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WalkingWomen
------ ---Intermediate Crete 1




Intermediate Crete 1, 6-13 May
with Diana & Suzanna



6th May

The Heraklion airport dog.We all arrived at Heraklion Airport safely.

Suzanna with the other women from Gatwick arrived first and befriended 'the airport dog' while waiting for the rest of us from Manchester.

We now drove along the north coast of Crete to Rethimnon, then south across the island to Rothakino - stopping on the way to stock up with breakfast and packed lunch supplies from Armeni supermarket.

View from Oasis Rooms.

It was dark by the time we arrived at Maria & Christina's rooms - the view would have to wait for the morning.

We wandered down to Nikos and Anna's taverna which was just closing - but they very kindly agreed to feed us.

Not long after we were all settled down in our beds, falling asleep to the gentle sound of the waves below.




7th May

View to the east from balcony.We woke to hazy sunshine and a thin covering of cloud. Perfect for a first day.

Everyone made their own breakfasts with bread from the delivery van, and relaxed on their balconies with a cuppa.

View westwards.


I had suggested we go walking at 10.00 on the first day since there is 2 hours difference here.

Setting off along the coastal road.


We gathered in front of the rooms, then set off walking eastwards along the coast.

View eastwards.



Flowers everywhere.





Our goal was a little pebbly cove in sight of Plakias bay, and to get there we walked along a little coastal gravel track.

Looking back along the coast.The big purple thistle.

The flowers were simply stunning - so many daisies, poppies, bright thistles, thyme, oleander, mullein and many other smaller plants...

Poppies in an olive grove.




View eastwards.



We reached the dramatic point where rocks have fallen off the hill above us, called Kastro.

Passing beneath Kastro.




Plakias Bay.



And shortly beyond, Plakias Bay came into view with misty mountains and hills receeding into the distance.

Our little swimming cove.

We descended to a little swimming cove below us - almost deserted (well, you can't always have everything!)

Ohh its cold.


Here we rested for a good hour or so, swimming, sunning, having lunch and reading.




A spot of beach combing.





Or climbing a rock for the view!



When folk were starting to feel restlas, we retraced our steps along the coast path for a drink at Koraka beach.

Retracing our steps.

Walking back along the coast path.






View from one of the promontaries.


Mallow.








Looking out over the olive groves.
A drink at Koraka beach.







Looking back at our beach from the headland.

Back in front of our rooms, most still had the energy to come and explore the deserted beach beyond the headland.

Looking back east to the headland.






Going in for a 2nd dip.

It was sunny, so most of the group promptly went in for a second dip!





Wave watching....




View along the coast in the early evening.



Later we met up for supper at Nikos & Anna's taverna, 5 minutes walk from our rooms.

Delicious simple food at Nikos & Annas taverna.


Delicious simple food - a great way to end our first day!




8th May

Flocks of sheep feeding on young thorn shoots.A cloudy start to the day as we headed in our 2 minibuses westwards, passing through little villages full of bouganvillia and geraniums, and past flocks of sheep and goats...

Setting off down into the gorge.






We then drove up up up the hillside to the start of the Imbros Gorge.

A narrow section of Imbros gorge.

Up in the hills it was raining gently, but the sun still shone back on the coast as we walked down into the gorge.








A water-carved section.




Imbros is much smaller than Samaria - only 5 miles in length and more intimate generally. At one narrow, water-carved section you can touch both sides.




We wound our way down, passing many different flowers and herbs - somewhat earlier in season due to the snow that fell in February this year.



We marvelled where the gorge narrowed, and looked up at the trees and shrubs that cling to the valley walls.













Half way down we reached goats and the rescue donkey - not currently needed... then stopped for a first lunch with a choice of shade or sun.



Campanula.











Cretan Ebony.



More walking on the pebbly bed of the gorge brought us finally to the tavernas near the road.

Mallow.








