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WalkingWomen
------ ---Turkish Coast




Turkish Coast - Walking & Sailing 8-15 April
with Diana & Anne



8th April

East Meets West.This holiday was based on a traditional Turkish gulet called East Meets West, exploring the coast from Marmaris to Fethiye - a new holiday for WalkingWomen this year.

Looking from the gulet along the other boats.



Anne who co-owns the boat with her partner Adil, was waiting for us as we came through into Arrivals. We all boarded the minibus for the 1.5 hrs to Marmaris.

East Meets West proved to be a delight. A traditionally-built wooden sailing boat beautifully and comfortably fitted out with single or twin cabins. We wandered to the bow to look across Marmaris harbour at all the other gulets moored along the front.

Late dinner that first night.

We were welcomed by Adil, Salih, Turabi - our captain, cook, and crew who had prepared us a light meal and hot drinks. It wasn't long till we were all in our beds.




9th April

Marmaris Bay.We woke to sunshine and clouds, beautiful views across the bay to the mountains all around, and plenty of activity on the guay.

Looking out of the port entrance.




Annie taking in the view.



Breakfast aboard.




Little restaurants were opening up, deliveries were taking place, other boats were getting ready for the season, and on board East Meets West there was a breakfast feast of fruit, tomatoes, cheese, bread and different jams on the table...

Getting ready to go walking.

After breakfast we got ourselves ready for our first walk - a relatively short warm-up walk up into the mountains behind Marmaris.

Market seller and cat...



We wandered through the town to the bus stop, taking in the sights.






The local bus came and dropped us off in the hills behind the town, and we walked steadily up the road, surrounded by a mass of wild flowers, and stopping to look back towards the sea.

Setting off walking into the mountains. Everywhere was very green.








A village mosque.


View back to the bay.








Slowly gaining height.


Slowly we gained height, passing a village mosque, goats grazing, women chatting in the shade....

View of Bodram Bay.

Topping the rise we reached a stunning place for a stop, with views of Bodram Bay to the north.




Our track now lead us down to a minor road, where after a short distance we were met by Adil and the minibus driver to take us back to the boat in Marmaris.



Back in Marmaris.






Lunch on the boat.


Time for lunch - sitting out again under the awning before we set off for our first destination, cruising for about 2 hours down the coast.

Sitting on deck before we set off.

Although the boat has sails, generally we would cruise on the engine between mooring places due to the distances involved - and to leave time for walking.

Watching the views go by.

We sat in the bow on a long comfy seat, or relaxed in the stern on cushions with a book.

Marmaris Bay.


Our journey took us out of Marmaris bay, past an island and wooded inlets till finally we could turn south along the coast.

Adill at the wheel...


Reading on the stern cushions.





A little sun bathing...


Looking for dolphins.








Late afternoon, we anchored in a small bay and about half the group took to the water.

Anne & Tourabbi as the boat reverses towards the shore.


Jane - first to go in.





Wendy who brought a wetsuit for prolonged snorkling.


Cold, but not too cold to stay in for a refreshing swim. Wendy headed off in her wetsuit for some more prolonged snorkling...

Dinner that night.



Dinner that night was delicious barbequed fish (or a vegetarian alternative) and lots of salad, potato and other vegetables.




10th April

Morning view.Adil and his crew raised the anchor at 8.00 to motor a short way to tiny port of Ekincik not far along the coast from the river Dalyan.






Setting off from Ekincik.



Today we would walk to the Lycean and Byzantine ruins at Caunos overlooking the Dalyan river delta, then be picked up by river boat and taken up-river to some thermal mud baths.

Setting off for Caunos.

It was a stunning path that we took, walking around Ekincik bay.






We then walked up over the next promontory through trees and dappled light, stopping to look back over the water towards the boat.

Flowers - not sure which these ones were.

From the top we could see the start of Dalyan Bay, and at times we could see the 5 kilometer sandy turtle beach between the delta and the sea.

Zig-zagging up the hill.








View from the top of the hill.




Our path undulated around the coast, through pine trees which gave us lovely shade, and occasionally through olive groves.

View towards Dalyan.

At one point we spotted a tortoise struggling over some rocks.

Tortoise.








On as section of firebreak.

