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WalkingWomen ------ ---Turkish Coast Turkish Coast - Walking & Sailing 8-15
April |
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![]() Anne who co-owns the boat with her partner Adil, was waiting for us as we came through into Arrivals. We all boarded the minibus for the 1.5 hrs to Marmaris. East Meets West proved to be a delight. A traditionally-built wooden sailing boat beautifully and comfortably fitted out with single or twin cabins. We wandered to the bow to look across Marmaris harbour at all the other gulets moored along the front. We were welcomed by Adil, Salih, Turabi - our captain, cook, and crew who had prepared us a light meal and hot drinks. It wasn't long till we were all in our beds. |
9th April
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![]() ![]() ![]() Little restaurants were opening up, deliveries were taking place, other boats were getting ready for the season, and on board East Meets West there was a breakfast feast of fruit, tomatoes, cheese, bread and different jams on the table... After breakfast we got ourselves ready for our first walk - a relatively short warm-up walk up into the mountains behind Marmaris. We wandered through the town to the bus stop, taking in the sights. The local bus came and dropped us off in the hills behind the town, and we walked steadily up the road, surrounded by a mass of wild flowers, and stopping to look back towards the sea. ![]()
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Slowly we gained height, passing a village mosque, goats grazing, women chatting in the shade.... ![]() Topping the rise we reached a stunning place for a stop, with views of Bodram Bay to the north. Our track now lead us down to a minor road, where after a short distance we were met by Adil and the minibus driver to take us back to the boat in Marmaris. ![]() ![]() Time for lunch - sitting out again under the awning before we set off for our first destination, cruising for about 2 hours down the coast. ![]() Although the boat has sails, generally we would cruise on the engine between mooring places due to the distances involved - and to leave time for walking. We sat in the bow on a long comfy seat, or relaxed in the stern on cushions with a book. ![]() Our journey took us out of Marmaris bay, past an island and wooded inlets till finally we could turn south along the coast.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Late afternoon, we anchored in a small bay and about half the group took to the water. ![]() ![]() ![]() Cold, but not too cold to stay in for a refreshing swim. Wendy headed off in her wetsuit for some more prolonged snorkling...
Dinner that night was delicious barbequed fish (or a vegetarian alternative) and lots of salad, potato and other vegetables. |
10th April
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![]() Today we would walk to the Lycean and Byzantine ruins at Caunos overlooking the Dalyan river delta, then be picked up by river boat and taken up-river to some thermal mud baths. It was a stunning path that we took, walking around Ekincik bay. ![]() We then walked up over the next promontory through trees and dappled light, stopping to look back over the water towards the boat.
From the top we could see the start of Dalyan Bay, and at times we could see the 5 kilometer sandy turtle beach between the delta and the sea.
![]() ![]() Our path undulated around the coast, through pine trees which gave us lovely shade, and occasionally through olive groves.
At one point we spotted a tortoise struggling over some rocks. ![]() It was a good walk of about 6-7 miles to the Caunos, and we arrived in time to eat our picnic lunch overlooking the ruins - which are impressive. They range from a sizeable amphitheatre and 'temple terrace' where greek columns remain, to a church built in Byzantine times.
![]() Caunos has remains that date back to the 10th century BC, and is first mentioned in histories of the Persian wars in 546BC. Later it was part of the Eastern Roman Empire which survived the rest of the Roman Empire by many years. ![]() Finally the settlement succumbed to malaria from delta mosquitos in the 15th century. Malaria was only eradicated after the last war, allowing the modern settlement at Dalyan to develop. The Dalyan delta is now a nature reserve. We wandered among the ruins, climbing to the top of the amphitheatre for the view. This amphitheatre used to seat 5000... Now flowers and olive trees grow among the stones. Our river boat captain came to find us and we boarded his boat to be driven up the Dalyan river between the reed beds.
Over the afternoon we spotted two malachite kingfishers, storks, herons, crested greebs, another diver, and many swallows flitting above the water catching gnats.
We motored past Dalyan town with its colourful waterfront cafes and bars, and looking up at the cliff we could see amazing Lycean rock tombs which Dalyan is famous for - the oldest visible ruins of the Caunus settlement.
