage which boast several cafes, two patisseries, and a few postcard and souvenir shops.

At the cafe in Pirou plage.

Not being likely to pass up such an opportunity, we naturally stopped here for tea and cake while waiting for Mick to help drive us back to the chateau.











Driving back across the peninsula we encountered rain. We had definitely had the best of the weather on the west coast.

Sitting down to dinner.


That evening after another wonderful dinner from Justine, she showed us around the chateau gardens - starting with the waterways, grottos and follies, and finishing with the vegetable garden.

Looking back at the little chapel in the grounds.

Justine telling us about the garden.










Many of the delicious fresh organic vegetables we've been eating are grown here.

Lettuces.



An evergreen oak - one of the exotic trees in the garden.




Much later that night there were fireworks across the marais in Carentan to herald the start of Bastille Day.




14th July

Bastille Day and the weather was beautiful again. Today we drove to St Fromond - a village on the River Vire at the edge of the marais.

On the way we stopped in Carentan to visit the market and make a few purchases, rounded off with coffee at a cafe. The market was very busy.





From St Fromond our route took us first along the River Vire to the Vire & Taute canal - which we also followed for a short while.

The stork flying over our heads.


At one point we spotted a stork circling over head.

Walking beside the canal.


Walking up from the canal.








Then turning away from the water we headed gently uphill, following an undulating route along small lanes, then through woodland to La Haute des Landes.



From here we joined a sunken lane surrounded by much higher fields - clearly a very old path.

Fields of sweetcorn much higher than the path.



In the sunken lane.








This brought us to glimpses of the Abbey of St Fromond which we were steadily circling around.



We walked beside fields of sweetcorn and wheat, through small areas of woodland. or near cows grazing in pastures.

A break in the abbey churchyard.

Finally we turned along a lane to the Abbey which was completely rebuilt after the war in a romanesque style.




Unfortunately it was locked, so we took a break in a shady spot in the graveyard.

Walking back to St Fromond.


Back in St Fromond there was a boule competition in full swing for Bastille Day, seemingly involving the whole community.

A community boules competition in full swing.

We watched from the sidelines while waiting for our lift home.

Getting the tape measure out!









It was a glorious afternoon and evening with hardly a cloud in the sky.

Dinner.

We sat out in the sun with our tea, then again after dinner with something stronger. Several women tried calvados.





The usual way to wear a buff!




I was encouraged to demonstrate some of the different ways of wearing a green buff - immediatedly imitated by Sue and Sheila in purple.

Or a hat.


Imitated by Sue and Sheila!





Evening light on a neighbouring building.



When the sun left the terrace, we decided on a short stroll out onto the marais for the last of the evening sun before bed.




15th July

The horses at Ryes.Today's weather had been similarly forecast, but we woke to cloud and it had rained lightly in the night.






This was our big day - walking from Ryes to Arramanches to see the Mulberry harbour there and to visit the 360 degree cinema about the D-Day landings.

Walking out of Ryes.

In Ryes we fed bits of apple to some horses, then headed up the hill past the church onto a broad ridge of farmland where different cereals were being grown.

At Ryes church.






Walking up onto the low ridge.

Poppies bordering the wheat fields.







Emerging onto the ridge.



There were lots of poppies in the fields as we now walked towards the sea along the ridge.














We took a break near an old tower, speculating on what it had been built for since it had no openings towards the sea. A beacon tower perhaps?

Dog rose.


Then we descended briefly and gently ascended again onto a neighbouring ridge which took us to the sea cliff overlooking Arramanches.



In a great circle below us lay the remains of the Mulberry harbour - a terrific feat that had involved towing huge prefabricated sections across the channel to create what was for a while the largest man-made harbour in the world.



From this harbour ships were unloaded to re-supply the allied forces with food, ammunition, and vehicles.

Overlooking Arramanches beach.

We were moved by the film at the 360 degree cinema which blends original war correspondent footage with present day views of normal Normandy life - 'the price of liberty'.

Tea on arriving in Bayeux.

After lunch on the cliffs looking out to sea, we walked down into Arramanches and we found that the bus to Bayeux was due at any minute. Thankfully we were just in time.



After an entertaining bus ride we reached Bayeux, and made up for having missed coffee in Arramanches by stopping at the first cafe we saw.

One of the old timber frame buildings in Bayeux.

Suitably refreshed, we headed for the Bayeux Tapestry which was as fascinating as ever - even for those who had seen it before.

Bayeux Tapestry - from a postcard.





Scenes of farming practices from the borders of the tapestry (from postcards).