It was a good walk of about 6-7 miles to the Caunos, and we arrived in time to eat our picnic lunch overlooking the ruins - which are impressive.

Caunos ruins.


They range from a sizeable amphitheatre and 'temple terrace' where greek columns remain, to a church built in Byzantine times.

Dalyan river delta from near the ruins. Byzantine church.


Caunos has remains that date back to the 10th century BC, and is first mentioned in histories of the Persian wars in 546BC. Later it was part of the Eastern Roman Empire which survived the rest of the Roman Empire by many years.

View from the Amphitheatre.

Finally the settlement succumbed to malaria from delta mosquitos in the 15th century. Malaria was only eradicated after the last war, allowing the modern settlement at Dalyan to develop. The Dalyan delta is now a nature reserve.

Huge amphitheatre which used to seat 5000 people...



We wandered among the ruins, climbing to the top of the amphitheatre for the view. This amphitheatre used to seat 5000... Now flowers and olive trees grow among the stones.

On the river boat travelling up the Dalyan river.

Our river boat captain came to find us and we boarded his boat to be driven up the Dalyan river between the reed beds.

Lycean rock tombs.



Over the afternoon we spotted two malachite kingfishers, storks, herons, crested greebs, another diver, and many swallows flitting above the water catching gnats.

Dalyan mosque and waterfront.

We motored past Dalyan town with its colourful waterfront cafes and bars, and looking up at the cliff we could see amazing Lycean rock tombs which Dalyan is famous for - the oldest visible ruins of the Caunus settlement.

The thermally heated hot pool.






The thermally heated mud bath.


Continuing on we reached the mud baths costing 4 lira each (about £1.60). The crystal clear thermal bath was a delight - a really hot soak. The mud bath was an experience - we plastered it all over ourselves!


We didn't have time to let it dry off - and probably the sun wasn't hot enough for that, but our skin felt very smooth later (after a cold shower to clean it off and a further dip in the hot pool!).

Turtle beach.

There was just time for a short stop on Turtle beach where Loggerhead and Leatherback turtles will shortly come to breed - returning after 25 years to the beach where then hatched.

Wendy going to look for turtles...

None were in evidence - possibly it was now too late in the day - though Wendy donned her wetsuit and flippers to go have a quick search for them.

5 k long Turtle beach.

Our river boat now took us back to the gulet at Ekincik where there was time to relax with a drink before dinner (of chicken or aubergine gratin, bulgar, delicous salads, followed by a little cakes in honey).

Full moon over the water.

Despite the beautiful full moon over the water, we headed to bed relatively early - tired from the fullness of our day!




11th April

Sailing further from the coast across Dalaman Bay.The next morning Adil and his crew upped anchor early in the morning and we cruised a fair distance towards Fethiye, passing the more built-up area of the coast around Dalaman.

Captain Annie (from the group) at the wheel!


Annie, one of the group, took the wheel very professionally - and steered us most of the way. (Henceforth known as Captain Annie!)

The wind dies under the cliffs.

For a while we raised the jib - until the breeze off the land died under the next high cliffs.

Reaching the Fethiye promontary.






Sitting on deck.

We had breakfast on the way, then everyone lounged on deck watching the coast go by till we reached our destination - a tiny bay just around the headland into Fethiye Bay.



Dropping the anchor.






View of East Meets West from the water.


Turabi ferried us to the beach in the dinghy from where we set off along a delightful coast path climbing above the water.

Landing in the cove.

Looking down on the boat as the crew have their breakfast.






Following an old Roman mule track into the hills.

Around the headland we turned inland and climbed an old Roman mule track to the ruins of a Byzantine church and settlement at Lydae.

A pause on the way up.


The ancient ruins at Lydae.





Anne below Lydae.


Water cistern.





Shepherds hut.


Beyond lay a fertile bowl in the hills and a small collection of shepherd huts where we visited with a shepherd, his wife, and small daughter.

The shepherd fetches pine honey to sell.

We were treated to sage tea in tiny glasses, and several of us bought honey, spoons made of olive wood, or a set of goat bells.

Continuing on...

Continuing on we now followed a tiny path above a gorge through woodland, emerging into a stunning view from the top of the gorge towards a small cove that faces Dalaman Bay.