While Suzanna and I took a taxi to retrieve the cars, the rest of the group waited at the taverna.



...beer or fresh orange juice, greek salad or Sfakia cheese pie (a pancake with filled with sheep's cheese and covered in honey....





Refreshed, we were now ready for our afternoon walk - 5 miles along the coast from Hora Sfakion to Lutro.

Goat below the coast path.

If anyone didn't fancy walking more, there was always the taxi boat to Loutro (the afternoon ferry wasn't running today).

Walking along the coast path.












The path contours the coast, at one point cut into the rock itself, then across an old rock fall to Sweet Water Bay.

Looking back at Sweet Water Bay as we climb on the other side.






Walking along the coast.

Here fresh water seems out from the cliffs under the stones of the beach, and people dig wells in the pebbles to collect it...

A stretch of beach.





Looking forward towards Lutro.


We didn't stop for a swim at any of the coves as we were a bit short on time. There would only be a 6pm ferry today.




Beyond the coves, our path climbed and contoured the hillside above the sea - turning turquoise when the sun came through the clouds...

Suzanna.













Lutro.



After a last stretch of 'up', we finally rounded the headland and Lutro lay before us, sparkling in the sunshine.

Lutro.

We had time for a drink - beer, orange juice, great cappucino, or mountain tea - before the ferry arrived to take us back to Hora Sfakion.

The ferry arrives from Agia Roumeli.





Hora Sfakion from the ferry.



Dinner in Hora Sfakion.




We ate in Hora Sfakion that evening for a change, with a wider choice of dishes. Still we only paid 13 Euros each including wine and tip!




9th May

View of the headland from the balcony.After our stretching walk yesterday - and with the Gorge of Samaria tomorrow - we took the day off today to enjoy the beach around the headland.

Saying hello to the neighbourhood cat.



The day dawned sunny with not a cloud - normal May weather - it had finally arrived!




We lazed on our balconies, eating yogurt and honey, fruit, bread and cheese or whatever else we had bought for breakfast.

Looking along the deserted beach.


Then half the group set off for the beach - while the rest of us slowly gathered ourselves together.

View inland from the deserted beach.


The beach around the headland is perfect for a lazy day.

View back along the beach.


Behind the beach there are low trees that offer shade, and much of the beach is sandy with flat rocks in between...

Sun and shade under the trees.

We had a lovely day. Some women returned to Nikos and Anna's taverna for lunch and a beer.




Others picniced under the trees, taking a dip if they needed to cool off. But there was always a gentle breeze from the west.

View from the headland.

View from Katerinas restaurant.






That evening we ate at Katerina's restaurant for a change.

Eating at Katerinas restaurant.

She has a simpler menu, but delicious food and, if anything, even cheaper than the other restaurants.





Then we all headed to bed relatively early - in preparation for our big day tomorrow.




10th May

Looking back along the coast from the coast road.We woke before dawn, and set off for the Samarian Gorge as the sky brightened slowly in the east.

Waiting at the bus stop in Sfakia.




First we drove to Hora Sfakion where we parked the cars.

Group photo at the top of the Samarian Gorge.Coffee again at the top of the gorge.

Here we caught the bus to Hania, had a coffee, then arranged 3 taxis up to the top of the Samarian Gorge at Omalos plateau.

View down into the gorge from the start.



Time for another coffee or tea, yoghurt and honey, and a chance to buy more goodies from the taverna for our day in the gorge.

Gingilos across the gorge.



It was cloudy as we set off down - but the views were still breathtaking, with Gingilos magnificent across the gorge from us, forming its western boundary.





We followed the zig zag stone-laid path steadily down down down through the pines towards the stream bed, stopping at one of the frequent waterpoints to refill our water bottles.


Water from the Samaria spring.Looking down into the trees below.

Here the gorge is dry for a while, until suddenly the river emerges for a while. Wherever there is water, huge plane trees grow. There were also many flowers to see.

Walking down into the gorge.