Bayeux cathedral.



The rest of the afternoon was spent variously, visiting the cathedral, wandering through the old town, taking a ride on the little train, or sitting in cafes and watching the world go by.

On the little train about the old town.










Diana sitting by the cathedral waiting to photograph the train goers!








We met up again for an early dinner at the restaurant that previous WW groups have enjoyed - and had a delicous meal at a very reasonable price.





Many of us had seafood of one sort or another.

Finally it was time to meet up with Mick and Justine who had driven in to pick us up. The end of a very enjoyable day.




16th July

For our last full walking day we headed to the beautiful woods near the St Sauveur. These are ancient woods full of huge beeches and oaks and many other trees.








Early on we walked through the Aboretum where many different native and exotic species are well signposted.

The lily pond.

We had the opportunity to learn both their English and French names.

From here we made a large circuit through the forest, stopping for elevenses next to a lily pond. No photos of frogs on lilypads, but we heard plenty of them!










The sun appeared as we left the pond and continued our walk.



Finally we emerged from the forest and walked down a lane to Le Mont de Besneville (Mount Besneville).






Even walking slowly, it only took us 10 minutes to climb - but this low hill gave us a great vantage point over the whole of the surrounding area.

Bell heather.

At the top of a small tower there was also an orientation table and we could pick out many of the more distant church spires. Jersey was also visible out to sea.








The orientation table.










After a relaxing lunch near the tower, we took a largely circular route down from the 'mountain' to enjoy walking through the heather and silver birches which clad its slopes.



















We then followed small lanes to Besneville nearby, and asked the woman in the grocery shop if her little cafe was open.






Cafe Roger.



Cafe Roger is unique: a room beside the shop which doubles as a grocery store, leaving 2-3 tables free for tea room customers (or locals wanting a beer in the evening).

Inside Cafe Roger.

We bought biscuits from the shop and enjoyed a beer or orangina while waiting for Mick to arrive. Some women also visited Besneville church.

Visiting Besneville church.



Raa










17th July

Utah beach.Last day. Our ferry was to leave in the late afternoon so there was time for a walk in the morning on Utah beach - the nearest of the D-Day landing beaches and a beautiful beach in its own right.




Unfortunately the tide was now high in the morning so we couldn't see the stranded landing craft or the oyster beds.




However we did see one of the sulkie horses training in a shallow lagoon.

Photographing the silkie horse.











There were also a few people line fishing further along the shore.

Breakfast on the beach.


Some of us had our breakfast on the beach with a big thermos of tea while others set off exploring.



We then all walked along the hard wet sand until the start of the Baie des Veys, and back again. A lovely relaxing walk.










A cafe in an old bunker.



We then had a leisurely coffee, tea, or hot chocolate at the Utah beach bar - built onto a bunker that was once a German command centre, then a radio command centre for the allied forces.



The interior of the cafe was wall-papered with old newspaper clippings and photos from WW2, memorabilia, cartoons etc.




The toilets likewise, which made interesting reading if you could get the light to stay on!













Sitting outside the cafe.
Tea at the cafe.









Back at the chateau we packed up and relaxed on the terrace, eating our packed lunches there.




Then it was time for a group photo in front of the chateau and a big thank you to Justine and Mick before we drove to Cherbourg - a trip of 40 minutes.



Mick and Justine.









Cherbourg marina.

A few months previously Brittany Ferries had changed their schedule, however the hire van still had to be back at the original time. So we now had a little time to spare in Cherbourg.

In the cafe on the waterfront.


Mick and Justine dropped most of the group in Cherbourg town for some last minute shopping and sitting in cafes on the waterfront, while I and a couple of other women watched the bags at the ferry terminal.



On the ferry I was touched to be given a bottle of Calvados. Thank you all so much. I'll enjoy it over a long period!

Our trip was smooth, and 2.5 hours later we docked at Portsmouth. There were hugs all round before we started our journeys home.

We'd had a lovely time together - and in the whole 6 days, we'd only experienced 30 minutes of drizzle!



Women's Feedback

"Yes - very enjoyable. The chateau is idyllic and Justine and Mick couldn't have been more hospitable. The evening meals were first-rate. The walks were varied and about the right length for this grade of holiday. The bed was comfortable and the storage space ample. Diana was friendly and caring, but also well organised and made good choices. I love WW holidays because I find the people they appeal to are so congenial. This was an ideal group, both friendly, supportive and composed of such interesting people" Joy

(Sorry, there are still more feedback forms to type!)


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