Walking above the gorge.

Overlooking the end of the gorge.










Up over the saddle from here we descended into Fethiye Bay with all its islands.



After descending through beautiful pine woodland we reached Cleopatra's Bath where the boat was waiting for us, moored beyond the ruins.

East Meets West moored just beyond the ruins.


There was time for a swim before lunch, exploring these ancient and semi-submerged ruins with masks and snorkels (the boat keeps a supply of them to lend).

Cleopatras Bath ruins.

After a short siesta, Anne offered us another walk around the next headland on another beautiful coast path. We walked through flowers above the turquoise water.

Looking out of the bay.



Setting off on another short walk.




Crossing a beach.



Looking back at Cleopatras Bay.







View towards the islands.

The boat upped anchor behind us and passed close below where we were walking. We waved to the crew and the two women who had stayed on board.





Walking through a carpet of daisies.








We passed through very varied woodland where more than just pine trees grew. At one point in a clearing there was a carpet of daisies.

Walking through woodland and clearings.

Regaining the boat.






Tea on the boat.


We reached the boat again at another small bay and cruised a short distance to our goal - a beautiful cove with small restaurant/bar.

A very still evening.

Small boat fishing.






Chatting before dinner.

Bonfire on the beach.








The bar owner lit a bonfire as it got dark - and we headed over for a drink, enjoying the banter as we sat around the fire.





Later Adil donned his wetsuit and headed off with harpoon and torch to catch calamari. (He caught 2 calamari that night).




12th April

Still water and reflexions.We woke to an idyllic morning... The water in the bay was absolutely still, reflecting the tree-clad slopes.






We could see ancient Lycean rock tombs cut into the hillside above.


Salli cooking pancakes for breakfast.







Reading before breakfast.



Breakfast.




After a lazy start we were ferried a short distance along the shore to the start of today's path.



The boat drops us off.






Stunning views back to the bay.




This was a shorter walk than usual which would take us above the water, looking down through the trees and flowering shrubs to the sea.

Coastal path.












At one point we joined a more open forest track, and as we gained height we were treated to stunning views of the many small islands in Fethiye bay.

Walking along the coast path.Wild gladiolii.










Descending into another cove we regained the boat - which had again motored around to meet us.

Fethiye Bay.








Walking down towards the boat.






Sitting on the pontoon after walking.


After lunch there was now time for a relaxing afternoon, sunbathing, reading, snoozing, chatting, drinking tea...

Sitting around on deck in the afternoon.

Motoring to Gocek.






Motoring to Gocek.


Later we upped anchor and cruised closer to Fethiye, mooring at Gocek which is a rather smart yachting resort.

Tea at a waterfront bar in Gocek.

The boat needed to take on supplies, while the rest of us wandered, shopped, or sat in the sun drinking more tea or coffee!

Old fishing boat in Gocek port.


Re-stocked with fresh provisions, we cruised closer to Fethiye and moored in the lee of Red island.







Passing stacks at the end of a headland.


Rocks in the sea - and snow on the mountains behind.





Wendy jumping in.




There was time for a swim, following which Turabi joked with Jane and Wendy, raising the ladder before they were out of the water.

They retaliated by boarding his dinghy - which proved harder than it looked!

Tourabbi raises the ladder...Wendy & Jane try to board his dinghy...It prooved harder than it looked.
Already exhausted!Jane finally gets in - Wendy is half in!Finally!
Totally exhausted.Now to get onto the boat...Failed 1st attempt.Wendy is determined...And finally succeeds!

We were all helpless with laughter by the time Wendy finally managed to board the gulet!

Relaxing in the evening sun.

Dinner was delicious (chicken, meat balls, or fish that Adil had caught off the side of the boat), followed by strawberries... Adil caught plenty more calamari that night.

The pirates revenge!



Salli our cook laughs in the background.





The pirate theme resumed later when Turabi dressed up to take his revenge!




13th April

Another dazzling start to the day.Another dazling start to the day: watching a fisherman in our bay, and looking across to the snow-covered Taurus mountains beyond Fethiye.

Snow capped mountains in the distance.






Headed for Fethiye.








Breakfast while motoring to Fethiye.