Dragon Arum.




We paused at Agios Nicolaos - an ancient church - surrounded by a veritable forest of Dragon Arum (lillies indigenous to Crete).

Agios Nicolaos.

A little further on we stopped for lunch at a lovely pool - a chance to dip our feet after all that 'down'!

Lunch by a river pool.


We continued on. At one point we passed patches of wild clyclamen growning as a carpet under the trees.

Cyclamen.




Crossing the river on stepping stones.




Our path climbed to the western side of the valley for a while and gave us a view up a huge tributary valley descending from Melindao - one of the White Mountains...

Jay in the trees at Old Samaria village.


By 3pm we reached Old Samaria village - the approximate half way point.

Lunch at Old Samaria village.



The old village has been turned into a medical centre and rest stop and we had another break here.

Spider or bee orchids.

As we left, it started to rain lightly, so we pushed on in case it got heavier. We saw spider orchids in several places...

The gorge narrows....





Soon the gorge narrowed dramatically and we entered a different world. The gorge walls were now almost vertical, and in places the strata was bent every which way...

Plane trees where the river emerges again.

We crossed and re-crossed the dry stream bed, walking on the rounded stones.

Crossing the river on ladder bridges.






Crossing the river on ladder bridges.


Further down the water came back and there were more beautiful plane trees... Now where we had to cross the stream, it was on ladder bridges...

The strata of the gorge walls.

Walking down to Cristos.






Finally we reached Cristos - another small church and rest stop - and had our final break and snack.

Walking through the Gates of Samaria.The Gates of Samaria.


A little further on we reached the Gates of Samaria - the narrowest point of the gorge where the river fills the gorge.

We walked through over a lengthwise wooden bridge...

Looking back at the gorge.

Another mile further on we emerged through the oleander bushes at the edge of the National Park.

Another mile further on we finally reached the sea and the little settlement of Agia Roumeli.

A well-deserved drink at Restaurant Tarra.

It was a tired but satisfied group who trouped into Restaurant Tarra for a well-deserved beer of fresh orange juice.

We were welcomed by Andreas who runs the restaurant and nearby Hotel Calypso.

Rain at Agia Roumeli.


We settled into our rooms, then had a very delicious meal back at Restaurant Tarra.

As we sat there the skies opened and the rain continued to fall steadily all night long.




11th May

Cloudy morning at Agia Roumeli.As the morning was likely to be cloudy, we'd decided on a later start than normal for this day - with breakfast at 08.00 (normally we start earlier to be ahead of the sun).

Breakfast at Restaurant Tarra.




Milking sheep in Agia Roumeli.




Today we would walk along the coast from Agia Roumelli to Marmara cove just before Lutro.

Goat on our path.

The walk starts along the beach on sand and pebbles, at times climbing the hillside to pass above big rocks blocking the beach.

Looking back along the beach.








Walking on the beach.








Walking to Agios Pavlos.





After about 1.5 miles we reachd Agios Pavlos - an ancient Byzantine church built by St Paul's followers.

2nd breakfast at Agios Pavlos.

Here there is also a little taverna, so we stopped a cup of coffee and a 2nd breakfast.

Agios Pavlos.


We took a look inside this beautiful ancient church...

Icons inside Agios Pavlos.


Leaving Agios Pavlos.





Looking down at the sea through the pines...


Now we climbed up into the pine trees and walked on pine needles looking down at the tourquoise sea below - always a lovely stretch.

Starting along the headland.View back down the beach.

At the end of the pines we climbed around the headland and now walked higher above the sea as the path got rockier.

Walking to Lutro.




We passed between small trees, thorn bushes and many flowering shrubs and herbs.

Goat peering out from behind a tree!



This headland goes on for a while. At one point we had a break beneath a huge ancient olive tree which must have sheltered so many travellers in its time...

Walking around the headland to Marmara.

Then there was no shade. By now the clouds had all disappeared, however there was a good breeze.




