We seek out WalkingWomen writers to share their experiences of trips or to write about topics of interest to you.Lauren shares here feelings of our first Norway Night Sky winter trip.
There is something truly exhilarating about experiencing a country for the first time. No matter how many books you read, or stories you hear, nothing quite prepares you for that feeling when your feet land on ground previously unknown to you. You may have made plans, but you’re never 100% certain what adventures, experiences or memories you’re going to create.
Norway was exactly that for me: brand new. But not only was the country a great unknown for me, it was my first ever holiday booked with Walking Women.
Lying in my hotel room the night before my flight, having checked my bag at least four times to make sure that my passport hadn’t miraculously jumped out of its sealed compartment and went for a wander, my thoughts turned to just what exactly I had signed up for. I knew it was the Norway Night Sky experience. I knew where I was going, what hotel I was staying in, and thankfully to the setting up of a whatsapp group, a rough idea of how many were going.
What I didn’t realise was how utterly and completely I would lose my heart to both the country, the company and the organisation that helped provide what would be one of the most memorable weeks of my life.
Having travelled solo before, the idea of experiencing a new country or navigating connecting flights and travel didn’t bother me, in fact, that is familiar territory to me. But I had never signed up for a women-only walking trip, from a company who specialises on keeping women as their focus – from the organisers, to the guides, hotel owners and of course, your walking companions. I would be a liar if I said that I wasn’t nervous to meet my new companions, would we hit it off? Was I in for an awkward week of making polite conversation over meals whilst desperately looking for some “me” time? Thankfully, I was completely wrong. From the first initial meeting at the airport, it was offers of coffee and discussions about our backgrounds, what had lead us to walking women, and what in particular drew us to Norway. For many of us, it was the idea of seeing the Northern Lights. Whilst most of us will have, at some point in our life, seen a picture of the Aurora Borealis, the idea of seeing it in person lead to a little extra thrill and for many of us it was sure to be the highlight of the trip.
From the moment you walk into Dalseter Hotel, you are greatly warmly, and I mean that literally.
There is a fire crackling away in the communal gathering room, and Grethe, the owner and proprietor, treats every guest as if they were her own family. No request is too big or too small. She was on hand the entire trip to offer advice, not only on what’s best to see and do, but about life, love, health and happiness. Every day that you come in from an activity you are greeted warmly and asked how your day was-ensuring that you are given all the opportunities you need to see the best of Espedalen. Morris, her handsome dog, is often wandering around the reception hall also offering a warm greeting, and a scratch on the belly if you are feeling generous. Whilst somewhat aged in its appearance, Dalseter hotel holds a kind of charm – its interior and warmth reminding me of holidays with my parents as a child. And the view from my room was nothing short of exceptional. Waking up every day to snow covered mountains made you ready to seize the day and see what adventures were coming next.
Venke, our guide, was warm, vibrant, passionate and driven. You can see how dearly she loves her country and wants to share whatever she can with you, not to mention her general knowledge of the outdoors. She always wanted what was best for you, whether that was a rest day curled up with a book, or climbing up a mountain for the most incredible view, she made you feel completely safe in whatever new adventure you wanted to try. She guided us in snow-shoes through fields of snow that twinkled like diamonds, and through forests where the snow was so thick it was like disappearing into another world – one where silence ruled. Whilst it wasn’t rare to see hare, fox and moose tracks, it was incredibly rare to hear creatures other than ourselves, and Venke made sure that you took the time to seize the moment and enjoy the silence, to connect with the earth again, and with each other. Our time with her included, but was not limited to: snow shoeing, cross country ski lessons, a visit to a moose tower (the only one in Norway) and a public cabin, tucked away in the woods with a bundle of wood waiting for those who want to stop in their tracks and take a moment to heat up and have a drink from their thermos (kindly filled every morning with your drink of choice by the hotel).
For a week we anxiously watched the weather conditions, in-between our daily adventures, praying that we would get a cloudless night in which best to see the Aurora. Ironically, on one of these nights, I received multiple pictures from my own home which had a fantastic showing of the lights dancing across the sky.
This was Hebden Bridge in Yorkshire,England!
Surely we would see them, Norway was infamous for it! Alas, it didn’t happen. But that didn’t put a dampener on the mood for even a single second, and we all gathered as a group to enjoy the entertainment that Grethe had organised for us, including a slideshow of her own pictures of Dalseter and Espedalen throughout the year, and a talk by an astrophotographer – offering a fantastic and new view to our stars and galaxies. For the crafty amongst us- there was even a knitting with yarn session!
Saying goodbye to my companions on the last day felt a little like a civil break up- we all knew it was time to return to normality, to make our way home and continue with our lives, but that didn’t mean there wasn’t some pain in the parting. These women, from all over the world, had made an impact on my time there. Offering friendship, kindness and a kind word when the going got tough. For a week we were each other’s cheerleaders..
It was a reminder that in a world that often tries to play women against each other, there is strength in each of us that we can be reminded of when in the company of other women.
So I never saw the Aurora Borealis on my trip, but the light I got to experience from each new friend made and memory created would have made those Northern Lights pale in comparison, I’m sure. However, having missed them, it does give me an excuse to book the holiday again, and maybe this time, even though my feet will be landing on familiar ground, I’ll still come away with new memories, adventures and friends like I did this one.
Thankyou to Lauren, Norway Night Sky, January 2026