Today was a 'free-day' but practically everyone wanted to do an excursion to the Saklikant Gorge from Fethiye.

Turabi waiting to moor the boat.


We had asked for an early start so that there would be time for more swimming after the excursion.

Passing a mosque in the jeep.



We were picked up by our driver in a jeep, and headed off through Fethiye and past polytunnels and greenhouses towards the mountains.

Snow capped Taurus mountains.

It was fascinating to see more of the interior - the more humble houses of rural families with goats grazing and free-range chickens.



The snow covered Taurus mountains were very impressive.

Women working in the fields.


On the way to the gorge we stopped at Tlos ruins which date from the Lycean period through to Byzantine times.

Tlos Lycean tombs.

Some of us climbed to the tombs to look inside, then higher to the top of the ruins with the most stunning view out over the plain below or across to the mountains.

Climbing to the tombs.


Looking inside a tomb.





Tombs carved out of the rock.


It was easy to see why this had been such an important settlement.

Saklikant gorge.




Continuing on we reached the Saklikant gorge, and were dismayed to see the volume of snow melt flowing down the river.




This gorge has a boardwalk above the water to start with, but at the end of this walkway we realised that we wouldn't be able to go higher.

Too much water in the gorge.

The river was in full flood - with a mass of snowmelt coming down the gorge, supplemented by clear water flowing out of the gorge sides at several points. It was an amazing sight.

Water coming out of the rock.


Even in high summer the water can be up to your thighs as you cross the first section. Today it was simply unthinkable.

Watching the water.

We watched the scene, then returned to where we would have lunch - a delicious meal beside crystal clear flowing water, seated in traditional fashion on floor cushions. There was even a hammock.



Two in a hammock.









After lunch we drove to the sea at Olu Deniz where 3 women swam, while the rest of us drank Turkish tea.

Some paddle, some swim!





Some fun and games on the beach.


Sky gets a bit stormy.





A touch of sunbathing before tea.


On the way back we stopped at a ghost village - Yaka Park - once inhabited by a Greek community which had been expelled back in the 20's. At this point Turkey expelled all Greek communities, and the Greeks did the same to their Turkish communities.

Ruined Greek village of



Walking down the old streets.Inside the ruined church.




When Fethiye later had a massive earthquake, windows, doors, and roofing materials were further removed from the houses to help rebuild Fethiye - leaving an even sadder sight.

Lights at night in Fethiye.

On our return, most of the group took a Turkish bath in Fethiye, and had a scrub and massage.

Leaving Fethiye.


This evening after supper - rather than stay in Fethiye - we motored in the dark to an island bay nearer to our walk for the next day.

An evening journey.

The clouds had gone, the wind was warm, and the sky was full of stars. It was magic to sit out on deck as we cruised through the dark to our destination.

Adil expertly found and moored us in a small cove. We were impressed!




14th April

Another blue sky dayOur last walking day - and although rain had been forecast, there was no sign of it as we motored across the bay to the start of our walk.

The anchor comes up. Breakfast en route.




Motoring across to our walk.






Salih ready to drop the anchor.

Looking back to the boat.






Setting off up from the beach.

This walk was to take us along gravel tracks up from the beach and into the hills overlooking the whole of Fethiye Bay and its islands.

Looking back to the boat.





From various points we could see different places we had walked, and stunning views over the whole area.

View out over sea and islands.

We climbed steadily and started along the ridge, following tracks and firebreaks.

Photographing lavender.






Praying mantis.



We were surrounded by lavender, broom, rock roses and a host of other flowers. At one point Nicky spotted a Praying Mantis as it crossed our path.

Lots of cistus.
Walking along firebreaks.








After lunch in the shade, we continued on - only to find that a new firebreak had completely overun Anne's path with slippery loosely packed soil and stones.

Setting off up the firebreak.



The firebreak had also obscured the original turn off point.

Not sure what these flowers are.


In the end we partially retraced our steps and descended to the valley beside a lovely river with tempting pools and wonderful plane trees.

Two of several tulips we saw. Walking above a river gorge.

On reaching the valley we walked past several small farms.







We saw many goats, including one that had just been born.



A new born kid.






More goats.


Adil came with a minibus to pick us up and to save us a walk back beside a main road.