We could see griffon vultures circling on thermals above the high cliffs inland from us.




We walked steadily on until finally we topped a rise and Finix bay lay before us - the bay before Lutro.

Coming in sight of Marmara & the Lutro peninsula.


Shortly our path started down to Marmara cove, zigzagging steeply over the hard limestone here - marble in fact. Marmara cove lies at the bottom of the Aradena Gorge.

Lunch at Marmara Taverna.

Here there is another small taverna that was our destination for a late lunch.

Marmara Cove.



No one swam in the cove - it was too rough after the storm even though the sun was warm.



On the taxi boat to Lutro.






A little later, I arranged a taxi boat from Marmara to Lutro - a very exhilarating ride.

On the taxi boat.

4 women decide to walk there instead, taking the new easy path to Lutro.

Rounding the headland into Lutro Bay.






Tea and cake in the sun at Lutro.


We all met up in Lutro to sit in the sun and enjoy another coffee, tea or beer, writing postcards, or doing a little shopping until the ferry arrived at 6pm.




Suzanna and the taverna dog.




We regained our minibuses in Hora Sfakion.

It seemed like ages since we had left them here. We drove back to Rothakino to have a chance of a shower 'back home' before supper at Nikos & Anna's taverna.




12th May

Ancient monastery olive trees.Last walking day - and we headed east to just beyond Plakias. Today we would walk to the coast above the Preveli Gorge near the Preveli Monastery.

Walking towards Palm beach.



It was a beautiful day - sunny but with a good breeze from the north.

Bright yellow thistles.

Our goal was Palm Beach where palms from North Africa have grown up beside Crete's only other permenant river (besides Samaria).

A lovely view back to the mountains.

We walked between olive groves, then struck out above the gorge. At one point we could see the palm trees below lining the river below.

Looking back to the mountains.






Looking down at the river below.








A break with a view along the coast eastwards.

Topping a rise, we came into sight of the coast stretching east towards Agia Galini and beyond.

Coming carefully down the hillside.



Out to sea we could see the islands near Agia Galini clearly.

Looking down on Palm Beach.


Down down down, we took a little winding path, and emerged onto a track which led to Palm Beach.

Descending to Palm Beach.

The sea was still too rough for the pleasure boats from Plakias and Agia Galini, so the beach was fairly deserted.





Today, for sure, there would be too much water in the river for us to return up the gorge, so instead we hired sun beds and relaxed in the sun for 2-3 hours.



Some of us swam, others hired a pedalo and had great fun getting up the river against the wind, Barbara bird watched in the gorge, the rest of us dozed or read...

Swimming of Palm Beach.


Backwards against the wind!
















Barbara emerging from the palm trees as they passed!

Climbing up  above the beach.







Later we climbed the steps towards the monastery, and found a new path returning above the other side of the gorge.

Walking along the top of the gorge.

From our outward path, we had spotted that new safety railings had been built on the other side of the gorge at what must be viewpoints, and so thought it worth investigating!

Looking down on the river and Palm Beach.

Looking down into Preveli gorge.





Sheep and goats along our path.




The views were stunning - it proved a great find. We also saw blue rock thrushes flying in the gorge. (You can see all of Barbara's list of birds spotted on the holiday at the bottom of this page...!)





We came to a larger track that I recognised, and so regained our vehicles in good time.

Walking with the mountains in view.








We now drove into Plakias and spent an enjoyable 1.5 hours shopping for presents and souvenirs, and relaxing with tea and cake and a view of Plakias harbour.

Plakias harbour.
Maria with baby Maria!








Back at our rooms, Christina and Maria had invited us to dinner at Katerina's taverna - en famille.

Dinner at Katerinas taverna.

Even Christina's 6 month old baby daughter joined us.

Barbara thanking Suzanna.




It was a lovely meal and a very kind of them to invite us.