![]() Continuing on we reached the mud baths costing 4 lira each (about £1.60). The crystal clear thermal bath was a delight - a really hot soak. The mud bath was an experience - we plastered it all over ourselves! ![]() We didn't have time to let it dry off - and probably the sun wasn't hot enough for that, but our skin felt very smooth later (after a cold shower to clean it off and a further dip in the hot pool!). There was just time for a short stop on Turtle beach where Loggerhead and Leatherback turtles will shortly come to breed - returning after 25 years to the beach where then hatched. None were in evidence - possibly it was now too late in the day - though Wendy donned her wetsuit and flippers to go have a quick search for them. Our river boat now took us back to the gulet at Ekincik where there was time to relax with a drink before dinner (of chicken or aubergine gratin, bulgar, delicous salads, followed by a little cakes in honey). Despite the beautiful full moon over the water, we headed to bed relatively early - tired from the fullness of our day! |
11th April
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![]() Annie, one of the group, took the wheel very professionally - and steered us most of the way. (Henceforth known as Captain Annie!) ![]() For a while we raised the jib - until the breeze off the land died under the next high cliffs. ![]() ![]() We had breakfast on the way, then everyone lounged on deck watching the coast go by till we reached our destination - a tiny bay just around the headland into Fethiye Bay. ![]() ![]() ![]() Turabi ferried us to the beach in the dinghy from where we set off along a delightful coast path climbing above the water. ![]() ![]() ![]() Around the headland we turned inland and climbed an old Roman mule track to the ruins of a Byzantine church and settlement at Lydae. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Beyond lay a fertile bowl in the hills and a small collection of shepherd huts where we visited with a shepherd, his wife, and small daughter. ![]() We were treated to sage tea in tiny glasses, and several of us bought honey, spoons made of olive wood, or a set of goat bells. ![]() Continuing on we now followed a tiny path above a gorge through woodland, emerging into a stunning view from the top of the gorge towards a small cove that faces Dalaman Bay. ![]() ![]() ![]() Up over the saddle from here we descended into Fethiye Bay with all its islands. ![]() After descending through beautiful pine woodland we reached Cleopatra's Bath where the boat was waiting for us, moored beyond the ruins. ![]() There was time for a swim before lunch, exploring these ancient and semi-submerged ruins with masks and snorkels (the boat keeps a supply of them to lend). ![]() After a short siesta, Anne offered us another walk around the next headland on another beautiful coast path. We walked through flowers above the turquoise water. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The boat upped anchor behind us and passed close below where we were walking. We waved to the crew and the two women who had stayed on board. ![]() ![]() ![]() We passed through very varied woodland where more than just pine trees grew. At one point in a clearing there was a carpet of daisies. ![]() ![]() ![]() We reached the boat again at another small bay and cruised a short distance to our goal - a beautiful cove with small restaurant/bar. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The bar owner lit a bonfire as it got dark - and we headed over for a drink, enjoying the banter as we sat around the fire. ![]() Later Adil donned his wetsuit and headed off with harpoon and torch to catch calamari. (He caught 2 calamari that night). |
12th April
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![]() We could see ancient Lycean rock tombs cut into the hillside above. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() After a lazy start we were ferried a short distance along the shore to the start of today's path. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() This was a shorter walk than usual which would take us above the water, looking down through the trees and flowering shrubs to the sea. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() At one point we joined a more open forest track, and as we gained height we were treated to stunning views of the many small islands in Fethiye bay. ![]() ![]() ![]() Descending into another cove we regained the boat - which had again motored around to meet us. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() After lunch there was now time for a relaxing afternoon, sunbathing, reading, snoozing, chatting, drinking tea... ![]() ![]() ![]() Later we upped anchor and cruised closer to Fethiye, mooring at Gocek which is a rather smart yachting resort. ![]() The boat needed to take on supplies, while the rest of us wandered, shopped, or sat in the sun drinking more tea or coffee! ![]() Re-stocked with fresh provisions, we cruised closer to Fethiye and moored in the lee of Red island. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() There was time for a swim, following which Turabi joked with Jane and Wendy, raising the ladder before they were out of the water. They retaliated by boarding his dinghy - which proved harder than it looked!
We were all helpless with laughter by the time Wendy finally managed to board the gulet!
Dinner was delicious (chicken, meat balls, or fish that Adil had caught off the side of the boat), followed by strawberries... Adil caught plenty more calamari that night.
![]() The pirate theme resumed later when Turabi dressed up to take his revenge! |
13th April
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![]() ![]() ![]() Today was a 'free-day' but practically everyone wanted to do an excursion to the Saklikant Gorge from Fethiye. ![]() We had asked for an early start so that there would be time for more swimming after the excursion. ![]() We were picked up by our driver in a jeep, and headed off through Fethiye and past polytunnels and greenhouses towards the mountains. It was fascinating to see more of the interior - the more humble houses of rural families with goats grazing and free-range chickens. ![]() The snow covered Taurus mountains were very impressive. On the way to the gorge we stopped at Tlos ruins which date from the Lycean period through to Byzantine times.
Some of us climbed to the tombs to look inside, then higher to the top of the ruins with the most stunning view out over the plain below or across to the mountains. ![]() ![]() ![]() It was easy to see why this had been such an important settlement. Continuing on we reached the Saklikant gorge, and were dismayed to see the volume of snow melt flowing down the river. This gorge has a boardwalk above the water to start with, but at the end of this walkway we realised that we wouldn't be able to go higher. ![]() ![]() The river was in full flood - with a mass of snowmelt coming down the gorge, supplemented by clear water flowing out of the gorge sides at several points. It was an amazing sight. Even in high summer the water can be up to your thighs as you cross the first section. Today it was simply unthinkable.