Reaching the minibus pick up point.



Two women had opted not to walk today. They had stayed on the boat and saw a pair of dolphins!

Yassica Island.

Needless to say we were watching out for those dolphins as we motored the short way to Yassica Island after our walk - but with no luck.

Fishing boat in Yassica Island lagoon.


Yassica Island, however, proved to be a real treat. It is actually a set of islands forming two arms that enclose protected water like a lagoon.

Turabi waiting to moor the stern to the island.

We moored next to 3 fishing boats - a small fishing community - and immediately set about collecting timber for a beach fire.

Looking along the beach to the boat.





A pre-dinner drink.


Reading in the stern.





Hillary fishing.


Jane & Wendy come back from exploring.








A roaring driftwood fire.








Adil and his crew by the fire.

The fire was lit and after dinner we sat around, watching the flames, joking, and talking over the holiday.

A firestick fencing match.




At one point Adil and Wendy fenced with fire sticks above the fire. It was a wonderful last evening to round off the holiday.




15th April

Atmospheric clouds over the mountains.Having arrived late on the first night, we were only due to fly out at 20.30 that night - giving us one whole extra day.

Very still water.




There had been rain in the night and the mountains looked suitably atmospheric. There was almost no wind.

Salih after raising the anchor.
Heading for a bay close to Gocek.







Synchronised swimming.

We spent the morning in another sheltered bay, and in the absence of dolphins we were treated to sychronised swimming by 4 of the group.

Heidi and Anne chatting in the stern.



Sunbathing and reading in the morning.








Motoring to Gocek.




Adil at the helm.



Later we upped anchor and motored across to Gocek port for an early lunch. (Gocek would give us the shortest possibly transfer to Dalaman later).

Arriving in Gocek.

In the afternoon, several women shared a taxi to Fethiye for another, longer massage. They later returned smelling of rose oil and positively glowing!

Gocek.


Other women had planned a lazy afternoon - shopping, exploring Gocek, or lazing on the boat chatting, reading, or snoozing.

Two women heading into Gocek.


Sun and rain - a sudden squall hits the boat.





Rainbow when it comes time to leave.


In the late afternoon the heavens opened and we had a sudden sharp squall. But the sun came out again, producing a rainbow when it was time to leave.

Anne, Adil, Turabi, & Salih.




It was hard to say goodbye to our hosts Anne and Adil, and their crew Salih and Turabi.

Minibus to the airport.


They had looked after us so well. It had been a week to remember - full of laughter, sunshine, delicous food, and wonderful walks.

WalkingWomen will be back!



Women's Feedback

"I just wanted to send a personal thankyou to you for arranging a wonderful holiday and making it such a warm and joyful experience. I had a lot of fun. It was a great pleasure to meet you and I hope we can walk together again before too long." Annie

"Thankyou for a fabulous holiday, really excellent!" Jane

This holiday exceeded my expectations. I enjoyed the boat experience - memories of Swallows and Amazons. The cabin was comfortable, the food delicious and fresh the crew were good company. Diana as always was the model of care and professionalism. She made sure that everything ran as smoothly as possible with all questions answered and requests met. I thought the walks gave a variety of views and environments and the flowers and historical sites were a revelation. All in all, it was a sensory experience that will provide memories for years to come. A Turkish delight. I hope to have a second visit next year'. Hilary

'A wonderful mix of walking and cruising. On one level I would have liked longer walks but the best surprise was that we did more travelling on the boat than I had anticipated. Our host Anne did a great job of preparing a variety of walks of differing lengths, terrain and views. The catering and hospitality of the crew was superb and the facilities on deck were great. Diana was very attentive and always ready to adjust the itinerary to make sure everyone got what they wanted. As with my previous experience in Slovenia, the group of women was great - interesting and funny people who all got along very well indeed'. Karen

'It was terrific. My particular hopes were a) to have a good break from work and b) to explore the Eastern Roman Empire. The holiday fulfilled these hopes and added more besides; good company, beautiful landscapes and a better sense of Turkey across the ages. The accommodation was excellent and the crew were tremendous, which I guess is vital. It was good to have Diana's company and Anne was really special, a true asset for the future'. Jenny


'
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