13th May

Group photo before going out to eat.This morning we had time for a lazy start before heading for the airport.

Last view along the coast.






Women building sand castles on the beach.

Three of the group built sandcastles on the beach before we all a late breakfast together at Nikos & Anna's taverna.

A last late breakfast together.



Then sadly it was time to say goodbye to Christina and head back across the island to the airport. Suzanna would stay on with Marian to run the 2nd WW Crete week.

Breakfast beside the water.



We arrived in good time and were able to check in with minimal queuing.

Last hug before the Gatwick flight left.



We then sat around chatting outside in the shade till it was time to go through - with a last goodbye hug in a circle!



Women's Feedback

"It was fantastic. Great accommodation, great walks, great guide. I totally loved it... The Oasis rooms wer perfect - beautiful!!!" Jane

"It was great - I feel 10 years younger than when I arrived. I enjoyed the walking which was just at the right level for me, and swimming on beautiful beaches.. I would have liked to stay longer. The room with the sea views was lovely. It was bright, well furnished, and kept clean which was my ideal combination. We were all well looked after by a most knowledgeable guide who made sure we got the best out of being in Crete. I enjoyed the company of my travelling companions too - Barbara's knowledge of flowers and birds was an added bonus" Margaret

"Wonderful - better than I expected. Will definitely do again. Cannot fault anything" Valli

"I thoroughly enjoyed every minute - far more than my expectations. Good group of women whose company I enjoyed very much. Wonderful location. Very restful. Good variety of walks and we couldn't have been looked after any better". Jan

"A wonderful holiday with no problems whatsoever. This was my first trip to Crete. It is a magnificent destination and I can't believe anyone could visit and not fall completely in love with the island - I did. WalkingWomen always delivers the highest standard and even this high standard is exceeded. I have never had a seconds disappointment on any WW holiday. This was relaxing, homely, in a perfect location, and can't be faulted. I felt looked after in every way possible, and well catered for at all times. Fabulous choice of walks". Barbara

"I had looked forward to this for 3 years. I was not disappointed. The variety of walks were a joy. The balance of long and short days worked really well. It's a shame it rained on the Samaria Gorge walk - c'est la vie! I loved the pedalo experience - never laughed to much... The accommodation was far better than experienced before. The change of linen midweek was such a lovely surprise. Wonderful views. Sound of the sea to lull to sleep.... Felt fantastically well looked after - I have every confidence in Diana, and she ensured that we all were confident in every aspect of the walks" Yvonne

"Wonderful. Samarian gorge was the peak of the week. I still have working knees! The accommodation has a very beautiful situation. Kitchen well stocked (though I suggest adding tea towel to the What to Bring list)..." Judith

"I enjoyed the holiday very much and it exceeded my expectations with regard to the standard of accommodation and the truly fabulous location. Diana Materna! I didn't feel I had to concern myself with anything. Suzanna lovely. I didn't walk (due to an injury that I brought with me) but I felt throughly welcomed and part of the group" Sue


Barbara'a Bird List

Here are all the birds that were spotted on the walks (not especially sought out) - by Barbara who is an knowledgeable bird watcher...

Squacco Heron, Little Bittern, Little Egret, Grey Heron, Griffon Vultures, Buzzard, Kestrel, Yellow Legged Gull, Rock Dove, Collared Dove, Cuckoo, Swift, Pallid Swift, Alpine Swift, Rose-Ringed Parakeet, Wryneck, Crag Martin, Swallows, House Martins, Green Finches, Corn Bunting, White Wagtail, Wren, Black Redstart, Wheatear, Black Eared Wheatear, Blue Rock Thrush, Blackbird, Blackcap, Sardinian Warbler, Reed Warbler, Cettis Warbler, Firecrest, Spotted Flycatcher, Blue Tit, Great Tit, Short Toed Treecreeper, Jay, Raven, Goldfinch, Chaffinch, Golden Oriole, and plenty of House Sparrows!


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