We watched the scene, then returned to where we would have lunch - a delicious meal beside crystal clear flowing water, seated in traditional fashion on floor cushions. There was even a hammock. ![]() ![]() After lunch we drove to the sea at Olu Deniz where 3 women swam, while the rest of us drank Turkish tea. ![]() ![]() ![]() On the way back we stopped at a ghost village - Yaka Park - once inhabited by a Greek community which had been expelled back in the 20's. At this point Turkey expelled all Greek communities, and the Greeks did the same to their Turkish communities. ![]() ![]() ![]() When Fethiye later had a massive earthquake, windows, doors, and roofing materials were further removed from the houses to help rebuild Fethiye - leaving an even sadder sight. ![]() On our return, most of the group took a Turkish bath in Fethiye, and had a scrub and massage. ![]() This evening after supper - rather than stay in Fethiye - we motored in the dark to an island bay nearer to our walk for the next day.
The clouds had gone, the wind was warm, and the sky was full of stars. It was magic to sit out on deck as we cruised through the dark to our destination. Adil expertly found and moored us in a small cove. We were impressed! |
14th April
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() This walk was to take us along gravel tracks up from the beach and into the hills overlooking the whole of Fethiye Bay and its islands. ![]() From various points we could see different places we had walked, and stunning views over the whole area.
We climbed steadily and started along the ridge, following tracks and firebreaks. ![]() We were surrounded by lavender, broom, rock roses and a host of other flowers. At one point Nicky spotted a Praying Mantis as it crossed our path. ![]() ![]()
After lunch in the shade, we continued on - only to find that a new firebreak had completely overun Anne's path with slippery loosely packed soil and stones. ![]() The firebreak had also obscured the original turn off point. ![]() In the end we partially retraced our steps and descended to the valley beside a lovely river with tempting pools and wonderful plane trees.
![]() On reaching the valley we walked past several small farms. ![]() We saw many goats, including one that had just been born. ![]() ![]() ![]() Adil came with a minibus to pick us up and to save us a walk back beside a main road. Two women had opted not to walk today. They had stayed on the boat and saw a pair of dolphins! ![]() Needless to say we were watching out for those dolphins as we motored the short way to Yassica Island after our walk - but with no luck. Yassica Island, however, proved to be a real treat. It is actually a set of islands forming two arms that enclose protected water like a lagoon. ![]() We moored next to 3 fishing boats - a small fishing community - and immediately set about collecting timber for a beach fire. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The fire was lit and after dinner we sat around, watching the flames, joking, and talking over the holiday. At one point Adil and Wendy fenced with fire sticks above the fire. It was a wonderful last evening to round off the holiday. |
15th April
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![]() There had been rain in the night and the mountains looked suitably atmospheric. There was almost no wind. ![]() ![]() ![]() We spent the morning in another sheltered bay, and in the absence of dolphins we were treated to sychronised swimming by 4 of the group. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Later we upped anchor and motored across to Gocek port for an early lunch. (Gocek would give us the shortest possibly transfer to Dalaman later). ![]() In the afternoon, several women shared a taxi to Fethiye for another, longer massage. They later returned smelling of rose oil and positively glowing! ![]() Other women had planned a lazy afternoon - shopping, exploring Gocek, or lazing on the boat chatting, reading, or snoozing. ![]() ![]() ![]() In the late afternoon the heavens opened and we had a sudden sharp squall. But the sun came out again, producing a rainbow when it was time to leave. ![]() It was hard to say goodbye to our hosts Anne and Adil, and their crew Salih and Turabi. ![]() They had looked after us so well. It had been a week to remember - full of laughter, sunshine, delicous food, and wonderful walks. WalkingWomen will be back! |
Women's Feedback
"I just wanted to send a personal thankyou to you for arranging a wonderful holiday and making it such a warm and joyful experience. I had a lot of fun. It was a great pleasure to meet you and I hope we can walk together again before too long." Annie
"Thankyou for a fabulous holiday, really excellent!" Jane
This holiday exceeded my expectations. I enjoyed the boat experience - memories of Swallows and Amazons. The cabin was comfortable, the food delicious and fresh the crew were good company. Diana as always was the model of care and professionalism. She made sure that everything ran as smoothly as possible with all questions answered and requests met. I thought the walks gave a variety of views and environments and the flowers and historical sites were a revelation. All in all, it was a sensory experience that will provide memories for years to come. A Turkish delight. I hope to have a second visit next year'. Hilary
'A wonderful mix of walking and cruising. On one level I would have liked longer walks but the best surprise was that we did more travelling on the boat than I had anticipated. Our host Anne did a great job of preparing a variety of walks of differing lengths, terrain and views. The catering and hospitality of the crew was superb and the facilities on deck were great. Diana was very attentive and always ready to adjust the itinerary to make sure everyone got what they wanted. As with my previous experience in Slovenia, the group of women was great - interesting and funny people who all got along very well indeed'. Karen
'It was terrific. My particular hopes were a) to have a good break from work and b) to explore the Eastern Roman Empire. The holiday fulfilled these hopes and added more besides; good company, beautiful landscapes and a better sense of Turkey across the ages. The accommodation was excellent and the crew were tremendous, which I guess is vital. It was good to have Diana's company and Anne was really special, a true asset for the future'. Jenny
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